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THE   ROBERT   E.  COWAN  COLLECTION 

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C.  P.  HUNTINGTON 

JUNE.  18Q7, 

Accession  Ncy'0//6        Class  N* 


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MEXICO: 


ITS  GEOGRAPH Y— I TS  PEOPLE- 


ITS  INSTITUTIONS: 


S  a.  14  I    A      A  N' N  A  . 


WITH 


A   MAP, 


CONTAINING 


THE   RESULT   OF   THE   LATEST  EXPLORATIONS   OF 
FREMONT,  WILKES,  AND  OTHERS. 


B  Y 


THOMAS  J.  FARNHAM, 

Author  of  "  Travels  across  the  Great  Western  Prairies,"  "  Travels  in  California,"  &.c.  &c. 


N  E  W  -  Y  O  R  K  : 
H.    LONG    &    BROTHER, 

32    Ann-Street. 


f>'^f3 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1846, 

BY    THEODORE    FOSTER, 

In  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  for  the  Southern  District  of  New  York. 


;tf//4 


PREFACE. 

This  book  is  intended  to  present  a  concise  view  of  the 
Republic  of  Mexico,  in  its  physical  features  and  moral  aspects. 
Its  geography,  its  agriculture,  its  mines,  its  people,  its  military 
resources,  its  government,  its  church,  and  its  public  men,  are 
treated  in  a  manner  thought  to  be  the  most  concise  and  intelli- 
gible. In  doing  this  the  author  has  consulted  all  the  standard 
authorities  on  the  subject,  and  selecting  therefrom  what  he  has 
deemed  true,  has  added  the  same  to  the  knowledge  which  he 
himself  acquired  during  his  travels  in  that  country.  He  there- 
fore ventures  to  say,  that  no  other  single  work  contains  so  full 
and  so  accurate  an  account  of  Mexico  as  this. 

Of  the  Map  accompanying  the  work,  it  should  be  said  that 
readers  may  he  assured  of  its  general  correctness.  In  regard 
to  those  portions  of  it  which  relate  to  the  Californias,  the  author 
avers  it  to  be  the  only  one  in  existence  which  presents  any- 
thing like  a  full  and  accurate  idea  of  the  geography  of  those 
countries.  The  author's  own  explorations,  together  with  those 
of  the  U.  S.  Exploring  Expedition  under  Captains  Wilkes  and 
Fremont,  are  used  in  its  construction. 

On  the  whole,  it  is  hoped  that  this  little  book  will  meet  the 
desire  of  the  public  for  information  relative  to  the  wide-spread 
and  important  regions  of  which  it  treats. 

No  parts  of  the  earth  are  so  pregnant  with  great  events  as 
these.  Inhabited  by  a  race  incapable  of  self-government ; 
whose  vices  are  so  numerous  and  deleterious  as  to  prevent  any 
considerable  increase  of  their  numbers  ;  whose  union  with  the 
Indian  and  Negro  debase  the  morals  and  decrease,  from  gene- 
ration to  generation,  the  physical  and  mental  powers — Mexico 
must  eventually  be  peopled  and  gov^erned  by  another  race. 
As  the  Indian  and  other  inferior  orders  of  the  human  family 
have  ever  given  place  to  the  Caucasian  branch  ;  so  must,  as  a 
general  law,  all  mixtures  of  that  branch  with  these,  fade 
before  the  greater  intelligence  of  its  pure  blood — so  certainly  as 
the  stars  do  before  the  sun.  How  interesting  then  does  the  fate 
of  Mexicans  become  ;  and  their  country — the  theatre  of  coming 
acts  and  scenes  of  untold  influence  overman — how  important  for 
Americans  to  know  it  well.     The  following  pages  describe  it. 

THE  AUTHOR. 


W' 


MEXICO,  TEXAS  AND  CALIFORNIA, 


CHAPTER  I. 

PHYSICAL      FEATUEES. 


Sources  of  Information. 

Previous  to  the  publications  of  Robertson,  the  Scottish  historian,  little  more 
was  known  of  the  Spanish  American  colonies  than  the  history  of  their  discovery 
and  conquest.  For  two  hundred  years,  with  the  exception  of  UUoas'  travels  and 
discourses,  and  the  narratives  of  Bouger  and  Condamine,  no  satisfactory  intelli- 
gence had  been  communicated  to  the  world  relating  to  any  of  the  principal 
Spanish  settlements.  But  at  the  commencement  of  the  present  century,  with 
the  change  of  system  adopted  by  the  Spanish  government,  the  scene  changed. 
Travellers  were  no  longer  refused  admittance  to  her  colonies.  In  consequence, 
much  additional  information  has  been  given  to  the  public,  bj"-  the  various  publi- 
cations of  Molina,  Alcedo,  Estallo,  Depons,  Antillon,  and,  above  all,  by  Hum- 
boldt, whose  work  yet  remains  our  main  authority  on  the  geography  of  those 
regions.  His  remarks,  however,  embrace  only  that  part  of  Mexico  which  lies 
to  the  south  of  the  24th  deg.  of  N.  latitude.  The  deficiency  was  in  some  mea- 
sure supplied  by  General  Pike,  of  the  American  army,  who,  in  1S05-7,  traversed 
the  country  from  Santa  Fe  to  Chihuahua,  and  thence  east  to  Louisiana. 

Of  late  years  there  has  been  no  want  of  writers.     Of  these  the  most  credible 

and  intelligent  are  the  following,  to  all  of  whom  are  we  more  or  less  indebted 

for  the  succeeding  sketches. 

t 

Waddy  Thompson's  Recollections.     New-York,  1846. 

Gilliam's  Travels  in  Mexico.     Philadelphia,  184.5. 

Life  in  Mexico.     By  Madame  Calderon  de  la  Banca.     2  vols.     Boston,  1843. 

General  Green's  Texan  Expedition.     New- York,  1S45. 

Brantz  Mayer's  Mexico  ;  as  it  Was  and  Is.     New- York,  1842. 

Prescott's  History  of  the  Conquest  of  Mexico.     3  vols.     New-York,  1844. 

Kendall's  Santa  Fe  Expedition.     2  vols.     New-York,  1S44. 

Bernal  Diaz'  History  of  the  Conquest  of  Mexico.     Translated  by  Lockhart.     2  vols. 

Svo.     London,  1844. 
Mexico  in  18-27.     By  A.  G.  Ward.     2  vols.  London,  1828. 
Latrobe's  Rambler  in  Mexico.     2  vols.    London,  1836. 
Bullock's  Six  Months  in  Mexico.     2  vols.     London,  1825. 
Cullen's  History  of  Mexico.     3  vols.     Philadelphia,  1817. 
De  Solis's  History  of  the  Conquest  of  Mexico.     2  vols.  London.     1738. 
Edwards' History  of  Texas.     1vol.     Cincinnati,  1836. 

Alexander  von  Humboldt's  Essay  on  New  Spain.     4  vols  Svo.     London,  1811. 
Kennedy's  Texas ;  its  Geogi-aphy,  &c.     New-York.  1844. 


6  PHYSICAL     FEATITRES. 

Newell's  History  of  the  Revolution  in  Texas.     New- York,  1838. 

Poinsett's  Notes  on  Mexico.     Philadelphia,  1824, 

Farnham's  Travels  in  California.     8vo.     New-York,  1844. 

Forbes'  History  of  California.     1  vol.     London. 

Life  in  California.     1  vol.     New-York,  1846. 

Texas  and  the  Texans.     2  vols.     Philadelphia,  1841. 

Texan  Emigrant.     Cincinnati,  183S. 

Mrs.  HoUey's  Travels  in  Texas.     Baltimore,  1830. 

Boundaries. 

The  Republic  of  Mexico,  as  it  existed  at  the  time  it  assumed  its  independence, 
extended  from  the  14th  to  the  42d  parallel  of  north  latitude.  It  is  separated 
from  Guatemala  by  a  line  drawn  from  the  foot  of  Tehuantepec  in  the  Pacific,  to 
the  bay  of  Honduras.  Its  boundary  line  with  the  United  States  was  understood 
to  commence  at  the  mouth  of  the  Sabine  river,  which  is  about  two  hundred 
miles  west  of  the  Mississippi.  From  this  point  it  ascends  that  stream  to  its 
source  in  the  belt  of  high  land  w^hich  separates  the  valley  of  the  Red  river  from 
Texas ;  thence  north-west  to  the  Red  river  :  it  then  ascends  the  course  of  that 
stream  to  the  100th  deg.  of  W.  longitude ;  and  thence  strikes  off  N.  to  the  Ar- 
kansas, in  the  same  meridian,  up  that  river  to  its  source  ;  from  thence  to  the 
source  of  the  Platte  river,  in  42  deg.  N.  latitude,  and  thence  almost  due  W.  til! 
it  strikes  the  coast  of  the  Pacific,  in  latitude  42  deg.  N.,  which  is  about  the  line 
of  demarkation  between  Massachusetts,  and  Connecticut,  and  Pennsylvania,  and 
New-York. 

Extent  of  Surface. 

At  its  southern  extremity,  Mexico  is  but  130  miles  in  width.  Between  Aca- 
pulco  and  Vera  Cruz  it  is  280  miles.  In  latitude  26  deg.  between  the  mouth  of 
the  Rio  del  Norte  and  the  eastern  shore  of  the  Gulf  of  California,  it  is  725  miles 
in  width  ;  at  latitude  30  deg.  it  is  1200  miles  in  width,  and  in  latitude  33  deg. 
it  is  1400  miles  from  the  eastern  limit  of  Texas  to  the  Pacific  Ocean.  From  the 
irregularity  of  its  form  it  is  impossible  to  determine  with  precision  the  superficial 
contents  of  Mexico ;  but,  according  to  the  best  authorities  it  may  be  considered 
as  occupying  about  1,200,000  square  miles,  or  more  than  six  times  the  area  of 
France.  In  this  estimate  we  do  not  include  the  area  of  Texas,  which  of  itself 
contains  about  500,000  square  miles. 

Natural  Divisions. 

This  immense  country  is  divided  by  nature  into  three  regions,  each  of  which 
is  marked  by  distindi  features.  The  first  comprehends  the  countries  lying  to 
the  east  of  the  isthmus  of  Tehuantepec,  which  is  crossed  by  the  meridian  of 
95  deg.  \V.  Greenwich  ;  we  shall  call  it  the  eastern  region.  The  second  extends 
from  the  meridian  of  95  deg.  in  a  curved  line  to  the  mouth  of  the  Rio  del  Norte 
on  the  east,  (26  deg.  N.  lat.)  and  to  the  most  northern  recess  of  the  Gulf  of  Cali- 
fornia (32  deg.  N.  lat.)  on  the  west ;  it  is  the  central  region,  or  Anahuac.  The 
third,  or  northern  region,  comprehends  the  countries  situated  north  of  a  line 
'^'•awn  from  the  mouth  of  the  Rio  del  Norte  to  that  of  the  Colorado. 

The  Eastern  Region. 

The  eastern  region  comprehends  the  plains  of  Yucatan,  the  plain  of  Tobasco, 
and*'the  isthi;.v'=;  of  Tehuantepec.  The  north-eastern  extremity  of  the  isthmus 
of  Yucatan,  nedi  Cape  Catoche,  is  hardly  more  than  150  miles  from  Cape  St. 
Antonio  on  the  island  of  Cuba.     Through  the  strait  formed  by  these  headlands, 


PHYSICAL     FEATURES.  7 

a  current,  with  considerable  velocity,  sets  in  to  the  north.  The  northern  and 
western  shores  of  the  peninsula  have  no  harbours,  but  only  roadsteads,  which 
during  the  northern  gales  are  very  unsafe,  but  along  the  eastern  shores  there 
are  several  harbours.  The  shores  are  sandy  and  flat.  The  level  country  ex- 
tends to  a  considerable  distance  inland,  whilst  the  centre  of  the  peninsula  is  occu- 
pied by  a  range  of  low  hills.  The  hilly  district  in  the  interior,  as  well  as  the 
flat  country  on  the  northern  coast,  has  a  sandy  soil,  and  no  spring  water  is  found 
from  Cape  Catoche  to  the  mouth  of  the  Rio  de  St.  Francisco,  which  empties  itself 
in  Campeachy  Bay.  Its  vegetation  is  scanty  ;  the  trees  are  stunted,  and  ihe  plants 
of  a  languid  growth,  except  during  the  rainy  season,  (from  May  to  September ;) 
but  as  the  climate,  though  exceedingly  hot,  is  healthy,  it  is  much  better  inhabited 
and  cultivated  than  the  eastern  shores. 

Plain  of  Tobasco. 

The  plain  of  Tobasco  begins  on  the  east  at  some  distance  east  of  Lake  Ter- 
minos,  and  extends  westward  to  Patrida  Rock,  a  moderately  elevated  cape  on 
the  shores  of  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  (98deg.  W.  long.)  This  plain  is  more  than 
250  miles  long,  and  extending  inland  from  50  to  120  miles.  Its  surface  is  a  dead 
level,  and  the  soil  alluvial.  Being  very  fertile,  it  is  covered  with  a  thick  forest 
of  heavy  growth,  but  is  little  cultivated  on  account  of  its  being  subject  to  inunda- 
tions, and  generally  under  water  for  several  months  during  the  rainy  season. 
It  seems  that  this  part  of  Mexico  suffers  as  much  from  the  superabundance  of 
water  as  other  parts  for  the  want  of  it.  To  this  circumstance,  and  the  great  heat 
of  the  summer,  is  the  unhealthinoss  of  this  tract  to  be  attributed.  The  Plain  of 
Tobasco  is  watered  by  a  considerable  river,  the  Rio  de  Tobasco,  and  its  two 
branches,  the  Usumasinta  and  the  Grijolva. 

Isthmus  of  Tekuantepec. 

The  plain  of  Tobasco  occupies  the  northern  portion  and  about  one  half  of  the 
isthmus  of  Tehuantepec.  It  has  a  very  hot,  but  rather  dry  climate,  and  the  soil, 
though  not  distinguished  by  fertility,  is  capable  of  producing  several  tropical 
plants.  It  is  supposed  that  an  easy  line  of  communication  may  be  established 
across  the  isthmus  of  Tehuantepec  between  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  and  the  Pacific, 
as  the  two  seas  are  only  130  miles  distant,  and  the  plains  adjacent  are  watered 
by  navigable  rivers.     This  was  a  favourite  idea  with  Santa  Anna. 

AnaJiuac. 

The  central  region  of  Mexico,  commonly  called  Anahuac,  exhibits  great  variety 
in  its  natural  features.  The  eastern  coast,  which  is  low  and  sandy,  runs  on  in  a 
continuous  line  virithout  being  broken  by  inlets  or  bays  ;  and  consequently  it 
contains  no  harbours  except  those  formed  by  the  mouth  of  the  river ;  and  even 
these  are  only  unsafe  roadsteads,  as  the  rivers  of  this  coast,  with  the  exception  of 
the  Rio  Alvarado,  have  only  water  enough  in  the  rainy  season.  North  of  22 
deg.  several  rivers  of  considerable  size  fall  into  the  sea,  but  except  at  their  mouths, 
the  coast  cannot  be  approached  by  vessels,  as  it  is  lined  by  long,  low  and  narrow 
islands,  which  lie  parallel  to,  and  from  two  to  six  miles  from  it.  The  channels 
by  which  these  islands  are  separated  are  too  shallow  to  admit  even  boats.  The 
country  adjacent  to  the  shores,  and  from  three  to  ten  miles  inland,  is  very  low, 
but  is  defended  from  the  sea  by  sand  hills  rising  from  50  to  200  feet  high.  The 
soil  is  sandy  and  quite  destitute  of  vegetation.  At  the  back  of  this  low  sandy 
tract  the  country  rises  gradually  to  the  foot  of  an  extremely  steep  ascent,  which 
constitutes  the  eastern  ridge  of  the  extensive  table-land  farther  west.     The  coua- 


8  PHYSICAL     FEATURES. 

try  which  lies  between  the  shores  and  the  steep  ascent  varies  in  width.  At  Vera 
Cruz  it  is  onl}''  60  miles  wide.  Farther  north  it  widens  till  it  becomes  nearly 
180  miles  across.  This  tract  is  comprehended  in  what  is  called  the  "  hot  coun- 
tries." The  seasons  are  divided  into  the  winter,  or  the  season  of  the  north 
winds,  and  the  summer,  or  season  of  the  breezes.  The  former  lasts  from  Octo- 
ber to  April,  during  which  time  the  north  winds  are  prevalent,  and  frequently 
blow  with  the  force  of  a  hurricane,  sometimes  for  days  together  :  they  are  the 
terror  of  navigators  on  these  shores.  During  these  periods  the  coast  is  healthy 
and  the  vomito  or  yellow  fever  ceases.  The  mean  heat  of  this  season  is  71  deg. 
of  Fahrenheit,  but  whilst  the  north  winds  are  blowing,  the  thermometer  some- 
times descends  to  60  deg.  Rain  is  not  rare  during  this  season,  but  the  showers 
are  only  of  short  duration.  During  the  summer  the  heat  is  great ;  the  mean 
temperature  is  about  81  deg.  The  rains  are  not  heavy  before  June,  but  in  thai 
month  they  descend  in  torrents  nearly  every  day  for  several  hours.  In  July 
alone  about  fifteen  inches  of  rain  fall,  or  two-thirds  of  the  mean  annual  quantity 
at  London. 

Ascent  to  the  Table- Lands. 

The  steep  ascent  which  bounds  this  tract  on  the  west  rises  in  some  places  in 
terraces  which  lie  between  the  declivities,  and  in  such  parts  the  ascent  occupies 
a  considerable  space ;  but  in  other  parts  it  rises  from  5000  to  6000  feet  in  a  dis- 
tance generally  not  exceeding  ten  miles  in  width,  and  frequently  much  less.  The 
acclivity  is  so  steep,  that  in  the  whole  line  there  are  only  two  places  where  it  is 
practicable  for  carriages,  namely  at  Xalapa,  near  Vera  Cruz,  and  at  Saltillo, 
west  of  Monterey,  though  its  whole  length  does  not  fall  short  of  600  miles. 

Table-Lands. 

The  physical  feature  of  Mexico  is  a  high  table-land,  bearing  some  aspect  in 
this  respect  to  the  southern  peninsula  of  India.  These  immense  plains,  situated 
at  an  elevation  of  from  6000  to  8000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  ocean,  have  oc- 
casional inequalities  of  surface  ;  lofty  mountains  and  luxuriant  valleys  diversify 
the  appearance  of  the  country  in  some  parts  ;  but  in  general  a  continuous  level, 
as  smooth  almost  as  the  ocean,  extends  for  upwards  of  1500  miles  through  the 
interior  of  Mexico,  and  to  the  territory  of  the  United  States.  Hence,  while  the 
communication  between  the  city  of  Mexico  and  the  eastern  and  western  sea- 
coasts  is  extremely  difficult,  and  on  some  portions  of  the  routes  can  be  carried 
on  only  by  mules,  there  is  nothing  to  prevent  wheel-carriages  from  running  from 
the  capital  to  Santa  Fe,  and  thence  to  St.  Louis,  or  other  places  on  the  Mis- 
sissippi. 

On  the  side  of  the  Pacific,  the  table-land  of  Anahuac  approaches  very  near 
the  sea.  In  some  places  the  high  mountain  masses  advance  to  the  very  shores  ; 
in  others,  a  narrow  level  tract  intervenes ;  but  the  table  land  is  divided  from  the 
Gulf  of  Mexico  by  a  low  plain,  called  the  Plain  of  Cuetlachtlan,  which  extends 
about  100  miles  inland. 

The  surface  of  the  table-land  of  Anahuac,  which  is  reached  from  the  Plain  of 
Cuetlachtlan  by  a  very  rapid  ascent,  consists  of  a  considerable  number  of  plains 
with  a  level  or  undulating  surface.  These  plains  are  generally  of  considerable 
extent,  measuring  in  length  from  40  to  200  miles  and  more ;  and  in  width  from 
20  to  100  miles.  These  plains  are  separated  from  each  other  by  ranges  of 
hills,  which  rise  to  500  or  600  feet  above  their  level ;  but  the  plains  themselves 
vary  in  their  elevation;  the  most  extensive  being  from  5000  to  9000  feet 
above  the  sea-level,  whilst  some  smaller  ones  are  much  lower. 


s 


RIVERS,     LAKES,     BAYS     AND     GULFS.  9 

That  portion  of  the  table-land  which  spreads  from  the  Plains  of  Tlascala  and 
Mexico,  souih  and  south-east,  and  which,  as  far  as  the  isthmus  of  Tehuaritepec, 
is  called  the  table-land  of  Mixtecapan,  appears  not  to  rise  more  than  5,000  feet 
on  an  average.  'J'owards  the  Pacific,  however,  it  is  indented  by  wide  valleys 
which  extend  nearly  north  and  south,  and  open  towards  the  sea;  but  even  these 
valleys  are  of  considerable  height.  The  town  of  Oaxaca,  which  lies  in  the 
principal  valley,  is  4,S00  feet  above  the  sea,  and  the  adjacent  higher  ground,  on 
which  the  ruins  of  the  Palace  of  Mitla  arc  found,  is  5,300  feet  high.  But  as  we 
proceed  along  the  s^a  to  the  N.  W.  and  approach  the  harbour  of  Acapuico,  the 
table-land  is  broken  by  deep  valleys,  which  extend  east  and  west.  The  level 
of  these  valleys  declines  as  they  approach  the  Pacific,  and  at  the  same  time 
they  become  narrower.  The  road  from  Mexico  to  Acapuico  passes  through 
four  of  them.  The  valley  of  Istla,  nearest  to  the  plain  of  Tenochiiilan,  is  3,226 
feet,  the  valley  of  Mescala  1,696  feet,  that  of  Papagallo  627,  and  ihat  of  Pere- 
grino,  nearest  the  Pacific,  is  525  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 

The  Plain  of  ChUiudhud,  which  extends  along  ihe  eastern  base  of  the  Sierra 
Madre,  may  be  considered  as  a  continuation  of  the  table-land  of  San  Louis  de 
Potosi,  not  being  separated  from  it  by  a  range  of  mountains  or  any  other  marked 
boundary-line,  except  that  the  northern  part  of  the  table-land  of  Potosi  (between 
23o  and  24o  N.  lat.)  gradually  assumes  that  aspect  of  sterility  which  character- 
ises the  Plain  of  Chihuahua.  This  plain  extends  from  south-south-east  to 
north-north-west  more  than  600  miles,  and  is  terminated  on  the  north  by  a  line 
drawn  from  the  Presidio  de  S.  Bernardino  to  the  Paso  del  Norte,  near  the  paral- 
lel of  32o.  Its  width  varies  from  150  to  200  miles.  At  its  southern  extremity, 
where  it  is  contiguous  to  the  table-land  of  San  Louis  de  Potosi,  it  may  be  nearly 
6,000  feet  above  the  sea-level;  but  it  lowers  towards  the  north.  This  immense 
tract  of  country  may  be  compared  with  some  of  the  steppes  of  Asia.  We  do  not 
know  its  elevation  above  the  sea,  but  Humboldt  estimates  that  of  the  country 
along  the  banks  of  the  Rio  del  Norte  at  about  2,000  feet,  an  estimate  which  ap- 
pears rather  too  low  than  too  high.  But  towards  the  south  the  country  certainly 
rises  to  a  much  greater  height,  a  fact  which  is  shown  by  the  course  of  the  riv- 
ers, which  here  run  in  the  opposite  direction  to  those  of  Sonora — namely,  from 
south  to  north.  The  surface  of  this  plain  is  nearly  level.  The  soil  is  strongly 
impregnated  with  nitre,  muriate  of  soda,  and  carbonate  of  potash.  It  is  entirely 
destitute  of  trees,  except  along  the  water-courses,  which  are  skirted  by  poplars. 
In  the  rainy  season  it  is  covered  with  grass,  which  affords  pasture  for  sheep  ;  in 
the  dry  season  it  is  without  verdure,  except  along  the  rivers.  Some  portions 
are  covered  with  small  sharp  stones.  In  those  districts  which  are  at  some  dis- 
tance from  the  rivers,  there  are  numerous  dry  salt-lakes,  from  which  large  quan- 
tities of  salt  are  collected  by  the  inhabitants.  These  salt  lakes  render  the  coun- 
try excessively  unhealthy;  for  whenever  there  is  any  wind,  the  air  is  filled  with 
saline  particles  and  dust,  which  oppress  respiration  and  cause  numerous  diseases. 
The  rivers,  along  which  alone  the  cultivated  tracts  occur,  run  in  beds  several 
feet  under  the  surface  of  the  plain,  and  all  terminate  (with  the  exception  of  the 
Rio  Conchos)  in  lakes  without  outlets,  like  those  in  the  steppes  of  Asia.  The 
most  remarkable  are  the  Rio  de  las  Casas  Grandes,  the  Conchos,  and  the  Rio 
Grande  of  the  Plain. 

Mountains. 

The  steep  ascent  above  described  constitutes  the  outer  edge  of  the  elevated  plains 
of  Anahuac,  which  extends  westward  to  a  great  distance.  The  edge  itself  is 
lined  by  aco:i:inuous  series  of  hills,  rising  in  general  only  to  a  moderate  eleva- 
tion above  th  ■  table-lands  ;  but  some  of  them  attain  a  great  height,  as  the  Coffre 
de  Perote,  near  the  road  leading  from  Vera  Cruz  to  Me-^ico,  which  is  13,415  feet 


10  RIVERS,     LAKES,     BAYS     AND     GULFS. 

above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  the  peak  of  Origida,  virhich  attains  a  height  of 
17,373  feet. 

It  is  in  strict  geography  improper  to  denominate  the  mountains  of  Mexico  a 
prolongation  of  the  Andine  chain  of  South  America.  So  far  is  this  from  being 
the  case,  that  long  before  the  Andes  have  reached  the  isthmus  of  Panama,  they 
have  dwindled  into  inconsiderable  hillocks  ;  and  in  Verragua,  the  Sierra  de  Can- 
tagua  runs  in  an  opposite  direction  to  the  Andes,  as  if  to  interrupt  their  exten- 
sion into  North  America.  In  the  Mexican  province  of  Oaxaca,  the  chain  occu- 
pies the  centre  of  the  isthmus.  On  this  part  of  the  chain  there  is  a  point  so 
elevated  that  both  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  are  visible  from  it.  This  would  indi- 
cate an  elevation  of  7700  feet  above  the  sea.  From  eighteen  and  a  half  to  twenty- 
one  degrees  the  Cordillera  stretches  from  north  to  south.  Of  this  chain  "  the 
mountain  of  smoke,"  a  volcano  covered  with  perpetual  snow,  is  one  of  the  most 
elevated  summits  in  all  Mexico.  Humboldt  estimates  it  to  be  17,735  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  sea.  There  are  many  other  peaks  of  nearly  an  equal  altitude. 
The  mean  elevation  of  the  whole  range,  of  which  these  summits  make  a  part,  is 
9842  feet  of  absolute  elevation.  The  "  star  mountain,"  which  is  the  highest 
peak  in  all  Mexico,  and  which  is  visible  from  Vera  Cruz,  is  17,876  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  sea,  and  is  the  first  part  of  the  continent  which  is  visible  to  navi- 
gators. From  the  north-eastern  part  of  the  intendency  of  Mexico,  the  chain 
assumes  the  name  of  Sierra  Madre,  and  then  leaving  the  eastern  quarter,  it  runs 
north-west  to  Guanaxuato.  North  of  this  city  it  becomes  of  an  extraordinary 
breadth,  dividing  immediately  into  three  branches,  of  which  the  most  eastern 
runs  in  the  direction  of  the  coast,  and  is  lost  in  the  province  of  New  Leon.  The 
western  branch  passes  to  the  north  as  far  as  the  source  of  the  Rio  Gila.  From 
its  western  side  many  lateral  chains  stretch  south-west  to  the  Gulf  of  California. 
The  middle  branch  of  the  Sierra  Madre,  which  may  be  viewed  as  the  central 
chain  of  the  Mexican  Alps,  stretches  northwardly  into  the  province  of  New- 
Mexico,  and  finally  terminates  in  latitude  41  deg.,  where  it  divides  the  waters 
which  flow  into  the  Pacific  from  those  which  flow  into  the  Atlantic.  From  this 
other  ranges  of  mountains  meet  from  different  directions,  and  again  spread  out 
northwardly,  under  the  appellation  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  No  mountain 
ridge  connects  the  Sierra  Madre  with  the  Rocky  Mountains. 


CHAPTER  II. 

RIVERS,  LAKES,  BAYS  AND  GULFS. 

Considering  the  extent  of  Mexico,  its  large  rivers  are  very  few.  The  table 
land  of  Anahuac  is  nearly  destitute  of  rivers  on  account  of  the  dryness  of  the 
atmosphere  and  the  aridity  of  the  soil.  The  few  streams  are  only  navigable  for 
a  short  distance  from  the  sea.  They  descend  from  great  heights,  in  a  compar- 
atively short  course,  and  are  very  shallow. 

Rio  Bravo,  or  Rio  Grande  del  Norte. 

This,  the  chief  river  in  Mexico,  rises  in  lat.  40  d.  12  m.  N.,  and  111  d.  30  m. 
W.  long.,  immediately  west  of  the  sources  of  the  Platte  and  Arkansas.  It  has 
several  large  tributaries.  For  two  hundred  miles  above  Santa  Fe,  it  runs  through 
a  valley  bounded  on  both  sides  by  snowy  mountains.  The  whole  course  of  the . 
Rio  del  Norte  is  at  least  2000  miles,  540  of  which  are  to  the  N.  W.  of  Santa  Fe. 
It  is  not  navigable  in  any  part  of  its  course,  owing  to  sand-bars  in  the  flat  country, 


RIVERS,  LAKES,  BAYS  AND  GULFS.  11 

and  to  mountains  in  the  upper  part  of  its  course.  Small  boats  can  ascend  only 
about  200  miles  from  the  Gulf.  There  is  a  bar  at  its  mouth  with  only  seven 
feel  of  wiUer.     Small  schooners,  however,  can  ascend  to  Malamoras. 

The  author  of  "  Commerce  of  the  Prairies,"  thus  speaks  of  this  river : — 
"  The  famous  Rio  del  Norte  is  so  shallow  for  the  most  part  of  the  year,  that 
Indian  canoes  can  scarcely  float  in  it.  Its  navigation  is  also  obstructed  by  fre- 
quent shoals  and  rippling  sections,  for  a  distance  of  more  than  a  thousand  miles 
below  Santa  Fe.  Notwithstanding  the  numerous  tributary  streams  which  would 
be  supposed  to  pour  their  contents  into  the  Rio  del  Norte,  very  few  reach  their 
destination  before  they  are  completely  exhausted.  The  most  considerable,  Rio 
Puerco,  although  at  least  a  thousand  miles  in  length,  is  dry  at  its  mouth  for  a 
portion  of  the  year.  It  is,  then,  no  wonder  that  this  '  Great  River  of  the  North ' 
decreases  in  volume  of  water  as  it  descends.  In  fact,  above  the  region  of  tide- 
water, it  is  almost  everywhere  fordable  during  most  of  the  year.  Its  banks  are 
generally  very  low,  and  yet,  owing  to  the  disproportionate  width  of  the  chan- 
nel, (which  is  generally  350  yards,)  it  is  not  subject  to  inundations.  Its  only 
rises  are  those  of  the  annual  freshets,  caused  by  the  melting  of  the  snows  in  the 
mountains." 

Rio  Sacramento. 

This  river  empties  into  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco,  in  Upper  California.  One 
of  its  principal  branches  rises  in  the  Sierra  Nevada,  about  300  miles  N.  E.  from 
the  Bay ;  another  large  branch  has  its  source  in  the  same  range,  about  200  miles 
N.  of  the  Bay. 

The  Colorado. 

This  river  empties  into  the  Gulf  of  California.  It  is  made  up  of  several  small  ones. 
It  is  a  little  above  600  miles  in  length.  It  receives  the  appellation  of  Colorado  or 
coloured  river,  from  its  waters  being  coloured  by  the  rains  falling  on  a  soil  of 
red  clay,  through  which  it  passes.  It  is  a  deep  and  copious  stream,  capable  of 
being  navigated  by  square-rigged  vessels,  for  but  about  30  miles  Through- 
out its  whole  course,  its  banks  are  said  to  be  entirely  destitute  of  timber  ;  and 
it  is  doubtless  true  that  for  300  miles  there  is  not  a  tree  growing  near  it  of  ten 
inches  in  diameter. 

Rio  Grande — called  also  the  Rio  Santiago. 

This  is  one  of  the  most  considerable  rivers  in  Mexico.  It  rises  to  the  east  of 
the  volcano  of  Toluca,  and  in  the  first  part  of  its  course  is  called  Rio  Lerena. 
It  passes  through  the  lake  of  Chapala,  and  pursues  a  rapid  course  to  the  Pacific, 
forming  an  Estuary  at  its  mouth  in  which  there  are  several  islands  ;  on  its  south- 
ern side  is  the  well  known  port  of  San  Bias.  The  whole  length  of  the  river  is 
rising  500  miles. 

Rio  Panuco. 

This  river  may  be  considered  as  rising  in  the  lake  of  Zumpaugo,  adjacent  to 
the  city  of  Mexico.  In  its  upper  course  it  is  so  very  swift,  and  so  frequently  in- 
terrupted by  shoals  and  rapids,  that  it  is  said  to  be  navigable  for  boats  only  in  a  few 
places.  In  the  upper  part  it  is  called  Tula.  It  becomes  navigable,  however, 
about  170  miles  from  its  mouth.  Ten  miles  lower  down  it  is  joined  by  the  Rio 
Lanioin,  which  flows  from  the  west,  and  is  then  called  the  Rio  Panuco.  Vessels 
drawing  not  more  than  twelve  feet  of  water  may  go  up  to  Panuco,  eighty  milea 


12  CIVIL     DIVISIONS,     CITIES,     TOWNS,     ETC. 

from  its  mouth.  It  enters  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  at  Tampico,  after  a  winding 
course  of  ahout  400  miles.  The  port  of  Tampico  is  formed  by  its  mouth,  but  is 
crossed  by  a  bar,  which  has  generally  not  more  than  twelve  feet  of  water. 

The  other  rivers  in  Mexico  are  not  of  much  importance.     None  of  them  are 
navigable  for  any  considerable  distance. 


The  lakes  are  very  numerous,  and  occupy  a  considerable  portion  of  the  plains  ; 
one  tenth  of  the  valley  of  Mexico  is  covered  by  lakes.  The  largest  lake  is  that 
of  Chapala,  which  is  traversed  by  the  Rio  Santiago.  It  is  about  90  miles  long, 
and  from  12  to  IS  miles  wide. 

BAYS     AND     GULFS. 

The  chief  Bays  or  Gulfs  are  those  of  Tehuantepec,  and  the  large  inland  gulf 
of  California.  The  first  lies  on  the  Pacific,  in  16  d.  N.  lat.,  and  is  125  miles 
across.  The  Gulf  of  California  is  a  very  large  inland  sea,  stretching  880  miles 
from  S.  E.  to  N.  W.  The  entrance  to  this  Gulf,  between  Cape  St.  Lucas,  the 
S.  E.  point  of  California,  and  the  mouth  of  the  El  Ruso  on  the  eastward,  is  200 
miles  across  ;  and  from  thence  as  far  north  as  lat.  27  d.,  the  average  breadth  is 
from  120  to  150  miles  ;  from  thence  to  the  head  it  seldom  exceeds  60  miles. 
The  printed  maps  of  this  Gulf  are  all  sadly  erroneous. 

Gulf  of  Mexico. 

This  Gulf  extends  between  the  18th  and  30th  parallels  of  north  latitude,  and 
is  nearly  of  a  circular  form,  but  somewhat  elongated  from  east  to  west.  In  the 
latter  direction  it  is  1,150  miles  long;  in  the  transverse  direction  it  is  about  930. 
It  opens  in  a  S.  E.  direction,  between  the  peninsula  of  Yucatan  and  Florida, 
or  between  the  Capes  of  Catoche  and  Sable,  which  are  about  465  miles  distant 
from  each  other.  The  island  of  Cuba  divides  this  opening  into  two  channels; 
the  one  to  the  S.  W.  communicating  with  the  Sea  of  the  Antilles,  and  the  other 
to  the  N.  E.  with  the  Atlantic,  by  means  of  the  straits  of  the  Bahamas  or  Flor- 
ida. South  from  the  mouth  of  the  Rio  del  Norte  round  about  to  the  mouth  of 
the  Rio  Alvarado,  an  extent  of  600  miles,  the  Gulf  does  not  present  a  single 
good  port,  as  Vera  Cruz  is  merely  a  bad  anchorage  amidst  shallows.  The  Mexi- 
can coast  may  be  considered  as  a  sort  of  dyke,  against  which,  the  waves,  con- 
tinually agitated  by  the  trade  winds  blowing  from  E.  to  W.,  throw  up  the  sands 
carried  by  the  violent  motion.  The  rivers  descending  from  the  Sierra  Madre  have 
also  contributed  to  increase  these  sands,  and  the  land  is  gaining  on  the  sea.  No 
vessel  drawing  more  than  12  1-2  inches  of  water  can  pass  over  these  sand-bars 
without  danger  of  getting  aground.  In  the  middle  of  the  Gulf,  the  winds  blow  regu- 
larly from  the  N.  E.,  but  they  vary  considerably  on  approaching  the  shore. 


CHAPTER  III. 

CIVIL   DIVISIONS,    CITIES,    TOWNS,    ETC. 

The  territory  of  Mexico  is  made  up  of  nineteen  states,  and  the  territories  of 
New  Mexico,  California,  Colima  and  Tlascala. 


CIVIL     DIVISIONS,     CITIES,     TOWNS,     ETC.  13 

I. — Yucatan.* 

This  is  the  most  easterly  state  of  Mexico.  The  isthmus  which  connects  it 
with  the  continent  of  North  America,  is  but  120  miles  wide.  Its  population  is 
about  500,000.  The  soil  is  very  fertile,  and  when  under  proper  cultivation, 
produces  great  crops  of  cotton,  indigo,  tobacco,  pepper,  sugar  cane,  Indian  corn, 
and  other  kinds  of  grain.  The  scarcity  of  water  in  the  central  parts  of  the 
state  renders  the  crops  variable  ;  and  years  occur  in  which  the  poorer  classes 
are  driven  to  seek  subsistence  on  roots.  Cattle,  fowls  and  bees  are  very  nume- 
rous; wax  and  honey  plentiful;  but  there  are  no  mines.  The  forests  abound 
with  wild  beasts.     The  principal  article  of  commerce  is  logwood. 

Merida,  the  capital,  is  about  twenty-four  miles  from  the  sea,  on  an  arid  plain. 
It  carries  on  some  commerce  in  agricultural  produce,  by  means  of  the  small 
harbour  of  Sisal,  which  has  but  little  depth  of  water.     Population,  32,000. 

Campeche,  on  the  bay  of  the  same  name,  has  a  harbour,  but  which  is  not 
safe.  It  exports  a  considerable  quantity  of  wax  and  Campeche  wood.  Popula- 
tion, 19,000. 

II. —  Tabasco. 

The  State  of  Tobasco  extends  from  the  Rio  Pacaitun  to  the  Rio  Huasacualco, 
more  than  200  miles  along  the  shore,  and  about  50  or  60  miles  inland.  The 
surface  is  level,  and  mostly  subject  to  inundations. 

Victoria,  or  Tabasco,  the  capital,  is  built  on  an  island  at  the  mouth  of  the  Rio 
Tabasco.  It  has  a  harbour,  and  carries  on  some  trade  in  the  produce  of  the  coun- 
try.    The  population  is  4000. 

III. — Chiapa. 

The  State  of  Chiapa,  until  the  year  1825,  belonged  to  Guatemala  ;  in  that 
year  it  joined  the  confederation  of  the  States  of  Mexico.  Chiapa  is  separated 
from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  by  Tabasco.  The  population  consists  principally  of 
Indians,  who  speak  five  different  languages. 

Ciudad  de  las  Casas  (formerly  Ciudad  Real,)  the  capital,  is  situated  in  a  fer- 
tile valley :  it  has  a  university,  and  3S00  inhabitants. 

At  the  north-eastern  angle  of  this  state,  near  the  boundary  of  Yucatan  and 
Tabasco,  in  a  thick  forest,  are  ruins,  apparently  those  of  a  large  city.  The 
character  of  the  building,  as  well  as  of  the  ornaments,  differs  greatly  from  that 
of  all  other  ancient  edifices  in  America.  These  remains  are  called  the  ruins  of 
Palenque,  from  a  neighbouring  village  of  that  name.  It  was  here  that  Messrs. 
Stephens  and  Catherwood  made  most  of  their  ingenious  resefirches. 

IV. — Oaxaca.  . 

The  State  of  Oaxaca  comprehends  the  southern  portion  of  the  isthmus  of  \ 
Tehuantepec  and  the  table-land  of  Mixtecapan  :  it  extends  along  the  Pacific,  / 
with  a  coast  line  of  more  than  360  miles.  It  is  one  of  the  best  cultivated  and  / 
most  populous  parts  of  Mexico,  and  produces,  in  addition  to  cochineal,  great  [ 
quantities  of  indigo  and  cotton.     Silk  is  got  from  a  species  of  wild  silk-worm.        \ 

Oaxaca,  the  capital,  situated  in  a  fertile  valley,  4,800  feet  above  the  sea,  is     ' 
well  built,  and  contains  some  fine  squares  and  public  edifices ;    it  has  also  an 
aqueduct. 

*  For  an  account  of  the  Political  revolution  that  has  lately  occurred  in  Yucatan,  see  Ap- 
pendix. * 


^^  CIVIL     DIVISIONS,     CITIES,    TOWNS,     ETC. 

Tehuantepec,  situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  Rio  Chimalapa,  has  a  harhour,  the 
entrance  of  which  is  very  dangerous,  and  not  deep  enough  for  large  vessels. 
The  population  is  7,000  persons.     There  are  remains  of  ancient  buildings  in 
j^  several  parts  of  this  state. 

V. — Vera  Cruz. 

The  State  of  Vera  Cruz  comprehends  a  small  portion  of  the  isthmus  of  Tehu- 
antepec, and  the  greater  part  of  the  plain  of  Cuetlachtlan,  with  the  eastern 
declivity  of  the  table-land  of  Anahuac ;  a  small  portion  of  the  table-land,  and 
also  the  mountains  of  Orizava  and  Cofre  de  Perote  belong  to  it. 

Vera  Cruz  is  the  principal  port  in  Mexico.  It  lies  on  a  low  sandy  shore,  inter- 
sected with  marshes  which  extend  for  miles  along  the  coast.  The  port  is,  prop- 
erly speaking,  an  open  road-stead,  protected  only  by  a  shoal,  and  is  very  dan- 
gerous in  winter,  when  the  north  winds  blow.  It  is  very  small,  and  can  contain 
but  about  30  vessels. 

The  little  island  of  San  Juan  de  Ulloa,  which  is  entirely  covered  with  the 
fortress,  is  some  five  or  six  hundred  yards  from  the  mole  or  quay  at  Vera  Cruz, 
between  which  points  all  the  commercial  shipping  enters.  A  very  narrow  chan- 
nel affords  the  only  passage  for  vessels  of  war,  which  must  of  necessity  pass 
immediately  under  the  guns  of  the  fort.  The  fortress  of  San  Juan  de  Ulloa  has 
always  been  looked  upon  as  one  of  the  strongest  in  the  world.  When  it  was 
blown  up,  in  1839,  by  the  French,  the  armament  was  in  a  most  wretched  condi- 
tion, and  as  to  scientific  engineers  and  artillerists,  there  were  none.  Even  then 
it  would  have  been  no  holiday  affair  had  it  not  been  for  the  accidental  explosion 
of  the  magazine. 

But  Vera  Cruz  is  much  more  effectually  protected  than  by  all  her  fortifica- 
tions, by  the  northers  and  vomito  (yellow  fever.)  The  former  have  been  the 
terror  of  all  seamen  since  the  discovery  of  the  country.  The  latter  prevails  on 
all  the  Atlantic  coast  of  Mexico  during  the  whole  year,  and  with  the  greatest 
malignancy  for  two  thirds  of  the  year  ;  and  it  so  happens  that  the  few  months 
of  comparative  exemption  from  the  ravages  of  the  yellow  fever,  are  precisely 
those  when  the  northers  prevail  with  the  most  destructive  violence.  To  illus- 
trate the  ferocity  of  these  northers,  we  quote  the  following  incident  from  a  recent 
traveller.  "  Soon  after  my  arrival,"  says  he,  "  I  gave  to  a  servant  some  clothing 
to  be  washed  ;  but  he  soon  returned  with  my  bundle  and  informed  me  that  the 
washer-woman  refused  to  take  the  clothes  unless  I  would  release  her  from  all 
responsibility  if  a  norther  should  carry  them  away  :  whereupon  assuming  the 
hazard,  on  the  following  c^ay,  upon  short  notice,  the  winds  came  and  scattered 
my  clothing  like  kites  in'  the  air,  and  I  never  saw  it  more."  The  inhabitants, 
on  the  first  coming  of  the  storm,  are  compelled  immediately  to  tightly  bar  their 
doors  and  windows,  stopping  up  the  key-holes  and  every  other  crevice,  to  pre- 
vent light  articles  in  the  house  from  being  disturbed,  as  also  their  eyes  from 
being  put  out  by  the  sand. 

The  health  of  Vera  Cruz  is  perhaps  worse  than  that  of  any  other  place  on  the 
habitable  globe,  and  it  is  calculated  that  one-fifth  of  its  inhabitants  annually  per- 
ish. The  sickness  of  Vera  Cruz  is  attributed  to  the  increased  intensity  of  the 
sun's  heat,  reflected  from  the  high  white  sand-hills  that  overlook  the  town,  as 
also  from  the  poisonous  vapour  which  arises  from  the  stagnant  waters  of  the 
lakes  and  swamps  vi'hich  surround  the  city.  The  venomous  insects  that  infest 
that  hot  region,  aid  likewise  in  no  small  degree,  by  never  leaving  the  inhabitants 
to  repose,  and  constantly  causing  feverish  excitement  and  irritation  to  promote 
disease. 

The  city  of  Vera  Cruz  is  enclosed  by  a  continued  wall  of  coral-stone  and 
brick.     The  streets  are  paved  with  stone  shipped  from  Quincy,  Mass.     The 


CIVIL     DIVISIONS,     CITIES,     TOWNS,     ETC.  15 

town  is  laid  off  in  squares,  and  the  houses  are  a  solid  mass  of  buildings  covering 
the  whole  squares.  Many  of  the  houses  are  large,  some  three  stories  high,  built 
in  the  old  Spanish  or  Moorish  styles,  and  generally  enclosing  a  square  court 
with  covered  galleries.  They  have  flat  roofs,  glass  windows,  and  are  well 
adapted  to  the  climate.  The  whole  town,  as  well  as  the  castle,  is  built  of  coral, 
and  the  lime  that  forms  the  cement,  is  of  the  same  material.  There  is  one 
tolerably  good  square,  of  which  the  government-house  forms  one  side  and  the 
principal  church  the  other.  The  foot-paths  are  frequently  under  piazzas,  a  great 
accommodation  to  travellers,  protecting  them  from  the  sultry  heat  of  the  sun  and 
the  heavy  rains,  which  descend  in  torrents  during  the  wet  season.  Sixteen  cupolas 
are  counted  from  the  sea,  but  only  six  churches  are  now  in  use.  Indeed,  nearly 
all  the  churches,  nunneries  and  monasteries  have  been  abandoned  since  the  place 
has  been  lost  to  the  Spaniards.  Nothing  is  more  repulsive  to  strangers  accus- 
tomed to  the  bustle  of  American  cities,  than  the  death-like  appearance  of  the 
place.  Of  any  other  city  it  would  be  a  disgrace  to  say  the  grass  grows  in  the 
streets,  but  here  it  would  be  considered  a  compliment,  for  no  vegetation  is  to  be 
observed  even  for  miles  around,  and  fish  is  the  only  article  of  provision  not 
brought  from  a  distance.  The  only  water  fit  to  drink  is  what  falls  from  the 
clouds,  and  is  preserved  in  tanks.  Living  at  the  hotels  is  very  expensive.  Milk 
is  scarcely  to  be  had,  as  not  a  cow  is  kept  within  many  miles,  and  what  perhaps 
is  peculiar  to  Vera  Cruz,  there  is  not  a  garden  even  near  it.  Society  here  is  ex- 
tremely confined,  and  morality  at  a  very  low  ebb.  Few  of  the  European  merchants 
are  married.  The  streets  are  filled  with  carrion  vultures,  and  act  as  scavengers 
for  the  place.  The  population  does  not  exceed  6,500.  It  was  here  that  Cortes 
landed  to  commence  his  ever-memorable  expedition,  although  this  is  not  the 
town  which  he  founded  of  that  name,  which  was  about  six  miles  distant. 

Xcdapa,  or  Jalapa,  the  capital  of  the  state,  is  situated  on  the  steep  declivity  of 
the  table-land,  about  4,340  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  It  is  a  pleasant  town, 
and  the  depot  between  Vera  Cruz  and  Mexico.  An  annual  fair  is  held  here, 
which  is  much  frequented.  It  contains  eight  churches,  a  good  school  for  draw- 
ing, and  13,000  inhabitants. 

Perote,  situated  on  the  edge  of  the  table-land,  8,300  feet  above  the  sea,  has  a 
population  of  10,000.  It  contains  one  of  the  four  castles  or  fortresses  erected  by 
the  Spanish  government  in  Mexico.  A  portion  of  the  prisoners  taken  in  the 
recent  Santa  Fe  expedition,  were  sent  to  this  place. 

Alvarado,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Rio  Alvarado,  has  a  small  harbour,  some  little 
trade,  and  1,600  inhabitants. 

Yl.—Puehla. 

The  State  of  Puebla  comprehends  a  large  portion  of  the  table-land  of  Tlascala, 
and  of  its  southern  declivity,  having  only  a  low  and  comparatively  narrow  tract 
along  the  coast  of  the  Pacific,  about  65  miles  long. 

La  Puebla  de  los  Angelos,  the  capital,  contains  between  60,000  and  70,000 
inhabitants.  It  is  well  built,  with  straight  and  wide  streets,  and  contains  many 
fine  houses.  The  cathedral,  which  stands  in  a  large  square,  is  a  magnificent 
edifice,  and  is  rich  in  gold  and  silver  ornaments. 

\\\.— Tlascala. 

The  territory  of  Tlascala  is  enclosed  by  the  state  of  Puebla.  It  contains  a 
population  of  Indians,  and  of  mixed  races,  which,  even  under  the  Spanish 
dominion,  enjoyed  several  privileges  which  had  been  granted  to  them  for  having 
aided  the  Spaniards  in  the  conquest  of  Mexico  under  Cortes.     Their  privileges 


16  CIVIL     DIVISIONS,     CITIES,     TOWNS,     ETC. 

and  independence  have  been  confirnned  by  the  republican  government.     The 
inhabitants  are  chiefly  occupied  with  agriculture. 

Tlascala,  or  Tlaxcallan,  the  capital,  contains  a  population  of  4,000  persons. 
The  walls  were  erected  long  before  the  arrival  of  the  Europeans. 

YIU.— Mexico. 

The  State  of  Mexico  lies  between  16  d.  .34  m.  and  20  d.  10  m.  N.  lat.  The 
best  cultivated  portion  is  the  table-land,  where  wheat  and  the  fruits  of  Europe  are 
grown,  as  well  as  the  maguey  and  the  Indian  corn.  The  southern  districts  are 
very  thinly  peopled.     In  these  fertile  valleys  the  tropical  productions  succeed. 

Tezcuco,  the  capital,  is  situated  on  the  plain  of  Tenochtitlan,  on  the  east  side 
of  the  lake  of  Tezcuco,  and  about  thirty  mil?s  from  Mexico.  It  has  some  man- 
ufactures of  cotton,  and  about  5,000  inhabitants. 

Acapulco  is  the  sea-port  of  Mexico  on  the  Pacific.  It  was  the  seat  of  the 
Spanish  trade  with  the  Phillipine  Isles,  and  the  store-house  of  immense  wealth. 
Its  port  is  a  basin  cut  from  the  solid  rock,  and  is  capable  of  receiving  the  largest 
vessels.  It  is  very  hot  and  unhealthy,  and  contains  about  4000  inhabitants, 
chiefly  negroes. 

IX. —  The  Federal  District. 

The  Federal  District  is  surrounded  by  the  State  of  Mexico,  and  comprehends 
only  the  environs  of  the  metropolis,  in  the  centre  of  the  plain  or  valley  of  Te- 
nochtitlan. 

The   Valley  of  Mexico. 

Midway  across  the  continent,  somewhat  nearer  the  Pacific  than  the  Atlantic, 
at  an  elevation  of  nearly  7800  feet,  is  the  celebrated  valley  of  Mexico.  It  is  of 
an  oval  form,  about  120  miles  in  circumference,  and  is  encompassed  by  a  tower- 
ing rampart  of  porphyritic  rocks,  which  nature  seems  to  have  provided,  though 
ineflfectually;  to  protect  it  from  invasion.  The  appearance  of  the  valley  is  that 
of  an  oval  basin  surrounded  on  all  sides  with  mountains  of  every  degree  of  eleva- 
tion, and  of  every  variety  of  appearance,  from  a  little  rugged  promontory  to 
Pococatopetl,  as  some  say,  the  highest  mountain  in  Mexico,  and  even  the  highest 
upon  the  continent,  covered  with  perpetual  snow,  10,400  feet  higher  than  the 
city  itself.  No  less  than  five  lakes  spread  over  the  valley,  occupying  at  least 
one-tenth  of  its  surface.  "  Thus  at  one  view,"  remarks  a  late  writer,  "  bursts 
upon  the  astonished  traveller,  village,  city,  lakes,  plains,  and  mountains,  alto- 
gether forming  a  tout  ensemble  of  the  most  imposing  character.  I  could  only 
admire  the  extensive  fields  spread  out  before  me,  for  the  valley  of  Mexico  is  justly 
renowned  for  its  fertility.  Thus,  while  I  might  upon  the  right  hand  be  attracted 
by  an  extensive  meadow  appropriated  for  grazing,  on  the  left,  I  would  be  greeted 
by  the  pleasing  prospect  of  miles  in  extent,  and  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  of 
lands  cultivated  alone  in  maize  or  Indian  corn.  And  while  now  I  would  arrive 
at  verdant  nooks,  with  acres  of  land  cultivated  in  chili  or  red  pepper — of  which 
some  individuals,  from  a  single  crop  of  chili  alone,  realize  the  immense  sum  of 
$50,000, — and  then  I  would  come  upon  the  green  and  flowery  fields,  cultivated 
to  feed  the  cochineal  insect." 

"  The  view  of  the  valley  of  Mexico  is  certainly  beautiful  and  grand,  and  but  for 
the  painful  absence  of  timber,  and  the  vast  sterility  of  much  of  its  territory,  might 
perhaps  be  the  most  magnificent  sight  anywhere  to  behold  upon  the  face  of  the 
globe.  As  I  progressed,  I  was  soon  brought  in  bold  view  by  my  close  contact 
with  the  lake  region.     One  of  these  lakes,  near  the  ciiy  of  Mexico,  I  was  in- 


CIVIL     DIVISIONS,     CITIES,     TOWNS,     ETC.  17 

former,  was  thirty  miles  in  leng  h,  anJ  has  the  appcanmcc  of  a  bay  or  port  to 
the  i^reat  city.  There  is-  on  the  border  of  the  lake  hoi  springs,  the  waters  of 
which  arc  used  for  bathing'  purposes.  As  the  ddigencla  entered  on  the  great  cause- 
way which  separates  Lake  Cnolco  from  Xochicalo,  a  passenger  iiir)rnied  me  that 
this  bridge  was  not  only  made  by  the  Aztecs,  but  was  the  s.ime  identical  track 
which  Cortes  and  his  travellers  passed  on  the  8lb  of  November,  1519,  the  day 
ou  which  liiey  iirst  set  foot  in  the  city  of  Mexico." 

Description  of  the  City. 

The  city  of  Mexico  is  said  to  be  the  finest  built  city  on  the  American  conti- 
nent. In  the  principal  streets  the  houses  are  all  constructed  on  the  strictest  ar- 
chitectural rulei.  The  first  buildings  were  erected  by  Cartes,  who  did  every 
thing  well,  from  writing  a  couplet  to  conquering  an  empire.  Many  of  the  finest 
buildings  in  Mexico  are  still  owned  by  his  descendants.  The  public  square  is 
said  to  be  unsurpassed  by  any  in  the  world;  it  contains  some  twelve  or  fifteen 
acres  paved  with  stone.  The  Cathedral  covers  one  entire  side,  the  Palace  an- 
other ;  the  western  side  is  occupied  by  a  row  of  very  high  and  substantial  houses, 
the  second  stories  of  which  project  into  the  street  the  width  of  the  pavement; 
the  lower  stories  are  occupied  by  the  principal  retail  merchants  of  the  city. 
The  most  of  these  houses  were  built  by  Cortes,  who,  with  his  characteristic 
sagacity,  and  an  avarice  which  equally  characterized  him  in  the  latter  part  of 
his  life,  selected  the  best  portion  of  the  city  for  himself. 

The  President's  Palace,  formerly  the  palace  of  the  viceroys,  is  an  immense 
building  of  three  stories  high,  about  five  hundred  feet  in  length,  and  three  hun- 
dred and  fifty  wide  ;  it  stands  on  the  site  of  the  palace  of  Montezuma,  which 
was  destroyed  by  Cortes.  It  is  difficult  to  conceive  of  so  much  stone  and  mor- 
tar being  put  together  in  a  less  tasteful  and  imposing  shape.  It  has  much  more 
the  appearance  of  a  cotton  factory  or  a  penitentiary,  than  what  it  really  is. 
Only  a  very  small  part  of  this  palace  is  appropriated  to  the  residence  of  the 
President.  All  the  public  offices  are  here,  including  heads  of  the  different  de- 
partments, ministers  of  justice,  treasury,  &c.  The  halls  of  the  deputies  and  of 
the  Senate,  are  in  the  same  building,  and  also  that  of  the  botanic  garden. 

The  Cathedral,  which  occupies  the  site  of  the  great  idol  temple  of  Montezuma, 
is  five  hundred  feet  long  by  four  hundred  and  twenty  wide.  Like  all  the  other 
churches  in  Mexico,  it  is  built  in  the  gothic  style.  The  walls,  of  several  feet 
in  thickness,  are  made  of  unhewn  stone  and  lime. 

The  streets  of  Mexico  are  uncommonly  wide,  much  more  so  than  is  neces- 
sary, considering  that  they  are  not  obstructed,  as  in  our  city,  by  drays  and  wag- 
gons. The  side-walks  are  uncommonly  narrow.  The  streets  are  all  paved 
with  round  stones;  the  side-walks  with  very  rough  flat  ones.  The  houses  on 
the  principal  streets  are  all  two  and  three  stories  high.  The  walls  are  built  of 
rough  stones,  of  all  shapes  and  sizes,  and  large  quantities  of  lime  mortar.  The 
streets  cross  each  other  at  right  angles,  dividing  the  whole  city  into  squares. 
Each  one  of  these  squares  is  called  a  street,  and  has  a  separate  name.  Instead 
of  designating  the  street  in  its  whole  extent  by  one  name,  each  side  of  every 
square  has  a  different  name,  and  names  which  sound  to  Protestant  ears  very 
much  like  a  violation  of  the  third  article  of  the  decalogue,  such  as  the  street  of 
Jesus,  and  the  street  of  the  Holy  Ghost.  In  most  of  these  streets  there  is  a 
church,  which  gives  name  to  the  street  on  which  it  stands.  In  many  instances 
these  churches  and  convents  cover  the  whole  square,  not  with  separate  build- 
ings, but  one  single  edifice,  with  the  usual  court  or  open  space  in  the  centre. 
There  is  not,  I  believe,  a  house  in  the  city  without  this  court,  of  greater  or  less 
dimensions,  in  proportion  to  the  size  of  the  building.  There  is  only  one  door 
on  the  lower  story,  and  that  high  enough  for  a  coach  to  pass  through.  It  opens 
2 


*l8  CIVIL     DIVISIONS,     CITIES,     TOWNS,     ETC. 

into  the  court  through  which  you  pass  to  the  steps  leading  to  the  upper  story, 
where  alone  every  body  lives,  except  the  lowest  classes.  In  all  the  establish- 
ments of  the  better  classes,  the  basement  story  is  only  occupied  by  the  servants, 
and  as  lumber  rooms,  and  what  appears  very  strange,  as  stables.  There  is  not 
in  the  whole  city  such  a  separate  building  as  a  stable.  "  In  visiting  Count  Cer- 
tuna,"  says  Mr.  Thompson,  "  whose  whole  establishment  is  altogether  princely, 
I  found  this  court  on  the  ground  floor  used  as  a  stable,  and  passed  through  rows 
of  horses  and  carriages,  to  make  my  way  to  the  most  spacious  halls,  filled  with 
fine  paintings  of  the  great  masters,  and  furnished  throughout  in  a  style  altogeth- 
er gorgeous."  In  some  of  the  large  private  buildings,  thirty  and  forty  different 
families  reside  ;  each  one  having  rented  one  or  two  rooms,  all  entering  at  the 
only  outside  door  into  the  court,  which  is  the  common  propeny  of  all,  and  from 
which  each  one  has  an  entrance  into  his  own  rooms  on  the  ground  floor  or  the 
gallery  above,  which  runs  all  around  the  building.  The  area  of  Mexico  does 
not  exceed  two  miles  in  length  and  a  mile  and  a  half  in  width,  a  very  small 
space  to  be  occupied  by  a  population  of  nearly  200,000.  But  it  is  not  at  all 
surprising,  when  you  see  thirty  or  forty  families  all  huddled  away  in  one  house, 
and  consider  what  a  large  number  sleep  in  the  open  air  in  that  delightful  cli- 
mate. How  pure  must  be  the  atmosphere  when  Mexico  is  so  remarkably  healthy, 
notwithstanding  such  a  crowded  and  filthy  mode  of  living,  and  with  a  tropical 
sun  shining  upon  the  moist  surface  of  the  whole  valley  ! 

It  is  a  little  curious,  that  whilst  the  buildings  and  population  of  IMoxico  are 
thus  crowded  into  so  small  a  space,  and  that  rents  are  three  limes  as  high  as  in 
New-York,  yet  all  around  the  city  there  is  a  vacant  ground,  and  as  dry  as  the 
city  itself,  which  may  be  had  almost  for  the  taking.  "  I  was  riding  out  with  a 
friend  one  evening,"  says  Mr.  Thompson,  "  when  he  showed  me  a  square  con- 
taining between  five  or  six  acres,  just  on  the  outskirts  of  the  city,  and  not  more 
than  half  a  mile  from  the  public  sqware,  which  he  had  just  purchased  for  four 
hundred  dollars !" 

The  city  is  partly  supplied  with  provisions  and  vegetables  by  small  boats, 
which  bring  them  over  the  Lake  of  Tezcuco  ;  but  as  the  lake  is  very  shallow  in 
January  and  February,  the  supply  is  then  generally  stopped,  and  the  city  de- 
pends, especially  for  vegetables,  on  the  supply  by  the  canal  of  Iztapalapan,  which 
leads  from  the  Lake  of  Xochimilco  to  the  town.  This  canal  is  narrow,  but  always 
covered  with  small  canoes  loaded  with  fruits  and  vegetables :  it  passes  through 
the  chinampas,  or  floating  gardens,  which,  in  their  present  state,  are  long  nar- 
row strips  of  ground,  redeemed  from  the  surrounding  swamp,  and  intersected  by 
small  canals.  They  are  well  cultivated,  abound  in  fine  vegetables,  and  their 
edges  are  planted  with  poplars.  It  is  stated  that  they  originally  consisted  of 
wooden  rafts,  covered  with  earth,  and  floated  about  in  the  lake  when  it  was  full 
of  water,  whence  their  name  is  derived.  At  present  they  are  stationary,  but  it 
is  said  that  there  are  still  some  floating  gardens  in  the  Lake  Xochimilco. 

TJie  Halls  of  the  Montczumas. 

Montezuma  II.  ascended  the  Mexican  throne  X.  D.  1502,  at  the  age  of  23, 
before  Mexico  had  been  discovered  by  Europeans.  He  died  30th  June,  1520, 
in  the  42d  year  of  his  age,  of  wounds  inflicted  by  the  Spanish  discoverers,  whom 
he  had  invited  to  his  royal  palace.     Historians  agree  in  admiring  his  character. 

On  ascending  the  throne,  not  content  with  the  spacious  residence  of  his  father, 
he  erected  another,  much  more  magnificent.  So  vast  was  this  great  structure, 
that,  as  one  historian  informs  us,  the  space  covered  by  its  terraced  roof,  might 
have  aflforded  ample  room  for  thirty  knights  to  run  their  courses  in  a  regular 
toumay.  His  father's  palace,  although  not  so  high,  was  so  extensive  that  the 
visitors  were  too  much  fatigued  in  wandering  through  the  apartments  ever  to 


CIVIL     DIVISIONS,     CITIES,     TOWNS,     ETC.  19 

see  the  whole  of  them.  The  palaces  were  built  of  red-stone,  ornamented  with 
marble,  the  arms  of  the  Montezuma  family  (an  eagle  bearini^  u  ticrer  in  his  talons) 
being  sculptured  over  the  main  entrance.  Crystal  fountains,  fed  by  great  reser- 
voirs on  the  neighbouring  hills,  played  in  the  vast  halls  and  gardens,  and  sup- 
plied water  in  hundreds  of  marble  baths  in  the  interior  of  the  palaces.  Crowds 
of  nobles  and  military  chieftains  were  continually  sauntering  through  the  halls, 
or  loitering  away  iheir  hours  in  attendance  on  the  court.  Rich  carvings  in  wood 
adorned  the  ceilings,  beautiful  mats  of  palm-leaf  covered  the  floors.  The  walls 
were  hung  with  cotton  richly  stained,  the  skins  of  wild  animals,  or  gorgeous 
draperies  of  feather-work,  wrought  in  imitation  of  birds,  insects,  and  flowers,  in 
glowing  radiance  of  colours.  Clouds  of  incense  from  golden  censers  diffused 
intoxicating  odours  through  splendid  apartments,  occupied  by  nine  hundred  and 
eighty  wives  and  5,000  slaves  of  Montezuma. 

This  building  was  totally  destroyed  by  Cortes,  and  the  President's  Palace  now 
stands  on  its  site. 

X. —  Queretaro. 

The  State  of  Queretaro,  lying  between  20  d.  and  22  d.  N.  lat.,  comprehends 
a  great  part  of  the  table-land  of  Queretaro,  which,  within  the  state,  is  about 
6,300  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  It  is  comparatively  populous  and  fertile, 
producing  all  the  grains  and  fruits  of  Mexico. 

Queretaro,  the  capital,  is  distinguished  by  its  fine  buildings  and  its  aqueduct. 
The  population  amounts  to  about  40,000,  of  which  number  one  third  are  Indians. 

XT. — Guanaxuato, 

The  State  of  Guanaxuato  extends  over  a  portion  of  the  table-land  of  Quere- 
taro, which,  within  its  limits,  has  an  elevation  of  about  6000  feet.  It  is  the 
smallest  of  the  Mexican  states,  but  the  most  populous,  and  probably  also  the 
richest. 

Guanaxuato,  the  capital,  is  situated  in  a  ravine  in  the  midst  of  the  mines, 
7,294  feet  above  the  sea.     It  contains  a  mint  and  many  fine  buildings. 

XII. — Michoacan. 

The  State  of  Michoacan  was  formerly  the  intendencia  of  Valladolid  ;  but  this 
name  was  changed  at  the  time  of  the  union  of  the  Mexican  states,  into  that  of 
an  ancient  Indian  kingdom,  which  existed  here  before  the  Spanish  conquest. 

Valladolid,  at  present  called  Morelia,  in  honour  of  the  Mexican  general  Mora- 
les, is  the  capital.  It  is  situated  in  a  plain  6,434  feet  above  the  sea  ;  and  con- 
tains 18,000  inhabitants.  Some  of  the  public  buildings  are  very  good;  among 
others  the  college,  which  is  esteemed  one  of  the  best  in  Mexico :  the  cathedral 
is  a  magnificent  edifice,  and  the  acqueduct,  by  which  the  town  is  supplied  with 
good  spring-water,  is  handsomer  than  that  of  Mexico,  and  built  of  stone. 

XIII. — Colima. 

The  territory  of  Colima  is  situated  on  the  shores  of  the  Pacific,  where  it  oc- 
cupies a  coast  line  of  about  100  miles.  Its  surface,  properly  speaking,  is  not 
mountainous,  but  a  plain,  on  which  there  are  several  high  hills  and  the  elevated 
volcano  of  Colima.  The  climate  is  consequently  hot ;  and,  as  the  soil  is  fertile, 
it  yields  many  tropical  products,  particularly  cotton  of  excellent  quality. 
Nearly  all  the  inhabitants  are  Indians,  who,  at  their  own  request,  have  a  ^o\- 


so  CIVIL     DIVISIONS,     CITIES,     TOWNS,     ETC. 

ernment  independent  of  that  of  the  state  of  Xalisco,  to  which  they  formerly  be- 
longed. 

Colima,  the  capital,  is  situated  at  the  fool  of  the  volcano  of  the  same  name, 
in  a  very  fertile  plain. 

XIV, — Jalisco  or  Xalisco. 

The  State  of  Jalisco  or  Xalisco  Avas  formerly  the  province  of  Guadalaxara. 
The  low  country  north  of  the  river  Santiago,  consists  of  extensive  plains,  and 
contains  very  few  hills.  The  countries  along  the  shores  of  the  Pacific  are  more 
covered  with  forests  than  any  other  part  of  Mexico. 

Guadalaxara,  the  second  city  in  Mexico,  is  situated  in  a  fertile  plain  not  far 
from  the  banks  of  the  Rio  Santiago,  below  the  great  cataracts.  It  contains  about 
60,000  inhabitants.  It  has  a  fine  cathedral,  many  churches  and  convents;  and 
the  streets  are  lined  by  colonnades.  The  commerce  of  Guadalaxara  with  the 
adjacent  countries  and  the  port  of  San  Bias,  is  considerable. 

San  Bias,  or  San  Blasio,  is  a  good  harbour  at  the  mouth  of  the  Rio  Santiago, 
on  a  rock,  surrounded  by  low  marshes,  which  render  the  climate  very  unhealthy. 
During  the  rains  it  is  almost  entirely  abandoned  by  the  inhabitants ;  who,  at 
other  times,  amount  to  about  3,000  in  number.  Vessels  are  built  here  ;  and 
much  salt  is  collected  in  the  neighbourhood.  The  trade  is  considerable,  but 
has  lately  much  decreased. 

XV. — Zacatecas. 

The  State  of  Zacatecas  comprehends  the  northern  portion  of  the  table-land  of 
Queretaro,  and  the  southern  part  of  the  plain  of  Chihuahua  ;  the  boundary  line 
between  them  running  some  miles  north  of  the  town  of  Zacatecas,  and  thence  to 
Sombrerete.  Both  portions  have  a  very  arid  soil,  but  the  table-land  of  Quere- 
taro contains  many  fertile  districts. 

Zacatecas,  the  capital,  stands  in  a  ravine  between  high  hills,  all  of  which  con- 
tain veins  of  silver.  Its  churches  are  large  buildings,  the  stone  work  of  which 
is  richly  decorated.  The  number  of  inhabitants  is  estimated  at  more  than 
30,000.  A  great  portion  of  the  jalap  exported  from  Mexico  is  collected  in  the 
neighbouring  hills  and  valleys. 

XVI. — San  Luis  Poiosi. 

The  State  of  San  Luis  Potosi  comprehends  the  southern  portion  of  the  plain 
of  Chihuahua,  and  its  declivity  towards  the  gulf  of  Mexico  and  the  plain  of 
Monterey.  The  surface  is  in  many  places  uneven  and  rugged,  and  little  culti- 
vated.    The  numerous  mines  produce  silver,  copper,  tin,  and  brimstone. 

San  Luis  Potosi,  the  capital,  is  situated  in  a  pleasant  valley  near  the  sources 
of  the  river  Tamoin,  a  branch  of  the  Rio  Panuco.  It  contains  16,000  inhabi- 
tants, who  carry  on  some  trade. 

XVII. — Burango. 

The  State  of  Durango  occupies  the  highest  and  widest  part  of  the  Sierra 
Madre,  and  also  a  considerable  portion  of  the  plain  of  Chihuahua.  The  eastern 
declivity  of  the  Sierra  Madre  is  the  more  fertile  district,  and  it  is  better  cultivated 
and  more  populous  than  the  plain,  which  is  nearly  a  desert,  except  along  the 
courses  of  the  rivers. 

Durango,  at  present  called  La  Ciudad  Victoria,  is  a  regularly  built  town,  situ- 
ated on  a  plain  more  than  6,848  feet  above  the  sea.     In  winter  the  thermometer 


CIVIL     DIVISIONS,     CITIES,     TOWNS,     BTC.  21 

descends  many  degrees  below  the  freezinir  point.  The  inhabitants,  amounting 
to  22,003,  are  industrious,  and  are  partly  occupied  in  the  manufacture  of  wool, 
leather,  and  in  cabinet-work.  There  are  some  mines  in  the  neighbourhood,  and 
a  mint  in  the  town.  Numerous  herds  of  cattle  are  brought  from  the  plain  to  the 
market  of  Durango. 

XVUl.—New  Leon, 

The  State  of  New  Leon  (Nuevo  Leon)  extends  over  a  large  part  of  the  plain 
of  Monterey  and  the  mountain  tract  lying  between  it  and  the  Rio  del  Norte. 
The  plain  is  very  little  known.  It  appears  to  consist  of  extensive  levels,  here 
and  there  intersected  by  hills  of  moderate  elevation,  and  exhibits  a  good  deal  of 
fertility,  but  is  little  cultivated.  There  are  few  important  mines  in  the  moun- 
tains o(  the  northern  districts.  Large  herds  of  cattle  pasture  on  the  plains.  The 
population,  which  is  very  small,  consists  chiefly  of  whites. 

Monterey,  the  capital,  with  15,000,  is  the  seat  of  a  Bishop,  and  derives  its  im- 
portance from  the  neighbourhood  of  the  mines. 

XIX. —  Tamauhpas. 

The  State  of  Tamaulipas  extends  along  the  coast  of  the  gulf  of  Mexico  from 
the  Rio  Panuco  t)  the  Rio  d.l  Norte,  which  separates  it  from  Texas.  The 
coast,  whi-h  is  above  350  miles  in  length,  is  lined  with  long  lagunes  from  four  to 
eighteen  miles  wide,  which  are  separated  from  the  sea  by  long  narrow  bands  of 
sand.  This  circumstance,  added  to  the  small  depth  of  the  sea  along  the  whole 
extent  of  coast,  and  the  bars  which  occur  at  the  mouths  of  the  rivers,  renders  the 
navigation  along  the  shore  of  this  State  very  difficult  even  for  small  vessels,  and 
quite  impracticable  for  large  ones.  The  width  of  the  country  averages  about  70 
miles,  except  along  the  banks  of  the  Rio  Grande  del  Norte,  where  it  may  be  from 
150  to  ISO  miles  wide.  The  surface  is  mostly  level,  and  little  elevated  above 
the  sea.  The  soil  along  the  beach  is  sandy,  but  more  inland  it  is  of  considera- 
ble fertility,  and  partly  covered  with  forests.  Other  portions  are  prairie  land 
without  trees. 

Tampico  de  Tamaulipas  is  situated  on  a  peninsula  or  neck  of  land  about  four 
hundred  yards  wide,  formed  by  the  river  Panuco  on  one  side,  and  the  Laguna 
del  Barpintero  on  the  other.  It  is  about  six  miles  from  the  sea.  At  the  mouth 
of  this  river  there  is  an  insiffnificant  fortification  of  three  or  four  old  guns,  ni^Me 
likely  to  injure  those  who  discharge  them,  than  those  against  whom  they  are 
directed.  The  bar  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  admits  of  vessels  drawing  from 
seven  to  nine  feet  water,  according  to  the  winds  and  season  of  the  year. 

Tampico  is  susceptible  of  being  made  a  very  strong  military  position,  at  a  very 
moderate  expense,  by  simply  cutting  a  ditch  and  running  a  breast-work  across 
the  neck  of  land  above  and  below  the  town,  and  strengthening  the  breast-work 
by  bastions  at  either  extremity  of  the  line,  at  the  river  and  at  the  lake.  On  the 
south-eastern  side,  or  nearest  the  sea,  the  land  is  low,  and  across  the  neck  a  canal 
has  been  cut,  which  unites  the  river  with  the  lake.  This  canal  could  readily  be 
made  to  form  the  basis  of  the  fortifications  on  that  side.  On  the  upper  side  or 
entrance  from  Altamira,  the  land  is  high  and  ofTers  some  remarkably  fine  sites 
lor  defence  of  that  approach,  the  only  approach  that  could  be  used  by  an 
enemy  not  having  command  of  the  river. 

Tampico  is  not  absolutely  commanded  by  any  height  near  enough  to  throw 
an  effective  point  blank  shot,  thounfh  from  the  hills  below  the  town,  on  the  oppo- 
site side  of  the  river,  shot  and  shells  can  be  thrown  into  the  south-eastern  part 
of  the  town.  Immediately  opposite  the  town,  an  extensive  salt-marsh  and  lake 
prevent  any  approach  of  an  enemy's  force. 


aZ  CIVIL     DIVISIONS,     CITIES,     TOWNS,     ETC. 

In  its  present  state  of  defence,  Tampico  could  make  little  or  no  resistance 
against  a  force  of  two  thousand  men,  whilst  the  same  number  as  a  garrison  could 
— when  the  defensive  works  above  mentioned  were  completed — by  having  the 
command  of  the  river,  hold  it  against  any  force  that  could  be  brought  against  it. 

Nuevo  Santander,  with  a  population  of  3,000,  is  situated  on  the  banks  of  the 
Rio  Santander,  about  thirty  miles  from  the  sea.  The  harbour  is  at  Soto  la  Ma- 
rina, further  down  the  river,  which  has  only  from  six  to  seven  feet  water  on  the 
bar  at  its  mouth. 

Matamoras,  on  the  Rio  Grande  del  Norte,  has  a  harbour  for  small  vessels,  and 
is  a  new  and  thriving  commercial  town.     Population,  10,000. 

XX. — Cohahuila. 

The  State  of  Cohahuila  is  between  Nuevo  Leon  and  Chihuahua,  entirely  on 
the  plain  of  Chihuahua.  The  southern  districts  have  a  level  surface,  interrupted 
by  a  few  hills  of  moderate  elevation,  which  occur  at  great  distance  from  each 
other.  The  soil  is  very  arid,  and  the  vegetation  scanty.  These  southern  dis- 
tricts serve  only  as  a  pasture-ground  for  sheep,  and  are  nowhere  cultivated  to  any 
extent.  The  northern  districts  surrounding  the  river  Sabinos,  an  affluent  of  the 
Rio  del  Norte,  have  a  hilly  and  broken  surface  ;  the  hills  seem  to  form  ranges, 
running  parallel  to  the  Rio  del  Norte,  and  connecting  the  Bolson  de  Mapitni 
with  the  mountains  north  of  Monterey.  This  tract  appears  to  contain  a  large 
portion  of  fertile  and  colli vatable  land.  There  are  some  silver  mines  near  Santa 
Rosa.  Texas,  or  the  country  between  the  Rio  del  Norte  and  the  Sabine  river, 
formerly  belonged  to  this  State.  Horses,  mules,  and  wool  are  exported  to  the 
United  States. 

Saltlllo,  the  late  capital,  is  situated  at  the  southern  extremity  of  the  State,  on 
an  arid  plain.  The  only  carriage-road  by  which  the  plain  of  Chihuahua  can  be 
reached  from  the  shores  of  the  gulf  of  Mexico,  passes  through  this  place.  It 
contains  about  12,000  inhabitants,  and  has  several  good  streets  communicating  at 
right  angles  with  the  Plaza,  in  the  centre  of  which  is  a  large  reservoir,  which 
supplies  the  town  with  w-ater. 

Monclova,  the  present  capital,  with  3,600  inhabitants,  has  some  trade  with 
the  adjacent  countries. 

M^  XXI. — Chihuahua. 

The  State  of  Chihuahua  comprehends  a  large  portion  of  the  plain  of  Chihua- 
hua, and  likewise  the  mountain-ridge  of  the  Sierra  Madre,  between  26  d.  N, 
lat.  and  its  northern  extremity.  The  plain  is  not  fertile,  but  it  affords  spacious 
sheep-walks,  and  wool  is  the  staple  article  of  the  State.  The  pastures  are  cov- 
ered with  coarse  grass  ;  wheat,  Indian  corn,  and  cotton  are  raised  on  the  lands 
along  the  rivers  which  are  irrigated.  The  Sierra  Madre  abounds  in  silver,  and 
contains  many  rich  mines,  such  as  Parral,  Batopilas,  Cosiquiriachi.  Other 
mines,  also  said  to  be  rich,  have  lately  been  opened  in  the  mountainous  tract 
which  IS  called  the  Bolson  of  Mapimi,  and  which  occupies  the  eastern  districls 
contiguous  to  the  State  of  Cohahuila.  The  northern  district  of  the  State  and 
part  of  the  Bolson  de  Mapimi  also  are  still  occupied  by  Indians,  among  whom 
the  Camanches  are  excellent  horsemen,  and  much  dreaded  by  the  white  settlers. 

Chihuahua,  the  capital,  stands  in  an  arid  pin  in,  on  tha  banks  of  a  small  rivulet 
which  falls  into  the  Rio  Conchos,  about  700  miles  from  the  city  of  Mexico.  The 
houses  are  well  built,  and  the  streets  regular.  The  cathedral  is  a  very  large 
edifice.  A  good  aqueduct  brings  the  water  of  a  river,  which  is  about  eight  miles 
distant,  to  the  town,  and  is  so  judiciously  contrived  that  even  the  highest  parts 
of  the  city  are  supplied.     The  ore  procured  from  the  mines  to  the  west,  in  the 


CIVIL     DIVISIONS,     CITIES,     TOWNS,     ETC.  23 

Sierra  Madre,  is  brought  to  Chihuahua,  where  the  metal  is  extracted.     The 
populaiion  amounts  to  25,000  inhabitants. 

XXIL— New  Mexico. 

The  province  of  New  Mexico,  of  which  Santa  Fe  is  the  cnpital,  was  one  of  the 
first  establishments  of  the  Spaniards  in  the  Mexican  portion  of  America.  By  some 
tradition,  it  is  related  that  a  small  band  of  adventurers  proceeded  thus  far  north 
shortly  after  the  capture  of  the  city  of  Mexico. 

One  of  the  early  Spanish  historians,  writing  of  the  events  of  1550,  mentions 
New  iMexico  as  a  known  province,  though  as  yet  only  inhabited  by  aborigines. 
But  the  only  paper  found  in  the  archives  of  Santa  Fe,  which  jjives  any  clue  to 
Hs  first  settlement,  bears  date  September  21,  1595.  This  is  a  petition  to  estab- 
lish a  colony  on  the  liio  del  Norte,  which  we  infer  was  carried  into  effect  during 
the  following  spring. 

The  territory  of  New  Mexico,  or  of  Santa  Fe,  is  situated  in  the  north,  bound- 
ing on  the  unsettled  territory  of  the  United  States.  It  comprehends  only  the 
valley  of  the  Rio  del  Norte,  from  32  d.  N.  lat.  to  its  source.  It  contains  only 
two  fertile  tracts  along  the  banks  of  the  river,  and  these  are  separated  by  a  des- 
ert, which  spreads  out  170  or  ISO  miles  between  32  d.  30  m.  and  35  d.  N.  lat. 
The  northern  and  larger  of  these  extends  above  150  miles  to  the  north  of  35  d. 
N.  lat.,  and  the  climate  is  very  cold  :  it  produces  wheat  and  corn  and  the  fruits  of 
northern  Europe  ;  it  affords  a  great  abundance  of  pasture  for  cattle  and  horses. 
This  portion  is  the  district  of  Santa  Fe.  The  soutliern  tract  of  fertile  land  is  of 
very  moderate  extent,  lying  between  32  d.  and  32  d.  30  in.  N.  lat.:  it  is  called 
the  district  of  the  Paso  del  Norte.  It  abounds  in  excellent  fruit,  especially  grapes, 
which,  as  well  as  the  wine  made  of  them,  are  in  high  repute  all  over  Mexico. 
Wheat  and  maize  also  are  grown  extensively.  The  inhabitants  are  whites,  but 
on  the  mountains  and  deserts,  which  extend  on  both  sides  of  the  valley,  there  are 
several  independent  Indian  tribes,  which  are  at  enmity  with  the  settlers. 

Santa  Fe,  the  capital,  is  a  small  town,  with  3,600  inhabitants.  This  is  the 
first  place  that  the  caravans  from  Si.  Louis,  in  Missouri,  come  to  after  travers- 
ing the  plains  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  It  has  of  late  years 
become  a  great  mart  of  trade,  which  is  carried  on  by  the  caravans  of  mules  and 
horse  wa<rgons  loaded  with  goods  of  various  kinds  from  the  United  Stites.  It  is 
1,020  miles  west  of  New  Orleans,  and  1,131  miles  north  of  the  city  of  Mexico. 

Albuquerque  is  a  thriving  town. 

Paso  del  Norte,  the  only  town  in  the  southern  district,  contains  about  dfllO 
inhabitants. 

XXIII. — Occidente. 

The  State  of  Occidente,  or  of  Cinaloa  and  Sonora  united,  comprehends  the 
low  plain  which  extends,  along  the  Pacific,  from  23  deg.  north  latitude  north- 
ward to  the  banks  of  the  Rio  del  Fuerle,  and,  in  addition,  the  whole  of  the  hilly 
region  which  lies  north  of  it.  The  former  once  constituted  the  province  of  Cin- 
aloa, and  the  latter  that  of  Sonora.  The  country  along  the  coast  is  generally 
low  and  flat,  with  a  sandy  soil,  which,  however,  yields  Jiood  crops  of  corn  and 
wheat  when  it  can  be  irrigated.  The  principal  products  in  the  interior  districts 
are  wheat,  Indian  corn,  and  sugar  ;  cochineal  is  collected  in  small  quantities. 
The  mountains  contain  abundance  of  gold  and  copper.  Sauth  of  the  Rio  del 
Fuerte,  the  population  chiefly  consists  of  whites,  the  number  of  Indians  being 
inconsiderable:  but  to  the  north  of  the  river  the  whites  form  only  a  small  part 
of  the  population,  the  Indians  beinij  as  fifteen  to  one  of  the  white  iiihabiiants. 
The  most  numerous  tribes  are  the  Yaquis,  the  Mayos,  Opatas,  and  the  Apaches. 


2#  CLIMATE — SOIL — VEGETABLE    PnODUCTIONS ANIMALS. 

They  inhabit  towns  and  villages  of  their  own,  separate  from  the  whites,  and  are 
governed  by  their  own  magistrates. 

Villa  del  Fiierte,  the  capital,  situated  on  the  banks  of  the  Rio  del  Fuerte,  con- 
tains about  4,000  inhabitants. 

Guaymas,  (2S  d.  north  latitude)  is  the  best  harbour  in  Mexico,  being  protected 
on  all  sides  by  high  hills,  and  capable  of  sheltering  a  large  number  of  vessels. 
The  water  abreast  of  the  pier  is  about  five  fathoms  deep,  and  there  are  siill  deeper 
soundings  farther  off.  The  climate  is  healthy.  The  population  is  upwards  of 
3,000. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

CUMATE SOIL VEGETABLE    PRODUCriONS — ANIMALS. 

CLIMATE. 

If  climate  were  to  be  regulated  by  the  mere  circumstance  of  latitude,  all  the 
southern  portion  of  Mexico  would  feel  the  heat  of  the  torrid  zone;  whilst  the 
internal  provinces — the  Californias  and  Texas,  would  enjoy  a  moderate  tempe- 
rature. But  this  is  not  the  case.  Climate  is  affected  by  a  variety  of  causes,  and 
is  regulated  more  by  elevation  than  by  latitude.  Of  this  truth  Mexico  affords  a 
striking  exemplification.  The  whole  of  the  coasts  possess  a  warm  climate, 
adapted  for  West  Indian  productions  ;  the  temperature  of  the  plains,  elevated 
not  more  than  984  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  is  about  77  deg.  Fahrenheit. 
These  regions  are  denominated  tierras  calicntes,  and  produce  in  abundance 
sugar,  indigo,  cotton,  and  bannanas. 

On  the  declivity  of  the  table-land  of  Mexico,  at  an  elevation  of  about  4000 
feet,  there  reigns  a  perpetual  soft  spring  temperature,  which  never  varies  more 
than  four  or  five  degrees  Fahrenheit.  The  extremes  of  heat  and  cold  are  thus 
equally  unknown.  This  region  is  denominated  the  "  temperate  regions,"  where 
the  mean  heat  for  the  whole  year  is  from  68  to  70  degrees. 

The  third  temperature  is  that  of  the  table-land  of  Anahuac,  or  elevated  plains 
of  Mexico,  and  denominated  the  "  cold  regions."  This  elevated  tract,  compre- 
he((^ng  upwards  of  176,000  square  miles  within  the  tropic  of  cancer,  and  whose 
altitude  is  more  than  709  feet,  has  a  mean  temperat\]re  of  62  degrees.  In  the 
city  of  Mexico  the  thermometer  has  been  known  to  fall  several  degrees  below 
the  freezing  point ;  but  this  is  a  very  rare  occurrence,  and  the  winters  are  usu- 
ally as  mild  as  at  Naples. 

The  climate  of  what  are  denominated  the  internal  provinces,  especially  that 
of  New  Mexico,  differs  essentially  from  that  of  the  capital.  Here  severe  win- 
ters succeed  warm  summers.  The  reason  of  this  is  plain.  New  Mexico  is  a 
long  and  not  very  wide  valley,  bounded  on  all  sides  except  the  south,  by  ranges 
of  great  and  lofty  mountains,  covered  with  eternal  snows,  especially  to  the  north 
of  Santa  Fe.  In  the  peninsula  of  California  the  climate  is  generally  sultry  and 
the  sky  for  months  in  the  year  cloudless,  except  a  line  of  mist  about  the  wesern 
horizon  at  evening,  giving  the  most  brilliant  sunsets  conceivable.  The  remainder 
of  the  year,  the  winter  season,  is  rainy  and  oftentimes  tempestuous,  with  winds 
that  frequently  assume  the  character  of  terrible  tornadoes.  Upper  California 
has  a  most  delightful  climate.  A  dry  and  rainy  season — continual  breezes  in 
the  winter  from  the  S.  W.,  and  in  the  summer  from  the  N.  W.,  with  only  30  d. 
variation  of  climate  during  the  twelve  months. 


CLIMATE — SOIL VEGETABLE    PRODUCTIONS ANIMALS.  25 


SOIL     AND     VEGETABLE     PRODUCTIONS. 

Were  the  soil  of  Mexico  watered  by  more  freqtienl  rains,  no  country  cultiva- 
ted by  human  industry  coulJ  exceed  it ;  but  unfortunately,  however  fertile  the 
soil,  the  want  of  water  diminishes  the  abundance  of  the  harvests.  Only  two 
seasons  are  known  as  far  north  as  28  degs.,  namely,  the  rainy  and  the  dry 
season  ;  the  former  commencing  in  June  or  July,  and  continuing  till  the  end  of 
September.  The  farmer  has  seldom  to  complain  of  loo  greit  humidity,  and 
from  21  to  23  d.,  the  rains  are  still  less  frequent,  and  of  shorter  duration.  The 
droughts  compel  the  inhabitants  to  have  recourse  to  artificial  irrigation. 

The  variety  of  indigenous  Mexican  productions  is  immense;  indeed,  there 
hardly  exists  a  plant  on  the  face  of  the  globe  which  is  not  capable  of  being  cul- 
tivated in  this  country.  Those  which  are  most  generally  cultivated  may  be 
divided  into  two  kinds  :  those  which  serve  for  home  consumption,  and  those 
which  furnish  raw  materials  for  manufactures  and  commerce. 

The  Banana/ 

The  banana  is  to  all  the  inhabitants  of  the  tropics  what  the  variety  of  grain 
is  to  Europe,  and  what  rice  is  to  the  inhabitants  of  Hindustan  and  China. 
Wherever  the  mean  heat  exceeds  75  degrees,  the  fruit  of  the  banana  becomes 
one  of  the  most  important  objects  of  cultivation  for  human  subsistence. 

Maize  ^  or  Indian  Corn. 

Maize  is  the  principal  food  of  the  Mexicans.  When  the  maize  harvest  is 
poor,  either  from  want  of  rain  or  premature  frost,  famine  is  general ;  but  of  all 
the  gramina  sown,  none  is  so  unequal  in  its  prv)duce  as  maize.  The  price  of 
maize  varies  from  fifty  cents  to  four  dollars  the  hundred  pounds.  In  a  country 
where  there  are  no  magazines,  and  where  the  inhabitants  live  merely  from  hand 
to  mouth,  the  people  suffer  terribly  when  there  is  a  short  crop  of  Indian  corn ; 
they  then  feed  on  unripe  fruits,  berries  and  roots. 

Wheat. 

Of  European  Cerelia,  wheat  h*^' '/  ♦he  first  rank  in  Mexico,  and  was  intro-, 
dnced  by  a  negro  slave  of  Cortes,  who  found  three  or  four  grains  of  it  among 
the  rice  that  was  served  to  maintain  the  Spanish  army.  These  grains  were 
sown  before  the  year  1530.  The  wheat  harvests  are  rich  in  proportion  to  the 
quantity  of  water  procured  from  the  rivers  by  means  of  irrigating  canals.  In 
lands  thus  artificially  cultivated,  the  produce  of  wheat  is  astonishing.  Hum- 
boldt gives  25  bushels  to  one  as  the  annual  produce  of  the  whole  average  crop 
of  Mexico;  but  when  irrigation  is  properly  conducted,  and  the  year  is  good, 
from  60  to  80  bushels  for  one  have  been  frequently  produced  ;  yet,  notwith- 
standing this  astonishing  prorluciiveness,  wheat  in  Mexico  is  considerably  dearer 
than  it  is  in  the  English  market. 

Potatoes. 

The  potatoe,  though  a  native  of  Mexico,  was  not  known  there  at  the 
time  of  Montezuma.  It  is  much  cultivated  in  the  highest  part  of  the  central 
land,  and  is  admirably  adapted  for  these  elevated  and  dry  regions.  The  Mexi- 
cans, like  the  Peruvians,  preserve  their  potatoes  for  whole  years  by  drying  them 
in  the  sun.  They  grow  to  an  enormous  size,  often  to  more  than  twelve  inches  in 
diameter. 


CLIMATE — SOIL VEGETABLE    PRODUCTIONS ANIMALS. 


Other  Vegetalles. 

All  the  garden  stuffs  of  Europe  are  now  cultivated  in  Mexico  in  addition  to 
those  peculiar  to  the  climate.  Orange  and  citron  trees  flourish  vigorously  in. 
the  central  regions;  olive  groves  are  numerous  ;  the  cultivation  of  grapes  is  most 
successfully  prosecuted  in  some  districts,  where  large  quantities  of  wir.e  are  made. 
The  figs  of  Lower  California  form  a  considerable  article  of  export  to  the  other  states 
of  the  Kepublic  ;  and  the  dates  which  grow  there  are  much  esteemed.  Lemons 
pomegranates,  quinces,  and  pine-apples,  abound  in  Sonora,  and  other  districts. 
The  most  important  beverage  of  the  Mexican  Indians,  is  the  juice  of  the  Agave, 
a  plant  which  is  extensively  cultivated  there.  This  plant,  which  is  scarcely  five 
feet  in  height,  yields  a  honey-like  juice  at  the  time  of  the  effervescence  of  the 
plant.  At  this  period,  an  incision  is  made,  from  which  a  juice  exudes,  which 
continues  running  for  three  monliis.  This  juice  ferments  in  three  or  four  days, 
and  is  then  called  pulque  ;  the  liquor  resembles  cider  in  laste,  and  is  esteemed 
an  excellent  and  nutritive  drink.  The  consumption  of  this  liquor  is  immense. 
A  very  intoxicating  brandy  called  mesical,  is  formed  from  the  pulque.  The  agave 
shrub  also  supplies  the  place  of  the  hemp  of  Asia,  and  the  papyrus  of  Egypt, 
as  all  the  Mexican  manuscripts  sent  to  Europe  are  written  on  paper  made  of  the 
fibres  of  agave  leaves. 

Sugar. 

The  cultivation  of  sugar  has  made  rapid  progress  in  Mexico  within  the  pre- 
sent century.  "  The  possibility,"  says  Ward,  "  of  cultivating  a  sugar  cane  be- 
neath the  tropics  by  a  system  of  free  labour,  has  often  been  canvassed  ;  but  I 
know  no  country  except  Mexico  where  the  experiment  has  been  fairly  tried  upon 
a  large  scale.  The  plantations  were  all  worked,  in  the  first  instance,  by  slaves 
who  were  purchased  at  from  three  to  four  hundred  dollars  each.  The  difficulty 
of  ensuring  a  sufficient  supply  during  a  war  with  a  maritime  nation,  and  the 
number  of  slaves  who  perished  from  the  sudden  change  of  climate  on  the  road 
to  the  coast,  induced  several  of  the  great  proprietors  to  endeavour  to  propagate  a 
race  of  free  labourers,  by  giving  liberty  to  a  certain  number  of  slaves  annually, 
and  encouraging  them  to  intermarry  with  the  native  Indians,  which  they  soon 
did  to  a  very  great  extent.  The  plan  was  found  to  be  so  economical,  that  on 
many  of  the  large  estates  there  was  not  a  single  slave  in  ISOS.  Such  is  the  fer- 
tility of  equinoctial  Mexico,  that  Humboldt  estimated  that  all  the  sugar  con- 
sumed in  France,  say  44,140,000  pounds,  might  be  produced  on  a  surface  of  55 
square  miles.  As  it  is,  the  greatest  part  of  the  sugar  is  consumed  in  Mexico 
itself.     The  crop  is  estimated  at  about  50,000,000  pounds. 

Cotton. 

Although  the  soil  is  highly  favourable  to  the  cultivation  of  cotton,  yet  the 
quantity  cultivated  is  comparatively  small.  Cotton  of  the  finest  quality  is  culti- 
vated all  along  the  coast  from  Acapulco  to  Guatamala,  but  two  circumstances 
operate  as  obstacles  to  the  cultivation  :  the  want  of  machines,  and  the  high 
price  of  carriage.  The  Eastern  coast  might  supply  the  commerce  of  Vera  Cruz 
with  an  enormous  quantitv  of  cotton,  were  it  occupied  by  a  people  of  energetic 
and  inrlustr'ous  habits.  The  quantity  exported  to  Europe  in  1830,  was  less 
than  1,000,000  pounds. 

Coffee,  Chocolate,  <^c. 

The  cultivation  of  coffee  is  almost  unknown  in  Mexico,  the  quantity  con- 
sumed not  exceeding  500  quintals  annually.     The  cultivation  of  the  cocoa-tree 


CLIMATE — SOIL — VEGETABLE    PRODUCTIONS — ANIMALS.  27 

is  now  much  more  neglected  in  Mexico  than  at  the  time  of  its  conquest.  At 
that  time  the  Mexicans  prepared  a  beverage  called  choclalt,  whence  the  modern 
term  chocolate  is  derived.  All  the  vanilla  used  in  Europe,  comes  from  Mexico 
by  way  of  Vera  Cruz,  and  is  produced  on  a  surface  of  a  few  square  leagues  of 
ground  in  the  intendencies  of  Vera  Cruz  and  Oaxaca  ;  the  annual  exports 
amount  to  about  S 40,000.  Sarsapirilla  is  also  produced  on  the  same  east- 
ern slope  where  the  vanilla  is  produced.  The  quantities  of  red-pepper  raised 
in  all  parts  of  the  country  is  almost  incredible.  The  Mexican  would  rather  go 
without  bread,  than  lack  chili,  as  he  calls  it,  with  his  meat.  Both  in  its  green 
and  dried  state  the  amount  consumed  is  incredible.  When  mashed  and  mixed 
with  a  little  water,  it  is  the  universal  sauce  on  the  tables  of  the  great,  while  with 
the  poor  it  forms  a  component  part  of  their  diet.  The  famous  medicinal  purga- 
tive called  Jalap,  from  Xalapa,  in  the  vicinity  of  which  it  is  cultivated,  vege- 
tates ai  an  absolute  height  of  from  4  to  5000  feet  on  the  whole  mountainous 
elope.  The  whole  annual  quantity  of  what  is  exported  from  Vera  Cruz  is  about 
f5000  pounds,  or  more  than  one  half  of  what  is  consumed  in  Europe. 

Tobacco,  ^c. 

Tobacco  grows  luxuriantly  throughout  large  districts  in  Mexico,  and  the 
quantity  consumed  there  is  enormous,  although  the  Indian  population  make  no 
use  whatever  of  this  noxious  weed.  The  cultivation  of  indigo  is  much  neglected 
in  Mexico,  although  there  are  great  opportunities  for  its  cultivation. 

'  AniTnals. 

With  the  exception  of  the  cochmeal  insect,  the  most  valuable  animals  known  in 
Mexico  have  been  introduced  by  Europeans.  The  Mexicans  have  not  even  re- 
duced to  a  domestic  state  the  two  species  of  wild  oxen,  which  wander  in  immen.se 
herds  near  the  plains  of  the  Rio  del  Norte  ;  they  were  unacquainted  with  the 
lama  of  the  Cordilleras  ;  and  made  no  use  of  the  wild  sheep  of  California,  or  of 
the  wild  goats  of  Upper  California.  Since  the  conquest,  the  domestic  animals 
imported  from  Europe,  as  oxen,  sheep,  horses,  and  hogs,  have  multiplied  amaz- 
ingly. Immense  numbers  of  horned  caule  feed  on  the  ever-verdant  pastures  of 
the  coast.  The  natives,  like  the  Chinese,  care  very  little  for  milk,  butter  or 
cheese,  but  the  two  latter  are  in  much  request  among  the  castes  of  mixed  ex- 
traction. 

The  horses  of  the  northern  provinces  are  as  celebrated  for  their  excellent 
qualities  as  those  of  Chili ;  both  said  to  be  of  Arabian  extraction.  Many  Mexi- 
can families  possess  from  30,000  to  40,000  head  of  horses  and  cattle.  The 
mules  would  be  still  more  numerous,  if  so  many  of  them  did  not  perish  on  the 
highways  from  over  labour.  The  commerce  of  Vera  Cruz  alone  employs 
70,000  mules  and  5000  are  employed  in  the  carriages  of  the  city  of  Mexico. 

The  rearing  of  sheep  has  been  dreadfully  neglected  in  Mexico.  None  of  the 
merinos  have  been  introduced. 

df  wild  animals  peculiar  to  Mexico,  the  gigantic  stags  of  Upper  California 
are  the  chief.  All  the  forests  and  plains  are  filled  with  droves  of  this  animal, 
which  is  justly  affirmed  by  every  traveller  to  be  the  most  beautiful  quadruped 
of  America,  and  is  qui'e  different  from  the  elk  of  the  United  States.  They  are 
of  a  brown  colour,  smooth  and  without  spot.  Their  antlers,  of  which  the  branches 
are  not  flat,  are  four  and  a  half  feet  long ;  some  have  been  seen  whose  branches 
were  nine  feel  long.  No  horses  are  capable  of  outrunning  them.  The  other 
wild  animals  are  the  tapir,  which  is  extremely  fierce  and  voracious,  and  whose 
skin  will  resist  a  musket-ball ;  great  numbers  of  monkeys,  bears,  wolves,  foxes, 
and  wild  cats  ;  all  these,  except  the  tapir,  are  common  to  both  continents.    The 


28  AGRICULTURE,    MANUFACTURES    AND    COMMERCE. 

jaguar  is  met  with  in  the  low-er  part  of  Mexico.  Of  the  hog,  there  are  only 
two  varieties  in  Mexico,  the  one  introduced  from  Europe,  and  the  other  from 
the  Phillippine  Islands.  They  have  muUiplied  amazingly  on  the  table  lands, 
and  in  some  parts  an  extensive  commerce  is  carried  on  in  bacon. 

Birds. 

The  feathered  tribes  are  so  numerous,  and  of  such  various  appearances,  that 
Mexico  has  been  called  the  country  of  birds  as  Africa  is  of  quadrupeds.  Or- 
nithologists describe  more  than  200  species  of  birds  as  peculiar  to  Mexico. 
Aquatic  birds  are  very  numerous,  and  of  great  velocity.  There  are,  at  least, 
twenty  species  of  ducks,  and  vast  numbers  of  geese.  Mexico  has  furnished 
Europe  with  the  largest  of  domestic  birds,  the  turkey,  which  is  found  wild  on 
the  banks  of  the  Cordilleras,  from  the  Isthmus  of  Panama  to  Canada. 

Insects. 

As  wax  is  an  object  of  great  importance  in  a  Catholic  country,  the  rearing 
of  bees  has  been  always  a  principal  concern.  Bee-hives  are  extremely  pro- 
ductive in  the  province  of  Yucatan.  The  rearing  of  the  cochineal  insect  is  of 
great  antiquity  in  Mexico,  but  was  formerly  more  general  than  now.  It  seems 
to  thrive  only  between  the  tropics,  and  there  at  an  elevation  of  5000  feet  above 
the  sea.  In  the  intendency  of  Oaxaca  alone  there  is  annually  exported  upwards 
of  100,000  pounds  weight.  The  attending  this  insect  forms  the  chief  occu- 
pation of  a  large  part  of  the  Indian  population. 

Fisheries. 

The  Mexican  fisheries  are  of  no  importance.  The  pearl  fisheries  of  Cali- 
fornia were  much  more  productive  anciently  than  now  ;  but  they  hive  been 
long  since  abandoned.  The  western  coasts  of  Mexico  abound  with  spermaceti 
whales,  but  the  fishery  is  almost  entirely  in  the  hands  of  the  Americans. 


CHAPTER  V. 

AGRICULTURE,    MANUFACTURES    AND   COMMERCE. 
AGRICULTURE. 

Of  the  agriculture  of  Mexico,  very  little  can  be  said.  They  have  cultivated 
almost  every  thing,  more  than  their  soil,  hence  they  have  no  system  of  agricul- 
ture. The  plough  in  universal  use,  is  the  same  that  was  used  two  thousand  years 
ago,  and  is  simply  a  wooden  wedge,  sometimes  without  a  particle  of  iron.  The  hoe 
is  a  wooden  staff,  with  an  iron  spike  in  the  end;  the  only  animal  used  in  plough- 
ing, is  the  ox,  although  the  planter  may  have  thousands  of  horses  and  mules. 
The  grains  chiefly  cultivated  are  wheat,  barley,  and  Indian  corn.  Rye  and  oats 
are  not  cultivated  at  all,  or  at  least,  very  little,  and  many  travellers  have  asserted 
that  they  have  never  seen  either  in  any  part  of  Mexico.  Barley  is  the  only  grain 
used  as  food  for  horses,  and  wheat  straw  is  the  fodder.  Wheat  is  used  for  bread 
by  the  better  classes,  whilst  Indian  meal  forms  the  only  bread  used  by  the 
masses ;  yet,  notwithstanding  this,  there  is  not,  up  to  this  hour,  a  corn-mill  in 
all  Mexico  ;  but  as  a  substitute,  the  corn  is  soaked  in  water,  and  is  then  ground 
<m  a  smooth  stone  with  a  long  roller,  made  also  of  stone. 


AGRICULTURE,    MANUFACTURES    AND    COMMERCE. 


29 


MEXICAN       PLOUGH. 

c  (a)  The  handle  ;  (b)  the  beam 

to  whu'h  the  oxen  are  uUuched  ; 
(c)  pill  liy  which  the  hnuni  |8  at- 
tuched  lolhp  yoke  ;  (rf)  wi'dgen, 
&.C.,  by  which  the  hnHiii  is  ele- 
vated or  lowered,  «»  occasion 
IP(|iiireK;  («)  the  iii^iiii-piece  or 
sole;  (/)  the  shoe  nflixcd  to  the 
maiii-piecu — thi»  i»  made  ofiron, 
and  is  the  only  purt  o(  the 
plough  compo&ed  of  that  mate- 
''"''  t  (if  )  section  of  the  sole. 

The  cultivation  of  the  maguey  alse,  or  Argave  Americana,  is  conducted  with 
great  profit,  and  there  are,  throughout  the  country,  vast  plantations  of  it.  This 
plant  is  one  of  the  most  useful  in  Mexico.  It  makes  an  excellent  fence  while 
'  growing.  After  it  arrives  at  perfection,  which  is  usually  about  seven  years, 
pulque  (a  beverage  in  common  use)  is  extracted  from  its  stalk  ;  the  leaves  are 
then  either  cut  up  as  food  for  animals,  or  are  manufactured  into  rope,  twine, 
coarse  Indian  cloth,  or  wrapping  paper  of  unequalled  toughness. 

The  importation  of  raw  cotton  is  positively  prohibited  ;  in  consequence  of 
which  many  persons  have  been  induced  to  commence  plantations ;  but  it  is 
doubtful  whether  the  agricultural  habits  of  the  people  will  permit  them  to 
flourish. 

Hitherto  the  cotton  crop  of  this  republic  has  not  greatly  exceeded  in  value  the 
sum  of  81,750,000.  Its  value  is  quite  variable.  At  Tepic,  on  the  west  coast, 
it  has  been  as  low  as  $15  per  quintal;  at  Vera  Cruz,  on  the  east  coast, 
$22  and  $34 ;  while  at  Puebla,  and  in  the  capital,  it  has  risen  to  $40  and 
even  $48. 

The  culture  of  silk  is  just  beginning  to  attract  attention.  A  company  has  just 
been  formed  for  operating  upon  a  large  scale,  and  have  sent  an  agent  to  France 
as  preliminary  to  that  object.  Mexico  would  be  a  glorious  country  for  the  silk- 
worm, and  the  business  could  not  fail  to  be  profitable.  The  Morus  Multicatilis 
would  supply  food  for  the  worm,  at  least  ten  months  in  the  year,  so  that  three  or 
four  crops  could  be  raised  annually. 


MANUFACTURES. 

The  Government  of  Mexico  has  steadily  persevered  in  fostering  her  domestic 
manufactures,  despite  the  efforts  of  foreign  capitalists.  The  administration  of 
Santa  Anna  was  very  energetic  in  protecting  the  manufacturing  interest,  both 
by  a  high  tariff,  and  by  his  efforts  to  suppress  the  smuggling  of  English  and 
American  fabrics.  Such,  however,  has  been  the  uniform  policy  of  every  admin- 
istration, so  that  the  manufacturers  regard  their  establishments  as  perfectly  safe, 
and  their  future  success  as  certain  :  the  manufacturers  have  already  outstripped 
the  production  of  the  cotton  planters  of  Mexico,  but  notwithstanding  this,  the 
importation  of  the  raw  material  is  prohibited.  In  1842,  some  foreign  rherchants 
induced  the  President  to  consent  to  the  admission,  on  more  favourable  terms,  of 
coarse  cotton  goods  ;  but  the  united  opposition  of  the  manufacturers  defeated  the 
arrangement. 

Cotton  goods  which  sell  in  the  United  States  for  six  cents  per  yard,  are  worth 
thirty  cents  in  Mexico.  This  results  from  the  high  price  of  the  raw  material, 
which  sells  at  from  forty  to  fifty  cents  per  pound,  and  from  the  circumstance  that 
all  the  machinery  is  imported  and  transported  by'land  at  an  enormous  cost ;  and 
also  to  the  difficulty  and  delay  of  repairing  it,  when  it  gets  out  of  order.  The 
annexed  table,  obtained  from  the  most  authentic  sources,  by  Mr.  Mayer, 
exhibits  the  number  of  manufactories,  &;c.,  in  each  Department,  in  1843. 


30  AGRICULTURE,    MANUFACTURES    AND    COMMERCE. 


STATISTICS    OF    MEXICAN    FACTORIES. 


of  Factories  in  each  depa 

rtment. 

Spindles  established. 

Spindles  in  erection. 

Total. 

In  Mexico,     - 

12 

30,156 

.          . 

30,156 

In  Puebla, 

21 

35,672 

12,240      - 

47,912 

In  Vera  Cruz, 

7 

17,860 

5,200      - 

23,060 

In  Guadalaxara, 

5 

11,312 

6,500      - 

17,812 

In  Qucretara,     - 

2 

7,620 

»        -       - 

7,620 

In  Durango, 

4 

2,520 

. 

2,520 

In  Guanajuato, 

1 

1,200 

- 

1,200 

In  Sonora, 

1 

1,000 

- 

1,000 

53  107,340  23,940  131,280 

It  must  be  remarked  that  there  are  three  manufacturing  establishments  in 
Durango,  the  number  of  spindles  in  which  are  included  in  the  above  table,  be- 
cause no  definite  information  concerning  them  had  been  received.  They  may, 
however,  be  calculated  at  about  4000,  which,  added  to  the  131,280,  will  give  a 
grand  total  of  at  least  135,000.  The  number  of  looms  also  ia  the  republic  is 
not  presented,  because  data  have  been  furnished  only  in  relation  to  those  moved 
by  machinery.  An  immense  number  of  hand-looms  are  in  constant  operation 
throughout  the  republic. 

The  value  of  the  Mexican  manufacturing  establishments  may  be  stated,  in 
round  numbers,  at  $10,000,000.  The  number  of  persons  employed  in  every 
way  in  manufactories,  cannot  be  short  of  30,000. 

There  are  two  paper  factories  near  the  capital ;  one  at  Puebla,  and  one  in 
Guadalaxara.  Their  productions  are  said  to  be  very  good,  but  by  no  means 
adequate  to  the  consumption  of  the  country  :  immense  quantities  of  paper  is  used 
in  the  manufacture  of  segars. 

Glass  factories  are  numerous  in  Mexico  and  Puebla,  where  large  quantities  of 
window  glass  and  common  tumblers  are  made.  Their  produce,  however,  is  not 
sufficient  for  the  wants  of  the  country. 

Woollen  blankets,  and  coarse  woollen  cloths  are  also  manufactured  in  Mexico. 

There  are  several  manufactories  of  cotton  balls,  or  thread,  in  Mexico,  but  they 
are  not  of  much  importance. 

The  manufacture  of  tobacco  and  gunpowder  occupy  a  considerable  number  of 
persons  ;  but  the  Government  has  reserved  to  itself  these  branches  of  industry, 
which  it  finds  an  abundant  source  of  revenue. 

Soap  is  very  extensively  manufactured,  and  the  country  possesses  great  advan- 
tage for  this  business.  Tallow  is  very  cheap,  owing  to  the  great  number  of 
cattle.  The  carbonate  of  soda  abounds  on  the  table-land  of  Anahuac,  and  in  the 
plain  of  Chihuahua,  as  well  as  in  many  other  places.  Soap  is  made  not  only 
in  the  large  established  manufactories  in  Mexico,  Puebla,  and  Guadalaxara,  but 
also  in  many  other  places.  Even  from  the  poor  and  thinly  inhabited  country 
of  Lower  California,  soap  forms  one  of  the  most  important  articles  of  export. 

The  power  made  use  of  for  the  movement  of  the  factories,  is  water,  which  is 
abundant  for  that  purpose  all  over  the  country,  proceeding  from  small  streams, 
falling  from  the  mountains  into  the  neighbouring  plains. 

COMMERCE. 

A  nation  engaged  in  the  pursuits  of  war,  whether  foreign  or  domestic,  soon 
loses  its  relish  for  the  cultivation  of  the  peaceful  arts :  Agriculture,  Manufac- 
tures, Commerce,  and  all  other  industrial  pursuits  of  the  country,  which  are 


AGRICULTURE,    MANUFACTURES    AND    COMMERCE. 


31 


essential  to  its  ^eatness  and  power,  arc  sacrificed  upon  the  altar  of  blood.  Such 
is  the  condition  of  Mexico ;  her  continual  revolutionary  disturbances  have 
decreased  the  wealth  of  the  people — involved  them  in  pecuniary  embarrassments 
— arrested  the  business  pursuits  of  the  enterprising,  and  turned  the  public  mind 
into  a  channel  adverse  to  the  occupations  of  peace  :  it  is  not  surprising,  there- 
fore, that  Mexico  has  but  little  commerce. 

In  1832  and  1S33,  the  Custom  House  receipts  amounted  to  about  twelve 
millions  of  dollars  per  annum.  In  1S39,  on  account  of  the  French  blockade, 
they  fell  to  near  three  millions  ;  in  1S40  they  rose  again  to  seven  millions,  and 
in  1841  they  fell  to  about  five,  which  sum  may  be  divided  among  the  different 
ports  as  follows,  to  wit : — 


Vera  Cruz 

Tampico 

Mata  moras 

Guyamas 

Monterey 

Acapuico 

San  Bias 

Total 


tA-rs£ 


S3,.329,802 

-  883,039 
312,403 

-  55,814 » 
96,853 

-  17,182 
J08,8^5_ 

$5,287,097  r^ 


This  corresponds  to  about  twelve  millions  three  hundred  thousand  dollars  of 
importation  annually,  divided  (according  to  an  estimate)  in  the  following 
manner  : — 


From  England 

"  France 

"  Hamburgh 

"  China 

"  United  States 

"  Spain 

"  Genoa  and  other  ports 

Total 


-  $4,500,000 

3,000,000 

-  1,500,000 
1,000,000 

-      800,000 
500,000 

-  1,000;000 

$12,300,000 


The    expense   to  the  gov'ernment  for   the  collection  of  this   revenue,   was 
$148,290. 

The  Exports  from  the  Republic,  chiefly  its  own  productions,  may  be  rated  at — 

Specie,  through  Vera  Cruz  -  -  -  -  $4,000,000 
do  do  Mazatlan  and  San  Bias  -  3,500,000 
Silver  and  g-)ld  through  other  ports,  -  -  5,000,000 
Silver  through  Tampico  .  -  -  -  7,000,000 
Cochineal,  Jalap,  Vanilla,  Sarsaparilla  and  Hides  1,000,000 
Sundries 500,000 


Total 


$2^,000,000  ♦vr-*^*. 


From  these  tables  it  appears  that  the  w^hole  export  from   Mexico  in   1842 
amounted  to  $20,000,000,  of  which  the  gold  and  silver  amounted  to  $18,500,000,- 
which  leaves  a  balance  of  other  products  of  only  $1,500,000,  which  is  all  that 
can  be  fairly  set  down  as  the  result  of  Mexican  industry,  the  precious  metals 
being  produced  by  foreign  enterprise  almost  entirely. 


d2  AGBICtJLTURE,    MANUFACTURES    AND   COMMERCE. 


Commerce  of  the  different  Ports. 

Vera  Cruz. — From  the  1st  of  January  to  the  1st  of  July,  1842,  there  were 
102  arrivals  at  Vera  Cruz,  and  169  departures,  of  which  19  were  American  and 
28  English,  20  Mexican  and  13  French. 

Tampico. — During  the  year  ending  31st  December,  1841,  there  were  91  arri- 
vals and  departures  at  Tampico,  of  which  19  were  British  men-of-war  and 
packets,  9  British  merchantmen,  21  American,  and  IS  Mexican. 

Matamoras. — In  1841,  ihe  whole  trade  of  this  port  was  carried  on  in  vessels 
from  tlie  United  Slates,  32  in  number.     The  exports  consisted  of: — 

Specie S352,766 

Hides 117,334 

Wool 15,943 

Horses  and  Mules  _____  830 


Total  S483,843 

The  imports  from  the  United  States  amounted  to  $426,945,  and  of  the  foUow- 
intr  articles  :— Silks  valued  at  S3,380  ;  Woollens,  do  S29,194  ;  Cottons,  do 
$205,451 ;  -Linens,  do  871,312;  Hardware  and  Machinery,  do  S19,311 ;  Paper, 
do  $1,680  ;  Jewelry,  do  $452;  and  sundries,  amounting  in  value  to  $96,165. 

Santa  Fe  Trade. 

The  overland  trade  between  the  United  States  and  the  northern  provinces  of 
Mexico,  and  more  especially  with  Santa  Fe,  commenced  about  the  year  1804; 
its  origin  having  been  rather  the  result  of  accident  than  of  any  organized  plan. 
It  appears  that  a  man  of  the  name  of  James  Pursley,  after  wandering  over  the 
wild  and  unexplored  regions  west  of  the  Mississippi,  finally  fell  in  with  some  In- 
dians on  the  Platte  river,  near  its  source  in  the  Rocky  Mountains  ;  from  them  he 
obtained  information  respecting  the  settlements  in  New  Mexico,  and  finally  set 
out  with  a  party  of  these  savages  for  Santa  Fe,  which  he  reached  in  1805,  where 
he  remained  until  his  death.  He  is  supposed  to  have  been  the  first  American  that 
ever  crossed  the  desert  plains  into  the  Spanish  provinces.  It  is  said,  however, 
that  a  merchant  of  Kaskaskia,  named  Morrison,  had  obtained  some  information 
of  the  trappers,  in  relation  to  Santa  Fe,  and  that  as  early  as  1804,  he  had  dis- 
patched a  French  Creole  up  the  Platte  river,  with  directions  to  push  his  way 
into  Santa  Fe.  He  was  successful  in  his  enterprise,  but  he  never  returned  to 
his  employer,  or  accounted  to  him  for  the  proceeds  of  his  adventure,  but  with 
the  capital  thus  acquired  he  set  up  business  for  himself,  raised  a  large  family, 
and  after  some  twenty  years  died  a  very  w^ealthy  man. 

In  1806,  Capt.  Pike,  who  was  afterwards  promoted  to  the  rank  of  General, 
and  died  in  the  achievement  of  the  glorious  victory  at  York,  Upper  Canada,  in 
1813,  was  sent,  in  1806,  on  an  exploring  expedition  up  the  Arkansas.  He 
finally,  after  much  suffering,  descended  upon  the  Rio  del  Norle,  with  his  party, 
then  but  fifteen  in  number;  and  believing  himself  within  the  bounds  of  the 
United  States,  erected  a  small  fortification  for  his  company,  until  the  opening 
of  the^spring  of  1607  should  enable  him  to  continue  his  way  to  Natchitoches. 
As  he  was  in  the  Mexican  settlements,  he  was  discovered,  and  a  force  sent  to 
take  him  to  Santa  Fe,  which  was  accomplished  by  treachery.  His  papers  were 
seized,  and  he  and  his  party  were  sent  under  an  escort  to  the  United  States. 

Upon  his  return  he  published  a  narrative,  in  which  he  gave  the  most  glowing 
descriptions  of  this  new  region.  His  narrative  created  great  excitement  in  the 
vi^estern  country;  and  in  1812,  a  regular  expedition  w'as  fitted  out  under  the 
auspices  of  Messrs.  M'Knight,  Beard,  Chambers,  and  others,  who,  following  the 


AGRICULTURE,    MANUFACTURES    AND    COMJIERCE.  33 

directions  of  Capt.  Pilce,  finally  reached  Santa  Fe  in  safety;  but  they  were 
destined  to  experience  severe  disappointments  and  trials.  A  revolution  bad  just 
taken  place,  and  they  were  seized  as  spies,  their  goods  confiscated,  and  ihem- 
selves  thrown  into  prison,  where  they  remained  for  nine  years,  when  another 
revolution  placed  Iturbide  in  the  ascendant,  and  they  were  released. 

In  1S2J,  twry  other  expeditions  set  out,  and  not  only  reached  Santa  Fe,  but 
thr-ir  homes  \\\  safety,  after  having  realized  a  very  handsome  profit  on  their 
adventure.  This  stimulated  others,  and  from  the  year  1822,  we  may  date  the 
virtual  commencement  of  the  Sanla  Fe  trade.  At  the  present  time,  the  inter- 
course is  conducted  on  a  systematic  plan,  a  large  capital  being  invested  in  ihe 
trade.  As  the  route  leads  over  a  vast  desert,  where  the  traveller  is  exposed  to 
the  depredations  of  roving  savages,  those  engaged  in  ihis  trade  find  it  necessary 
to  unite  their  forces,  and  to  travel  in  large  companies,  like  the  caravans  of  the 
East,  well  provided  with  the  means  of  defence.  Their  goods  are  transported  in 
covered  waggons  drawn  by  horses,  or  on  the  backs  of  mules,  and  usually  consist 
of  a  great  variety  of  merchandize  for  the  supply  of  the  Mexican  markets,  such 
as  cotton  and  woollen  stuff's,  tobacco,  spirits,  jewelry,  &;c.,  for  which  returns  are 
made  in  specie  and  bullion. 

The  caravans  generally  take  their  departure  from  th-^  town  of  Independence, 
on  the  Missouri  river,  379  miles  above  St.  Louis,  and  on  the  western  borders 
of  the  state  of  Missouri.  The  length  of  the  route  from  that  place  is  877  miles, 
and  the  time  consumed  by  the  journey  is  from  two  to  three  months. 

The  Santa  Fe  trade,  though  more  or  less  fluctuating  from  its  origin,  continued 
to  present  an  average  increase  down  to  1831.  During  the  same  period  the  price 
of  goods  continued  to  go  down  in  a  more  rapid  ratio.  Since  1831,  the  sales 
have  continued  steadily  to  fall,  to  the  latest  period  of  the  trade.  Medium  cali- 
coes average  about  37  1-2  cents,  and  plain  domestic  cottons  31  cents  per  yard. 
100  per  cent  upon  United  States  cost  is  now  considered  as  yielding  excellent 
profits,  which  generally  leave  a  net  profit  of  30  or  40  per  cent. 

In  1822,  the  amount  of  merchandize  sent  to  Santa  Fe  was  estimated  at 
S15,000,  ahcf  it  gradually  increased  up  to  1843,  when  it  amounted  to  S450,000. 

The  following  estimate  for  the  year  1846,  was  made  by  Mr.  David  Waldo,  an 
energetic  merchant,  who  has  been  for  twenty  years  engaged  in  the  overland 
trade : — 

The  trade  to  Santa  Fe,  this  year,  will  be  175  large  mule  waggons,  1,700 
mules,  500  men,  200  large  ox  waggons,  2,000  oxen,  1,000  yokes. 

Value  of  goods  (first  cost)  -         -         -  $937,500 

Do     waggons  _         .         _         .         _         75,000 

Do     1,750  mules 70,000 

Do  1,000  yoke  of  oxen  -  -  -  -  35,000 
Hire  of  500  men  for  the  trip  -  .  .  _  75,000 
Expenses  of  freight,  insurance,  &c.,  to  Indepen- 
dence (10  per  cent)  -  -  .  _  93,750 
Harness  &c.,  for  2,000  mules  and  horses  -  -  15,000 
Provisions — bacon,  flour,  &c.,  on  the  trip  out — 

550  men,  at  $20  each        -         -         .         .         11,000 

Small  outfit 50,000       . 

1,302,250 


The  return  for  this  is  exclusively  bullion. 

The  net  profits  will  be 400,000 


Total $1,652,250 


MINES     AND     MINERALS. 

The  Indian  trade,  exclusive  of  the  Missouri  river, 

employs  about  200  men,  at  $200  a  year  each  $40,0a0 

Capital  invested, 300,000 

Oxen,  mules,  waggons,  &c.         -         -         -         -  30,000 


Total 


$3^0,000 


N.  B.  This  does  not  include  the  numerous  outfits  and  parties  from  Arkan- 
sas and  Texas,  nor  any  of  the  extensive  trade  among  the  civilized  and  located 
Indians. 

To  Oregon,  this  year,  I  estimate  there  will  be— 

500  waggons,  value $50,000 

1,500  yoke  of  oxen 45,000 

5,000  loose  cattle,  at  $5  .         .         -         -         25,000 

Mules  and  horses  -         -         -         _         _     10,000 

Outfit,  provisions,  &c.      -         -        -        -         »         25.000 


Total $155,000 

25,000  persons. 

To  California  much  the  same  as  to  Oregon,  but  one  quarter  less — $116,250. 
1000  persons. 

Grand  total  of  Property/. 

Mexican  trail  _        -        -        -        _         $1,752,250 

Indian  country,  .         .         -         -         .         390,000 

Oregon  -         - 155,000 

California 116,700 


Total $2,413^50 

In  this  I  make  no  mention  of  the  arms,  equipments,  money,  and  personal 
effects  of  the  great  number  of  persons,  emigrants,  travellers,  and  others  passing 
across  the  plains.  These  added  to  the  above,  will  swell  the  amount  beyond 
$3,000,000.  The  number  of  persons  of  all  kinds  who  will  pass  out  through  the 
fndian  country  will  exceed  5,000. 

Remember  that  these  statements  refer  exclusively  to  the  country  and  trade 
carried  on  within  it,  which  is  beyond  the  military  establishments  of  the  frontier, 
and  out  of  the  beat  of  the  troops.  Self-protection  is  all  that  we  have  to  rely 
upon  for  the  safety  of  our  lives  and  property. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

MINES      AND     MINERALS. 

The  Mineral  wealth  of  Mexico  is  very  great ;  her  mountains  contain  almost 
every  mineral  in  use  in  agriculture,  manufacture  and  the  fine  arts.  But  the 
mines  of  iron  and  lead  have  been  almost  wholly  neglected,  while  those  of  silver  and 
gold  have  been  sedulously  wrought.  Copper  is  found  in  considerable  quantities, 
and  tin  is  abundant ;  extensive  iron  mines  exist  in  the  internal  provinces,  but 
coal  is  very  rare.  Among  the  precious  stones  a  few  diamonds  are  foun^},  with 
amethysts,  and  turquoises.    The  mountains  produce  jasper,  marble,  alabaster, 


MINESAND     MINERALS.  35 

magnets,  steatite,  jade,  quicksilver  and  talc ;  but  it  is  the  mines  of  silver  and 
gold  which  constitute  the  chief  wealth  of  this  country.  It  is  not  known  at  what 
period  the  mines  of  Mexico  began  to  be  worked,  or  were  first  discovered.  It  is 
well  known,  however,  that  the  natives  did  not  content  themselves  with  those 
minerals  whicii  they  found  in  their  native  state,  on  the  surface  of  the  earth,  and 
particularly  in  the  beds  of  rivers  and  ravines  formed  by  torrents, — but  applied 
themselves  to  subterraneous  operations  in  working  veins,  cutting  galleries,  and 
digging  pits,  of  communication  and  ventilation,  and  thai  they  possessed  instru- 
ments adapted  for  cutting  rocks. 

All  the  Mexican  mines  are  situated  between  the  extreme  points  of  14  d.  and 
36  d.  N.  lat.,  none  having  as  yet  been  discovered  to  the  south  or  north  of  these 
latitudes.  Within  this  space  are  contained  about  350  renh,  or  places  celebrated 
for  mines  in  their  vicinity ;  and  the  number  of  mines  comprehended  in  these 
reals  is  nearly  three  thousand.  In  1804,  about  500  of  these  mines  were  worked 
in  different  places. 

Under  the  old  regime,  the  mines  were  divided  into  37  districts,  over  which 
were  placed  the  same  number  of  councils,  called  Diputaciones  de  Mineria.  The 
following  table  exhibits  a  view  of  the  mining  districts  and  reals  in  Mexico, 
according  to  Humboldt : — 

Reals. 

-  19 
14 

-  28 
60 

-  44 
61 

-  68 
27 

9  37  337 

In  the  intendencies  of  Puebla,  Vera  Cruz  and  Old  California,  there  were  no 
Diputaciones,  as  in  other  intendencies  ;  but  the  number  of  reals  amounted  to  12, 
making  a  grand  total  of  349. 

The  mines  of  Mexico  are  geologically  divided  by  Humboldt  into  eight  groups, 
almost  all  placed  either  on  the  ridge,  or  on  the  western  side  of  the  Cordillera  of 
Anahuac,  the  whole  forming  a  surface  of  12,000  square  leagues,  or  100,000 
British  square  miles.  These  groups  are  not  to  be  considered  as  forming  one 
connected  and  continuous  surface,  but  as  so  many  distinct  localities,  with  vast 
tracts  of  intervening  spaces,  almost  totally  destitute  of  metalliferous  veins.  Of 
these  eight  groups,  that  which  contains,  within  a  surface  of  16,000  square  miles, 
the  mines  of  Guanaxuato,  Zacatecas,  and  Catorce,  is  by  far  the  richest,  and  when 
Humboldt  Avrote,  supplied  more  than  one  half  of  the  metallic  produce  of  New 
Spain.  The  principal  rocks  which  at  present  furnish  almost  all  the  silver  of 
Mexico,  are  porphyritic,  reposing  on  beds  of  primitive  slate,  grey-wacke  and 
Alpine  lime-stone.  The  most  celebrated  mines  are  situated  at  absolute  heights: 
of  from  5904  to  9842  feet  above  the  sea. 

Mines  of  Guanaxuato. 

These  are  the  richest  mines  now  known  in  Mexico.     They  were  discovered 

in    the    middle    of  the    sixteenth    century,  and    have    alone  produced   to    the 

amount  of  about  $300,000,000  ;    and  from  1786  to  1803,  a  period  of  eighteen 

years,  the  annual  average  was  84,731,624,  which  is  six  and  a  half  times  more 


Intendencies. 

Districts. 

1.  Guanaxuato 

' 

1 

2.   Zacatecas 

. 

4 

3.   San  Louis  Potosi 

- 

5 

4.  Mexico    - 

- 

7 

5.  Guadalajara 

- 

3 

6.  Durango 

. 

5 

7.   Sonora 

» 

7 

S.  Valladolid 

. 

4 

9.  Oaxaca 

- 

1 

36  MINESANDMINEEALS. 

than  the  annual  product  of  all  the  veins  of  Hungary  and  Transylvania  put  toge- 
ther.  The  mine  of  Valencia,  in  Guanaxuato,  originally  belonged  to  two  indi- 
viduals, namely,  the  Count  de  Valenciana  and  M.  Otero.  It  was  not  worked 
till  1760,  and  'then  by  a  solitary  adventurer.  In  1776  the  works  were  already 
262  feet  in  depth,  and  the  expenses  greatly  exceeded  the  value  of  its  produce. 
In  1768  it  began  to  pay,  in  proportion  as  the  pit  grew  deeper.  From  1771  to 
1804,  this  mine  never  yielded  less  than  $2,900,000  annually  to  the  two  proprie- 
tors, and  in  some  years  the  profits,  clear  of  all  expenses,  amounted  to  $1,200,000. 
This  mine  is  now  wrought  to  the  depth  of  1685  feet. 

Mines  of  Zacatecas. 
The  value  of  the  annual  pro  luce  of  the  mines  of  Zacatecas  is  about  $3,000,000. 
The  mines  of  Sombresete,  in  this  intendency,  are  celebrated  for  the  immense 
riches  of  their  veins,  which  m  the  space  of  a  few  months  left  to  the  family  of 
Fagoago  a  net  profit  oifour  millions  of  dollars. 

Mines  of  Catorce. 
These  mines,  in  the  state  of  San  Louis  Potosi,  are  at  present  the  richest  in 
Mexico,  except  those  of  Guanaxuato.  They  were  discovered  in  1778. 
Several  of  them  were  discovered  in  1773  by  two  poor  individuals,  and  begun  to 
be  wrought,  but  the  produce  was  small  and"  variable.  In  1778,  a  Spanish  miner 
named  Zepeda,  examined  for  three  months  this  mountainous  district,  and  finally 
found  the  surface  of  the  great  vein,  on  which  he  immediately  dug  the  pit  of 
Guadaloupe.  He  drev/  from  it  an  immense  quantity  of  muriatic  silver  and  colo- 
rados  mixed  with  native  geld,  and  gained,  in  a  short  time,  more  than  $500,000, 
From  that  time  it  was  viaorouslv  wrought.  The  famous  mine  of  Purissima, 
has  almost  constantly  yielded  since  1783,  a  net  annua!  profit  of  $200,000,  and 
its  produce  in  1796  amounted  to  $1,200,000,  while  the  expenses  of  working  only 
amounted  to  $80,000.     Since  1802  these  rich  mines  have  been  filled  with  water. 

V.  V  ?       •^^ 

Mines  of  Fachuea. 

These  mines  are  famed  for  their  antiquity,  wealth  and  proximity  to  the  cap- 
ital. Terrible  fires  have  occurred  in  some  of  them,  which  caused  them  to  be 
%vholly  abandoned, 

Biscaina  Vein. 
This  vein,  though  not  so  extensive  as  that  of  Guanaxuato,  is  perhaps  still 
richer,  and  was  successfully  wrought  from  the  16th  to  the  beginning  of  the  18th 
century  In  1726  and  1727  the  two  mines  of  Biscaina  and  Xacol  still  produced 
together  356,182  lbs.  troy  of  silver,— valued  at  $4,672,950.  The  mining_ ope- 
rations, hovv'ever,  were  abandoned  from  the  great  quantity  of  water,  and  the  igno- 
rance of  the  methods  of  drawing  it  ofl";  instead  of  using  pumps,  they  drew  up 
the  water  in  lags  suspended  to  ropes. 

Mines  of  Zimapan. 
The  produce  of  these  mines,  and  of  the  others  in  the  intendency  of  Mexico, 
is  valued  at  $1,120,000  annually. 

Mines  of  Durango. 
The  mineral  district  of  Durango  yields  annually  silver  to  the  amount  of 
$3,825,000.  The  groups  of  Chihuahua,  and  Oaxaca,  are  estimated  to  produce 
annually,  $1,115,000.  In  the  vicinity  of  Chihuahua,  according  to  Pike,  are 
thirteen  silver  mines,  one  of  gold,  and  one  of  copper ;  and  at  Maiepernie,  seven 
silver  mines  and  one  gold  mine. 


MINES     AND     MINERALS. 


37 


Baron  Humboldt  ijivcs  the  gross  produce  of  the  mines  of  Mexico,  from  1690 
to  1S06,  both  years  inclusive,  as  amouniing  to  S1,429,36I, 717,  averaging  about 
$12,216,766  per  annum.  The  highest  amount,  which  was  in  the  year  1796, 
was  825,644,566.  The  produce  of  the  year  1S04  he  stales  at  $24,000,000. 
Mr.  Ward  estimates  the  annual  produce  for  a  few  years  prior  to  1810,  at 
$24,000,000.  After  that  period,  in  consequence  of  the  revolutionary  condition 
of  the  counlry,  it  dwindled  to  ahaost  nothing — in  one  year  to  three  and  a  half 
millions  of  dollars. 

Hon.  Waddy  Thompson  says,  that  "  the  official  returns  for  the  year  1842 
exhibit  an  exportation  of  gold  and  silver  as  registered  in  the  Custom  Houses, 
amounting  to  $18,500,000.  The  facilities  with  which  large  values  of  gold  may 
be  concealed,  and  thus  clandestinely  exported,  and  the  temptation  to  do  so  from 
the  high  duly  of  six  per  cent,  on  exportation,  caused  a  very  large  amount  to  be 
smuggled.  That  this  was  extensively  practised  was  known  to  every  one  in 
Mexico.  To  form  any  accurate  estimate  of  the  amount  of  the  exports  of  specie, 
a  very  large  addition  must  be  made  on  this  account.  Three  or  four  millions 
would  scarcely  cover  it.  Add  to  these  the  amount  retained  in  the  country,  and 
it  will  be  very  safe  to  assume  the  present  produce  of  the  mines  at  from  twenty- 
two  to  twenty-four  millions  of  dollars  per  annum. 

"  The  whole  amount  coined  at  the  mini  in  the  city  of  Mexico,  since  the  Con- 
quest, is  8443,000,000  ;  since  1690,  $295,968,750.'' 

The  produce  of  the  mines  of  Mexico,  (says  Mr.  Thompson)  "  is  quite  as  large, 
or  larger,  now  than  at  any  other  period,  taking  an  average  of  ten  years,  but  not 
so  profitable  to  the  proprietors,  owing  to  the  immense  investments  in  machinery, 
and  the  greater  labour  of  raising  the  ores  now  compared  with  the  rude  and 
unexpcnsive  machinery  hitherto  used,  and  the  comparatively  small  labour  of 
taking  out  the  ores.  The  company,  which  now  owns  the  great  mine  of  Real 
del  Monte,  have,  in  the  last  few  years,  expended  in  machinery  and  other  ways, 
several  millions  of  dollars.  The  shaft  of  that  mine  is  nearly  a  thousand  yards 
deep. 

"  Not  one  fiftieth  of  the  mines  are  worked,  which  is  attributed,  in  a  great 
degree,  to  the  high  price  of  quicksilver.  This  is  caused  by  the  monopoly,  by 
the  Rothschilds,  of  the  quicksilver  mines  of  Spain,  from  which  the  article  is 
chiefly  supplied. 

The  silver  extracted  in  the  thirty-seven  districts  of  mines  was  deposited  in  the 
provincial  treasuries  of  the  intendencies ;  and  it  is  from  these  receipts  that  we 
must  judge  of  the  quantity  of  silver  furnished  by  the  different  mines.  From 
1785  to  1789,  there  were  received  in  the  deposits  of  eleven  provincial  treasuries, 
the  following  quantities  of  silver,  valuing  the  marks  at  8  1-2  dollars  : — 


Guanaxuato 
San  Louis  Potosi 
Zacatecas    - 
Mexico   - 
Durango     - 
Rosario  - 
Guadalajara 
Pachuca 
Bolanos 
Sombreste 
Zimapan 

Total       - 


Marks. 

2,469,000 

1,515,000 

1,205,000 

1,055,000 

922,000 

668,000 

-     509,000 

455,000 

364,000 

320,000 

218,000 

9,700,000 


Dollars. 

20,986,500 

12,877,500 

10,242.500 

8,967,500 

7,835,778 

5,678,000 

.      4,326,500 

3.867,000 

.       3,094,000 

•    2,720,000 

2,108,000 

82,70lJ6B6' 


38  MINESANDMINERALS. 


Gold  Mines. 


The  Mexican  gold  is,  for  the  most  part,  obtained  from  alluvial  grounds,  by 
means  of  washing.  These  grounds  are  common  in  the  State  of  Sonora.  In 
the  plain  of  Cineguiella,  grains  of  gold  of  such  a  size  were  found  at  the  depth 
of  nineteen  inches  from  the  surface,  that  some  of  them  weighed  nine  marks 
each,  equivalent  in  value  to  more  than  $1000.  In  several  other  places  large 
pieces  of  gold  have  been  found.  Gold  is  also  found  in  the  veins  which  inter- 
sect the  mountains  of  primitive  rock.  These  veins  have  been  found  a  foot  and 
ft  half  thick.  This  metal  is  also  found  either  pure  or  mixed  with  silver  ore,  and 
there  is  scarcely  a  silver  mine  in  Mexico  which  does  not  contain  some  gold. 
The  principal  vein  in  the  mine  of  Villalpando,  is  intersected  by  a  great  number 
of  small  rotten  veins  of  exceeding  richness.  The  argillaceous,  or  clayey  slime, 
with  which  these  veins  are  filled,  contain  so  great  a  quantity  of  gold,  dissemina- 
ted in  impalpable  parcels,  that  the  miners  are  compelled,  when  they  leave  the 
mine  nearly  naked,  to  bathe  themselves  in  large  vessels  to  prevent  any  of  the 
auriferous  clay  from  being  carried  oil  by  them  on  their  bodies. 

Inferior  Minerals. 

Having  given  a  brief  account  of  the  precious  metals,  we  will  now  notice  some 
of  the  more  common  metals.  Copper  is  found  in  a  native  state,  and  in  great 
abundance  in  the  mines  of  Ingora,  and  at  San  Juan  Guetamo,  in  the  province 
i)f  New  Mexico.  The  intendency  of  Guanaxuato  produced  in  1802  about 
230,000  lbs.  of  copper,  and  10,000  lbs.  of  tin.  Tin  is  also  abundant  in  the 
internal  provinces,  where  a  number  of  valuable  mines  of  this  mineral  are  situ- 
ated, in  the  vicinity  of  Durango.  The  iron  mines  are  very  abundant,  in  Valla- 
ilolid,  Zacatecas  and  Guanaxuato,  but  especially  in  the  internal  provinces.  Lead 
abounds  in  the  calcareous  mountains,  especially  in  the  district  of  Zimapan,  and 
in  the  province  of  Santander.  Zinc,  Antimony,  and  Arsenic,  are  also  found  in 
abundance.  About  100  miles  south  of  Chihuahua,  an  entire  mountain  of  load- 
stone, or  magnetic  iron,  has  been  lately  discovered.  The  strata  are  as  regular- 
as  those  of  limestone. 

In  1S2I  and  1822,  the  Mexicans  determined  to  restore  their  mines  to  their 
former  importance,  but  to  that  end,  fresh  capitalists  were  necessary,  and  to  secure 
them,  an  Act  of  Congress  threw  the  door  open  to  foreigners,  who  were  allowed 
to  become  joint  proprietors  with  natives,  on  terms  highly  favourable  to  the 
adventurers.  This  Act,  as  favourable  to  foreign  speculation,  was  eagerly  taken 
advantage  of  bv  British  capitalists,  and  for  a  time  there  was  a  general  mining 
mania  in  England  ;  a  large  number  of  companies  were  formed,  but  up  to  1827 
there  were  only  soven  great  English  companies,  besides  one  German  and  two 
American  companies  employed  in  working  mines  in  diflerent  parts  of  the  coun- 
try.    These  companies  were  as  follows  : — 

The  Real  del  Mo?ite  Co.— Capital,  S 4,000,000— all  invested.  Mines  located 
in  the  states  of  Mexico,  Zimapan  and  Valladolid.  Hon.  Waddy  Thompson  says 
that  this  company  have  within  a  few  years  past,  expended  in  machinery  and 
in  other  ways,  several  millions  of  dollars.  The  shaft  of  the  Real  del  Monte 
mine  is  nearly  a  thousand  yards  deep. 

Bolanos  Company. — Capital,  8200,000.  Mines  located  in  Guadalajara  and 
Zacatecas. 

Tlcdpujahua  Company. — Capital,  $2,000,000.  Mines  located  in  Mexico  and 
Yalladolid.    ' 


MINESANDMINERALS.  39 

Anglo-Mexican  Company. — Capital,  $5,000,000.  Mines  located  in  Guana- 
juato, Lueretaro,  San  Louis  Potosi,  and  in  two  districts  in  Mexico. 

United  Mexican  Co. — Capital,  $6,000,000.  Mines  in  Guanajuato,  Guadala- 
jara, Zacatecas,  Chihuahua,  Oaxaca,  and  a  large  number  in  Mexico. 

Mexican  Co. — Capital  not  known.  Mines  located,  Vera  Cruz,  Zacatecas  and 
Oaxaca. 

Catorce  Co. — Capital  unknown,  some  $300,000  invested.  Mines  in  Mexico, 
Queretaro,  and  San  Louis  Potosi. 

German  Co.  of  Eberfeld. — Capital  unknown  ;  S637,760  invested.  All  their 
mines  are  in  the  Slate  of  Mexico. 

New  York  Co. — Capital  unknown — investment  small.  They  had  a  small 
number  of  mines  in  Mexico. 

Baltimore  Co. — Capital  unknown — a  few  mines  in  Mexico.     Director,  Mr. 

KeATIiNG. 

Method  of  ivorking  the  Mines. 

Mr.  Poinsett,  who  visited  the  mines  of  Guanaxuato  in  1823,  gives  the  following 
interesting  account  of  their  appearance,  and  the  method  of  working  them  : 

"  The  excavations  extend  from  south-east  to  north-west,  1600  yards,  and  800 
yards  in  a  south-west  direction.  There  are  three  parallels  or  plains,  worked  on 
ramifications  of  the  principal  vein.  The  vcta  madre,  or  mother  vein,  was  here 
found,  not  more  than  22  feet  wide,  and  without  any  ramification  from  the  surface 
of  the  soil,  to  the  depth  of  557  feet ;  at  this  deptli,  it  divided  into  three  branches, 
and  the  entire  mass,  from  165  to  to  195  feet  thick ;  of  these  three  branches,  not 
more  than  one  is  in  general  very  productive. 

"  They  have  all  the  same  angle,  (45  d.,)  but  vary  in  thickness  from  nine  to 
forty  yards.  Four  shafts  descend  to  these  parallels,  the  first  called  San  Antonio, 
of  744  feet  perpendicular  depth — the  cost  of  this  shaft  was  8396,000.  The 
square  shaft  of  Santo  Christo,  492  feet  deep,  cost  $95,000.  The  hexagon  shaft 
of  our  Lady  of  Guadeloupe,  1131  feet  perpendicular  depth,  cost  8700,000.  San 
Jose,  an  octagon  shaft,  of  more  than  ISOO  perpendicular  depth,  and  300  feet  in 
the  direction  of  the  veta  madre,  which  is  an  angle  of  45  d.,  cost  .$1,200,000. 

"  To  understand  the  necessity  of  sinking  so  many  shafts  of  different  depths,  it 
may  be  necessary  to  explain,  that  in  following  the  dip  of  the  vein,  which  is  first 
discovered  on  the  surface,  and  is  almost  invariably  an  angle  of  45  d.,  the  work 
is  impeded  after  a  certain  depth  by  water.  A  shaft  is  then  sunk,  so  as  to  inter- 
cept the  vein  at  the  termination  of  the  gallerv,  in  order  to  free  the  mine  from 
water.  The  work  is  then  continued  until  it  becomes  necessary  to  sink  another 
shaft  still  deeper,  to  clear  the  lower  galleries.  At  the  termination  of  each  shaft 
a  great  many  parallel  galleries  branch  out  on  ramifications  of  the  mother  vein. 

"  From  these  parallels  a  vast  number  of  smaller  galleries  branch  out,  worked 
to  a  greater  or  less  distance,  as  the  ore  proved  to  be  of  good  or  bad  quality  ;  and 
many  of  them  were  pierced  with  a  view  of  discovering  other  veins.  Besides  the 
shafts,  there  are  two  descents  by  steps,  winding  down  to  the  last  parallel.  On 
leaving  the  house  of  the  administrador,  we  were  conducted  to  the  first  flight  of 
steps  ;  and  preceded  by  four  men  carrying  torches,  we  descended  to  the  first 
parallel,  and  stopped  where  four  galleries  branch  ofT. 

"  Our  torch-bearers  were  sent  off  to  the  extremity  of  these  galleries,  that  we 
might  form  an  idea  of  their  extent  in  a  straight  line.  They  are  both  extensive 
and  solid;  the  vaults  are  of  porphyry,  and  the  bottom  of  gray  slate.  In  some 
places  where  the  ore  proved  very  rich,  it  has  been  taken  front  the  sides  and 
vaults,  and  the  voids  filled  up  with  masonry,  and  beams  worked  in  so  as  to  form 
a  firm  support  to  the  sides  and  roof.     These  galleries  have  been  blasted  ouf 


40  M  I  N  E  S     A  N  D     M  I  N  E  i:  A  L  S  . 

and  must  have  cost  great  labour,  for  the  whole  mountain  is  of  porphyry  to  a 
great  depth. 

"  The  exterior  is  covered  with  a  crust  of  brescia,  which  extends  not  more  than 
four  or  five  feet  from  the  surface.  The  ore  is  for  the  most  part  extracted  by 
drilling  and  blasting;  somelimes,  but  very  rarely,  the  wedge  can  be  used.  On 
our  return,  we  plodded  painfully  up  these  stairs,  which  the  cargadores  (porters) 
ascend  with  ease,  wiih  a  load  of  ten  or  fifteen  arrobas  on  their  shoulders.  They 
are  paid  according  to  the  quantity  ihey  bring  up;  and  some  of  these  men  will 
ascend,  as  we  were  told,  from  the  perpendicular  depth  of  500  yards,  carrying 
the  enormous  weight  of  24  arrobas  (600  pounds).  In  the  court-yard  into  which 
we  entered  from  the  gallery,  and  where  the  workmen  are  searched,  there  was  a 
large  heap  of  ore,  accumulated  by  each  workman  being  obliged  to  bring  a  stone 
up  in  his  hand  every  time  he  ascends,  and  throw  it  on  this  heap.  There  are 
about  1000  workmen  at  present  employed,  and  in  the  course  of  a  week  a  large 
pile  is  formed.  The  product  of  this  belongs  to  the  mine,  and  forms  a  fund  for 
contingent  expenses.  The  matrices  of  these  ores,  whi-^h  we  had  here  a  good 
opportunity  of  examining,  are  principally  quartz,  amethyst,  and  rock  crystal, 
horn  stone,  calcareous  spar  of  a  dark  brown,  and  of  pearl  colour.  The  m.etals 
are  pyrites  of  iron,  arsenic,  yellow  copper,  galena,  gray  and  yellow  blend,  virgin 
gold  and  silver,  sulphate  of  silver,  both  brittle  and  ductile,  and  rosicler,  a  rich 
silver  ore  of  a  bright  rosy  colour,  which  we  did  not  see.  This  ore  is  so  rare, 
that  I  could  not  meet  with  a  specimen  during  my  residence  in  Mexico.  There 
are  likewise  veins  with  copper,  lead,  tin,  cinnabar,  antimony,  and  manganese; 
and  the  crystals  of  the  carbonate  of  lime,  that  are  found  in  this  mine,  are  very 
large  and  perfect.  We  next  visited  the  principal  shaft,  San  Jose,  an  octagon, 
the  diameter  11  yards,  and  the  perpendicular  depth  600.  This  great  work, 
which  cost  upwards  of  a  million  of  dollars,  is  in  some  places  blasted  through 
solid  rock,  and  in  others,  walled  up  with  hewn  stone :  the  masonry  is  admirably 
well  executed.  The  workmen  threw  bundles  of  lighted  hay  down  the  shaft, 
which  blazed  as  they  descended,  and  which  we  saw  fall  into  the  water,  now  not 
more  than  250  yards  from  the  summit,  and  rising  every  day.  After  failing  in 
his  attack  on  the  city  of  Guanaxuato,  Mina  caused  the  machinery  of  the  mine 
of  Valenciana  to  be  burnt,  and  the  owners  have  not  funds  to  renew  it.  From 
these  mines  we  went  to  a  shaft  called  Guadeloupe,  where  we  found  two  malacates 
in  operation.  These  machines  are  used  to  free  mines  from  water,  and  to  draw 
up  the  ore.  A  malacate  is  a  drum  of  about  ten  feet  in  diameter,  attached  to  a 
vertical  spindle,  a  shaft  of  15  feet  long,  which  is  shod  with  steel,  and  turns  in 
steel  sockets.  Poles  project  at  right  angles  from  the  shaft,  to  which  the  horses 
are  harnessed.  Two  ropes  are  passed  round  the  drum,  and  over  pullies  supported 
by  poles  twelve  feet  high,  and  about  10  feet  apart,  and  leading  to  the  well.  As 
the  drum  turns,  one  rope  descends,  and  the  other  is  wound  up,  and  raises  a  large 
skin  full  of  ore,  or  buckets  of  water,  by  what  the  French  call  a  chapelet.  At  the 
principal  or  octagonal  shaft,  eight  malacates  were  kept  constantly  at  work,  night 
and  day.  Each  malacate  was  moved  by  12  horses,  and  drew  up,  by  a  succcession 
of  buckets,  78  arrobas  (975  quarts)  every  nine  or  ten  minutes.  95,000  arrobas, 
or  31,800  cubic  feet  of  water,  might  be  raised  by  this  means  every  24  hours.  It 
happened  to  be  a  sale  day,  (Wednesday,)  and  in  the  same  court  where  the  mala- 
cates were  at  work,  we  saw  three  or  four  hundred  people  collected ;  some  exposing 
the  ore  to  the  best  advantage,  and  others  examining  its  quality.  This  mine  is 
now  worked  by  halves — the  workmen  receiving  one  half  of  the  profits,  and  the 
owners  of  the  mine  the  other.  The  workmen  were  busily  employed  in  arranging 
the  pieces  of  ore  in  parallelograms,  composed  of  small  circular  heaps  of  ore. 
They  were  very  careful  to  place  the  richest  pieces  at  top,  and  the  fairest  side  in 
sight. 


ROADS TRAVELLED  ROUTES — MODES  OF  TRAVELLING. 


41 


CHAPTER  VII. 


ROADS TRAVELLED  ROUTES MODES  OF  TRAVELLING. 


(1.)    Vera  Cruz  to  Mexico. 


City  of  Mexico, 
7548  feet. 


I Barkanca  dk  Joannes 
10,660  feet. 


PUEBLA., 

7,319  feet. 


^ 


Castle  of  Pkrote, 
7,752  feet. 


Las  Vigas, 
7,849  feet. 


Xalapa, 
4,407  feet 


I 


El  Encero,  3,094  feet  above  the  sea,  and 
limit  of  the  yellow  fever. 


Pdente  Nacional. 


Vera  Cruz. 


From  Vera  Cruz  to  Mexico 
is  a  distance  of  290  miles.  The 
route  over  v.'hich  the  road  now 
passes  is  the  same  througli 
which  Cortes  passed  on  his  ever- 
memorable  expedition.  The 
road  is  broad  and  paved  with 
round  stones  precisely  as  the 
principal  streets  are  in  our 
American  cities.  It  was  built 
in  the  year  1804.  Humboldt, 
who  was  in  Mexico  at  the  time, 
compared  it  to  the  roads  over  the 
Simplon  and  Mount  Cevis.  The 
numerous  bridges  spanning  ra- 
vines and  water-courses  are  all 
of  arched  masonry,  and  of  the 
most  substantial  workmanship. 
The  road  has  for  its  protection 
against  the  invasion  of  foreign 
foes,  castles  erected  on  the  most 
commanding  eminences  and 
passes. 

There  is  a  very  good  line  of 
stages,  making  three  trips  every 
week,  between  Vera  Cruz  and 
Mexico.  The  fare  is  enormous- 
ly high — $50  for  a  single  seat, 
and  to  ensure  the  safely  of  bag- 
gage, it  is  usual  to  forward  it 
by  a  separate  conveyance,  the 
cost  of  which  is  SIO  per  trunk. 
The  line  of  stages  was  establish- 
ed by  an  American  some  years 
ago,  but  is  now  owned  by  a  rich 
Mexican.  The  stages  are  built 
at  Troy,  N.  V.,  and  the  drivers 
are  all  Americans.  Seven 
horses  are  usually  driven  ;  two 
at  the  wheels,  three  abreast,  and 
two  more  in  the  lead. 

The  stage  leaves  Vera  Cruz 
at  eleven  o'clock  at  night,  and 
arrives  the  next  evening  about 
three  o'clock,  at  Jalapa,  a  dis- 
tance of  ninety  miles.  For  the 
first  few  miles  the  road  passes 
along  the  sandy  beach  ;  it  then 


42  ROADS — TRAVELLED  ROUTES — MODES  OF  TRAVELLING. 

begins  to  ascend  by  a  gradually  inclined  plane.  It  soon  enters  the  mountain 
gorges  by  a  deep  dell  of  lofty  and  perpendicular  rocks,  all  of  which  it  may  be 
observed  command  the  pass  and  make  it  easily  tenable  by  a  small  body  of 
troops  against  a  vastly  larger  force.  The  defenders  might  be  scattered  over  a 
variety  of  points,  where  ihey  would  remain  entirely  secure  from  the  assaults  of 
an  invading  army.  For  about  one  hundred  miles,  until  you  reach  Las  Vigas, 
there  is  one  continual  ascent,  among  defiles,  until  the  height  of  7,849  is  reached 
above  thg  level  of  the  sea.  Here  the  steepest  portion  of  the  road  ends ;  but 
thence  to  Perote,  and  so  onward  to  Puebla,  it  passes  over  an  uninterrupted  series 
of  abrupt  descents  and  ascents,  and  through  an  exceedingly  broken  country. 
At  Perote  there  is  a  strong  fortress  or  castle,  which  completely  commands  the 
pass.  Between  Puebla  and  Mexico,  there  is  another  steep  mountain,  (see  en- 
graving) and  the  traveller  must  reach  the  height  of  10,660  feet  before  he  begins 
to  descend  into  the  valley  of  Mexico.  The  entire  journey  is  usually  performed 
in  about  sixty-three  hours  of  travelling  time. 

"  Travelling  from  Vera  Cruz  to  Mexico,"  says  Mr.  Thompson,  "  you  are 
scarcely  ever  out  of  sight  of  caravans  of  muleteers  going  and  returning.  It  is 
the  mode  of  transportation  universal  in  this  country.  A  Frenchman  some  few 
years  since  established  a  line  of  waggons  on  the  route,  and  died  whilst  I  was  in 
Mexico,  leaving  a  fortune  of  some  four  hundred  thousand  dollars — all  of  which 
he  had  made  from  a  very  small  beginning.  Yet  after  his  death  no  one  was  dis- 
posed to  continue  the  business.  The  load  of  each  mule  is  400  pounds,  for  the 
freight  of  which,  from  Vera  Cruz  to  Mexico,  is  820.  The  mules  subsist  on  the 
coarsest  and  scantiest  food.  The  drivers  are  a  class  of  hardy  men,  who  are 
never  robbed,  and  are  always  faithful  and  honest. 

"  Although  the  whole  road,  from  Vera  Cruz  to  Mexico,  passes  through  a  coun- 
try inexpressibly  picturesque  and  beautiful,  yet  the  ignorant,  idle  and  degi'aded 
population,  the  total  absence  of  cultivation  and  improvement,  and  a  general 
appearance  of  wildness  and  desolation,  produced  within  me  feelings  partaking  of 
gloom  and  melancholy.  Neither  in  going  nor  returning  did  I  see  one  human 
being,  man,  woman  or  child,  engaged  at  work  of  any  sort.  The  great  mass  of 
population  doze  out  their  lives  with  no  higher  thoughts  or  purposes  than  the 
iDeasts  that  perish." 

(2,)    Tampico  to  Mexico. 

The  distance  from  Tampico  to  Mexico  is  312  miles.  The  road  leads  over 
precipitous  mountains,  and  is  altogether  unfit  for  carriages.  A  traveller  who 
passed  over  this  route  in  1822,  describes  the  country  as  level  for  48  miles  from 
Tampico,  with  a  rich  black  soil,  few  trees  except  palms,  and  thinly  inhabited. 
This  was  followed  by  a  broken  and  hilly  region  for  a  distance  of  nearly  100 
miles,  possessing  a  deep  soil,  but  destitute  of  water  during  the  greater  part  of 
the  year.  The  traveller  now  encountered  a  steep  and  rugged  mountain,  be- 
longing to  the  great  chain  of  Sierra  de  Madre.  The  ascent  was  difficult  and 
fatiguing,  and  occasionally  frightful  precipices  showed  themselves  at  the  feet  of 
his  mules.  After  a  long  ride  up  the  mountain,  he  began  to  descend  on  the  other 
side,  which  was  so  steep  that  his  party  conceived  it  safer  to  take  to  their  feet ; 

fastening  the  bridles  to  the  mules'  heads,  they  sent  the  beasts  in  advance. 

followed  with  great  difficulty  for  three  quarters  of  an  hour,  until  they  reached 
the  Indian  village  of  Clacalula.  The  succeeding  nine  miles  were  travelled  in 
the  bed  of  the  river  Canada,  (it  being  the  dry  season;)  upon  leavingwhich,  they 
commenced  the  ascent  of  Mount  Penulco,  which  consumed  two  hours  ;  this 
mountain  exceeded  in  height  any  eminence  they  had  yet  passed,  and  the  road, 
though  wide  and  free  from  impediments,  was  wmding  in  its  course,  and  at  every 
turn  approached  the  edge  of  a  precipice.     For  the  next  two  days  of  their  journey 


ROADS — TRAVELLED  ROUTES MODES  OF  TRAVELLING.  43 

ihey  continued  to  ascend  on  a  good  road,  and  passing  over  several  hills,  at  last 
began  to  descend  to  the  rich  and  fertile  valley  of  the  Santiago,  or  the  Rio  Grande 
of  the  west.  Here  they  found  in  plenty,  bananas,  oranges,  and  the  avocate  or 
alligator  pear.  But  a  formidable  mountain  height  still  rose  before  them ;  this 
was  the  mountain  of  San  Ammonica,  the  dread  of  muleteers.  Near  the  summit 
there  is  a  pass  of  a  peculiar  character;  as  it  is  approached,  a  perpendicular 
precipice  of  about  150  feet  presents  itself,  at  the  foot  of  which  a  narrow  road  is 
finally  perceived,  which  in  eight  short,  steep  and  desperate  turns,  conducts  the 
traveller  to  the  top,  shuddering  at  every  turn  as  he  looks  down  and  beholds  the 
vast  abyss  below.  A  plain  22  miles  in  extent  succeeds,  which  is  crossed  by 
good  roads  leading  to  the  celebrated  mining  district  and  town  of  Real  del  Monte. 
In  one  hour  after  leaving  this  place,  the  road  descends  into  the  table-land  of 
Mexico,  and  continues  its  course  over  a  level  plain  for  sixty  miles  to  the  capital. 
This  journey  occupied  twelve  days,  or  eighty-six  hours  actually  on  the  road. 

It  is  a  remarkable  fact  that  the  only  route  through  which  a  carriage  can  pass 
from  the  low-lands  of  the  coast  to  the  upper  country,  with  the  single  exception 
of  the  road  from  Vera  Cruz  to  Mexico,  is  through  a  pass  leading  from  Monterey 
(288  miles  west  of  Matamonis)  to  Saltillo."^  These,  then,  are  the  only 
two  routes  by  which  an  invading  army  can  reach  MexiccJ.  A  Mr.  Phillips,  who 
was  sent  out  from  England,  in  1822,  with  some  machinery  for  the  mines  of 
Catorce,  (lat.  23  d.)  gives  an  account  of  the  method  he  was  compelled  to  adopt 
to  get  it  to  its  place  of  destination,  which  we  transcribe.  His  machinery  was 
loaded  at  Tampico,  as  being  the  nearest  port  to  the  mines  of  Catorce,  and  he 
left  Altamira  (a  few  miles  from  Tampico)  on  the  16th  of  May,  with  fourteen 
four-wheeled  carriages  or  waggons,  well  loaded,  drawn  by  oxen.  In  order  to 
reach  Catorce,  which  is  situated  on  the  table-lands,  it  was  necessary  to  take  a 
circuitous  route,  leading  first  in  a  northerly  direction  from  Altamira  to  Monterey, 
thence  west  to  Saltillo,  over  the  carriage-road  to  the  table-land,  and  thence  south- 
erly to  the  mines.  The  journey  consumed  several  months,  being  protracted  by 
various  mischances  and  the  bad  state  of  the  roads  and  bridges.  "  On  the  15th 
of  October,"  says  Mr.  Phillips,  "  we  entered  the  city  of  Monterey,  situated  in  a 
large  bahia,  or  plain,  surrounded  by  mountains,  (part  of  the  Sierra  Madre  ;  it 
lies  in  about  26  d.  N.  lat.  The  climate  is  most  delightful  ;  fruit  abounds  all 
the  year  round,  and  provisions  of  all  kinds  are  cheap  and  plentiful.  It  contains 
15,000  inhabitants,  among  whom  are  a  great  many  old  Spaniards,  extremely 
wealthy.  We  •'"^pped  there  a  day  or  two  to  load  four  carts  with  four  tons  of 
castings  for  Saltillo,  and  left  on  the  17th,  proceeding  for  three  leagues  over  a 
most  excellent  road.  Our  route  from  Altamira  to  Monterey  ran  north  by  west- 
half-north,  or  nearly  so,  with  trifling  variations  ;  on  leaving  Monterey,  we  pro- 
ceeded due  west.  We  started  early  on  the  18th,  and  although  our  road  was  a 
continual  ascent,  we  performed  three  leagues.  On  the  19th  we  descended  over 
a  rough  broken  road  about  three  leagues  ;  and  on  the  20th,  yoked  our  cattle 
early  in  the  morning  and  drove  to  Rinconada.  Our  road  in  the  morning  lay 
through  a  barrenca  [ravine],  which  conducted  us  to  a  hill ;  the  road  is  good,  but 
the  steepest,  I  believe,  in  the  world  for  a  carriage.  We  soon  reached,  however, 
El  Puerto  de  los  Muertos,  [the  gate  of  the  dead,]  the  summit  of  the  mountain, 
which  derives  its  name,  the  Indians  say,  from  a  bloody  battle  fought  there  by 
the  first  conquerors  and  the  natives.  We  stopped  a  little  on  the  top  of  the  hill 
to  rest  the  bullocks,  and  in  the  evening  yoked  them  again,  and  reached  a  ran- 
cho  [village]  about  a  league  and  a  half  distant  from  El  Puerto. 

"  The  next  day  we  drove  on  smartly,  and  by  twelve  o'clock  were  three  leagues 
on  the  road,  when  we  halted  opposite  a  large  farm-house,  the  people  of  which 
were  astonished  at  the  sight  of  the  boilers,  and  came  running  to  know  the  use  of 

*  Mexico  in  1842,  by  Hon.  George  Folsom. 


49r  ROADS — TRAVELLED  ROUTES — MODES  OF  TRAVELLING. 

such  tremendous  things.  The  proprietor  of  the  hacienda  [farm-house]  also 
came  out  to  us,  to  whom  Col.  Martinez  thought  proper  to  mention  our  distressed 
situation,  which  he  was  no  sooner  acquainted  with  than  he  rode  off  to  his  house, 
and  in  about  an  hour  afterwards  we  received  a  sufficient  quantity  of  provisions 
for  two  days,  consisting  of  beef  and  mutton,  (boiled  and  roasted,)  vegetables, 
bread,  &c.  &c.  At  four  o'clock  we  left  this  abode  of  hospitality,  and  drove  two 
leagues  farther,  and  during  the  night  felt  the  cold  more  sensibly  than  we  had 
hitherto  done  since  leaving  the  coast.  On  the  23d  we  arrived  at  Saltillo,  twen- 
ty-five leagues  from  Monterey.  Saltillo  is  situated  on  the  side  of  a  hill ;  the 
country  around  presents  very  different  features  from  those  of  the  tierra  caliente, 
where  the  land  is  so  fertile,  and  the  herbage  so  luxuriant.  On  this  side  of  the 
Sierra  Madre  there  is  nothing  but  barren  mountains  and  plains  destitute  of  vege- 
tation. Saltillo  contains  about  12,000  inhabitants,  and  has  several  good  streets, 
communicating  at  right  angles  with  the  Plaza  [public  square,]  in  the  centre  of 
which  is  a  large  reservoir,  which  supplies  the  town  with  water.  We  had  gen- 
erallv  from  the  coast  to  this  place  met  with  great  civility  and  attention,  but  the 
inhabitants  here  showed  us  every  possible  mark  of  kindness  and  politeness.  On 
the  second  day  after  we  arrived,  we  dined,  by  invitation,  with  a  cousin  of  Itur- 
bide's,  and  met  all  the  {frincipal  people  and  authorities  of  the  town  ;  the  dinner 
was  most  splendidly  served  up  in  the  Spanish  style,  and  to  us  who  had  fared 
badly  during  five  months  before,  was  no  ordinary  sort  of  treat.  We  contracted 
for  several  carts  to  take  all  our  castings,  except  the  cylinder,  to  Catorce,  which 
latter,  together  with  the  boilers,  were  all  that  remained  for  our  own  carriages. 
We  left  Saltillo  on  the  26th  of  October,  and  proceeded  four  leagues  over  an 
excellent  road,  then  stopped  for  the  night  at  a  small  rancho.  Our  bullocks  by 
this  time  began  to  fail  us  ;  we  consequently  here  contracted  with  a  man  to  drive 
us  to  Catorce  with  his  own  cattle,  which  we  reached  without  much  difficulty  in 
about  ten  days. 

(3.)    Texas  to  Mexico. 

In  former  times  it  was  not  unusual  to  travel  by  land  from  New  Orleans  to 
the  city  of  Mexico.  The  road  led  from  Natchitoches,  on  the  Red  River,  through 
the  province  of  Texas  by  Nacogdoches,  San  Antonio  de  Bexar,  and  Presidio  de 
Rio  Grande,  where  it  crossed  that  river  about  500  miles  from  its  mouth,  to  Mon- 
clova,  Saltillo,  or  Monterey ;  thence  through  the  interior  of  the  country  to  the 
capital.  The  length  of  the  whole  route  is  stated  by  Humboldt  to  be  540  leagues, 
or  1620  miles  ;  he  adds  that  "  it  presents  very  few  obstacles  until  it  reaches  the 
Rio  Grande,  and  the  ascent  to  the  table-lands  begins  only  from  Monterey,  where 
the  declivitv  is  by  no  means  rapid. 

Captain  Pages,  of  the  French  navy,  travelled  over  this  route  to  Mexico,  and 
thence  to  Acapulco,  in  1767  ;  and  the  late  General  Pike,  of  the  United  States 
army,  marched  with  a  small  party  along  a  portion  of  it  in  1S07.  The  French 
traveller,  having  arrived  at  San  Antonio  de  Bexar,  pursued  a  direct  course  to 
Saltillo,  crossing  the  Rio  Grande  at  Laredo  ;  and  thence  continued  his  route  to 
the  city  of  Mexico.  He  reckons  the  distance  from  San  Antonio  to  Saltillo  160 
leagues,  and  from  Saltillo  to  Mexico  220  leagues,  in  all  3S0  leagues,  or  1,050 
miles.  Pike,  who  had  been  surprised  by  a  Spanish  force  while  exploring  the 
head-waters  of  the  Arkansas,  and  taken  to  Santa  Fe,  returned  to  the  United 
States  by  the  way  of  Chihuahua  and  Monclova,  and  thence  through  the  province 
of  Texas  to  Natchitoches,  crossing  the  Rio  Grande,  (above  Laredo)  and  passing 
through  San  Antonio  de  Bexar,  then  the  capital  of  the  province. 

According  to  the  journtil  of  this  officer,  he  consumed  five  days  in  the  march 
from  Monclova  to  Presidio  Rio  Grande,  averaging  20  miles  per  day,  and  about 
the  same  length  of  time  in  going  from  Presidio  Rio  Grande  to  San  Antonio  de 


ROADS— TRAVELLED  ROUTES — MODES  OF  TRAVELLING.  45 

Bexar,  averagfing  30  miles  per  day.  The  road  from  San  Antonio  to  Saltillo, 
crossing  the  Kio  Grande  at  Laredo,  is  shorter  and  more  direct  than  the  upper 
route  by  the  Presidio. 

For  information  respecting  the  portion  of  the  route,  from  Saliillo  to  the  mines 
of  Catorce,  see  the  account  of  Mr.  Phillips' journey  on  a  preceding  page. 

From  Saltillo  to  Catorce  is  164  miles.  After  leaving  Catorce,  the  travelled 
route  passes  along  a  good  carriage-road  along  the  base  of  a  mountainous  range. 
For  a  long  distance  of  country  after  leaving  this  place,  water  is  obtained  with  so 
much  difficulty  at  certain  seasons  of  the  year,  that  travellers  arc  obliged  to  pay 
for  it.  It  is  supplied  from  wells  of  great  depth,  which  are  brackish  and  unplea- 
sant ;  and  even  then  is  only  to  be  obtained  for  money,  at  intervals  of  twenty 
miles  distance,  the  keepers  of  the  wells  living  hard  by  in  miserable  huts. 
Mr.  Ward,  (the  British  envoy,)  who  visited  the  Catorce  mines  in  November, 
1826,  describes  the  country  on  this  part  of  his  route  as  dreary  and  deserted, 
without  water  or  cultivation  ;  and  adds,  that  at  Guadaloupe  his  party  paid  two 
dollars  for  permission  to  water  their  animals  at  the  tanqne  belonging  to  the  estate. 
From  Catorce  to  San  Luis  Potosi  is  156  miles.  San  Luis,  including  the 
barrios  or  suburbs,  is  stated  by  Mr.  Ward  to  contain  between  fifty  and  sixty 
thousand  inhabitants,  and  it  is  supposed  that  as  many  more  are  concentrated 
within  a  circle  of  six  leagues  in  its  immediate  vicinity.  The  town  is  well  built, 
the  streets  intersecting  each  other  at  right  angles.  The  houses  in  the  Plaza,  or 
public  square,  and  on  the  principal  avenues  leading  to  it,  are  of  stone.  This 
city  is  the  centre  of  one  of  the  richest  mining  districts  in  Mexico.  It  also  derives 
great  advantages  from  its  situation  as  the  natural  depot  for  the  trade  of  Tampico 
with  the  northern  and  western  states  of  the  republic,  which  receive  through  this 
channel  a  large  proportion  of  their  foreign  imports.  The  distance  from  San 
Luis  to  Tampico  is  about  200  miles,  in  a  direct  line  to  the  coast.  Mr.  Poinsett 
passed  over  the  route  in  thirteen  days,  in  the  autumn  of  1S22,  and  Capt.  Lyon 
in  about  the  same  length  of  time,  in  the  spring  of  1S27.  Both  travellers  describe 
the  intermediate  country  as  interesting  and  agreeable  for  the  most  part,  although 
destitute  of  good  roads  suitable  for  carriages.  ^^ 

Leaving  San  Luis  Potosi  for  the  capital,  the  first  stage  is  16  leagues  to  the 
hacienda  and  village  of  Jaral ;  thence  to  the  town  of  San  Felipe  10  leagues, 
crossing  a  branch  of  the  Sierra  Madre  by  a  long  and  difficult  ascent  and  descent, 
very  inconvenient,  says  Mr.  Ward,  but  not  absolutely  dangerous  for  carriages. 
From  San  Felipe  the  road  leads  over  an  elevated  plain  for  six  or  seven  leagues ; 
it  then  becomes  steep  and  mountainous  for  four  leagues  to  the  hacienda  of  La 
Tlachiquera,  situated  in  the  centre  of  a  ridge  of  mountains,  and  about  midway 
between  San  Felipe  and  the  city  of  Guanaxuato.  These  mountains  maj'  be 
avoided  by  a  circuitous  route  after  leaving  San  Luis,  passing  to  the  west  through 
the  town  of  Leon.  Guanaxuato  is  situated  in  the  midst  of  a  rich  mining  and 
agricultural  district.  The  mine  of  Valenciana  alone,  between  the  years  1766 
and  180.3,  yielded  silver  to  the  amount  of  165,000,000  dollars.  Tlie  adjacent 
country,  comprehending  an  extensive  territory  under  the  name  of  the  Baxio. 
forms  an  immense  plain,  highly  cultivated,  and  producing  in  great  perfection  all 
the  fruits  of  Europe,  and  many  of  those  indigenous  to  the  tropics.  Thus  situ- 
ated, Guanaxuato  has  long  been  considered  one  of  the  most  opulent  and  flourishing 
cities  in  Mexico.  It  is  220  miles  from  the  capital.  The  next  places  on  the  route 
are  Irapuato,  11  leagues  ;  Salamanca,  five  leagues  ;  Zelaya,  nine  leagues  ;  Que- 
retaro,  10  leagues  ;  all  of  which  are  populous  towns,  situated  on  the  fertile  plains 
of  the  Baxio.  The  aqueduct  by  which  the  town  of  Queretaro  is  supplied  with 
Avater  from  a  spring  in  the  mountains,  at  a  distance  of  nearly  nine  miles,  is  very 
picturesque.  Its  arches  are  lofty,  light  and  bold,  and  its  extent  gives  it  an  air 
of  great  magnificence  as  it  stretches  across  the  plain.  It  contains  40,000  inhabi- 
tants, and  is  distant  120  miles  from  the  capital.     The  next  town  is  San  Juan 


46  ROADS — TRAVELLED  ROUTES — MODES  OF  TRAVELLING. 

del  Rio,  which  stands  in  a  rich  and  highly  cultivated  valley,  eight  or  ten  leagues 
from  Queretaro.  Arroyo  Sarco  is  the  name  of  a  large  hacienda  12  leagues  from 
San  Juan.  The  river  lower  down  takes  the  name  of  Moctezuma,  and  afterwards 
unites  with  the  Panuco,  having  Tampico  at  its  mouth.  From  Tula  to  Huehue- 
toca,  the  distance  is  ten  leagues,  through  a  desert  and  barren  country.  At  this 
place  terminates  the  celebrated  desdgue  or  drain,  constructed  for  the  purpose  of 
carrying  off  the  waters  of  the  lakes  in  the  valley  of  Mexico,  to  prevent  an  inun- 
dation of  the  capital.  It  is  a  vast  canal,  cut  through  a  hill,  from  100  to  130  feet 
deep,  and  at  the  summit  between  200  and  300  feet  wide ;  its  length  is  about  14 
miles.  Huehuetoca  is  the  last  stage  before  arriving  at  the  capital,  from  which 
it  is  distant  eleven  leagues.  Such  is  the  route  from  the  banks  of  the  Rio  Grande 
to  the  city  of  Mexico. 

[4.]     From  Independence,  Missouri,  to  Santa  Fe. 

For  the  last  twenty  years  trading  companies  have  carried  on  a  lucrative  and 
constantly  increasing  traffic  with  New  Mexico,  by  way  of  Independence,  the 
western  frontier  town  of  Missouri  and  the  general  poitit  d'appui  for  all  the  expe- 
ditions to  the  remote  west.  It  has  grown,  mainly  under  the  influence  of  this 
traffic,  to  be  a  large  and  flourishing  town,  and  furnishes  the  supplies  of  all  kinds 
required  for  the  journey  over  the  great  prairies  which  stretch  from  this  point  to 
the  Rocky  Mountains.  It  stands  within  two  or  three  miles  of  the  Missouri  river, 
and  is  but  twelve  from  the  Indian  border. 

The  route  is  perfectly  accessible  and  not  especially  dangerous.  Trading 
companies  of  from  one  to  two  hundred  persons,  and  very  often  of  less,  frequently 
escort  trains  of  merchandize,  with  large  quantities  of  gold  and  silver,  to  the 
amount  of  several  hundred  thousand  dollars,  in  safety  across  the  prairies,  and 
but  little  danger  is  apprehended  from  the  predatory  attacks  of  the  various  tribes 
of  Indians  which  dwell  upon  the  route.  Occasionally  some  daring  assault  from 
them  has  led  to  sending  an  escort  of  U.  S.  troops,  but  generally  the  trading  car- 
avans provide  sufficiently  for  their  own  defence. 

From  St.  Louis  to  Independence  the  distance  is  about  250  miles,  directly 
across  the  State  of  Missouri,  and  the  river  is  navigable  for  nearly  the  whole 
distance.  From  Independence  to  Santa  Fe,  the  distance  is  set  down  by  Mr. 
Gregg,  in  his  valuable  work  upon  the  Commerce  of  the  Prairies,  at  775 
miles,  and  the  trip  across  is  performed,  under  favourable  circumstances,  in 
about  sixty  days.  There  is  nothing  like  a  human  habitation  to  be  met 
throughout  the  route,  until  the  settlements  of  New  Mexico  are  reached.  For 
nearly  500  miles  the  route  lies  through  an  uninterrupted  prairie,  except  the  nar- 
row fringes  of  timber  which  border  the  streams.  At  the  distance  of  200  miles 
from  Independence,  buffalos  begin  to  be  found,  and  hunting  affords  at  once  excite- 
ment and  food  for  the  expedition.  Quagmires  are  frequently  encountered,  over 
which  paths  are  readily  made  by  crossing  them  with  brush  and  throwing  earth 
upon  it.  At  the  distance  of  270  miles,  the  Arkansas  is  crossed  ;  and  at  this 
point  the  prairie  soil,  which  before  has  been  rich,  fertile,  and  covered  with  the 
most  beautiful  vegetation,  becomes  more  barren,  and  presents  thenceforward  a 
far  more  cheerless  and  dreary  appearance.  Between  the  Arkansas  and  the 
Cimarron  rivers,  a  distance  of  fifty-eight  miles,  intervenes  a  sandy  desert,  for- 
merly difficult  of  passage  and  destitute  of  water,  and  the  route  for  some  distance 
farther,  continues  to  become  one  of  considerable  labour.  After  crossing  the 
river,  dense  thickets  are  encountered,  and  the  face  of  the  country  assumes  the 
character  of  a  mountainous  region,  being  broken  into  tall  cliffs,  deep  gorges,  and 
a  sfenerally  rough  and  hard  surface.  After  passing  the  Upper  and  Cold  Springs, 
which  are  330  miles  from  Independence,  the  track  becomes  perfectly  plain  and 
easy,  and  from  the  top  of  Round  Mountain,  50  miles  farther  ahead,  a  magnifi- 


EOADS — TRAVELLED  ROUTES — MODES  OF  TRAVELLING.  47 

cent  view  is  obtained  of  the  immense  plains  which  lie  adjacent,  destitute  of 
timber,  except  around  the  bluffs  of  ravines,  and  only  occasionally  covered  with 
herds  of  countless  buffalo. 

A  traveller  who  lately  passed  over  this  route  gives  the  following  description  of 
his  journev  : — 

"  The  Indian  country  as  far  as  Council  Grove,  200  miles  from  the  line,  is 
perhaps  as  fine  a  tract  of  country  as  can  be  found  in  the  world  ;  there  is  rather 
a  scarcity  of  timber,  but  in  soil  and  water  none  can  be  superior.  The  Council 
Grove,  as  it  is  called,  is  the  ancient  site  of  a  once  proud  and  mighty  city.  It 
is  situated  on  the  main  White  river,  which  here  forms  a  crescent  or  curve  of 
about  nine  miles  in  circumference,  and  contains  more  than  a  hundred  mounds, 
half  of  which  are  more  than  ten  times  as  large  as  those  near  Vincenncs ;  those 
in  the  centre  are  in  the  form  of  a  square,  many  containing  a  surface  of  more 
than  two  acres,  some  in  the  form  of  a  triangle,  and  others  perfectly  round. 
Here  the  Pawnee,  Arapahoe,  Comanche,  Loups,  and  Eutaw  Indians,  all  of  whom 
are  at  war  with  each  other,  meet  and  smoke  the  pipe  once  a  year  in  peace. 
Every  person  and  every  thing  are  held  sacred  for  many  miles  around  this 
peaceful  grove.  This  custom  has  been  handed  down  for  many  centuries  among 
the  red  men,  and  here  their  chiefs  and  great  men  are  brought  from  hundreds 
of  miles  around  to  be  interred.  The  numerous  camps  everywhere  to  be  seen 
around  here,  at  once  convince  the  traveller  that  this  is  the  great  rendezvous  of 
thousands  annually.  From  hence  onward  for  500  miles,  there  is  nothing  to  b? 
seen  but  one  eternal  desert,  without  a  solitary  stick  of  timber  to  cheer  the  eye 
Nothing  here  is  to  be  had  but  buffalo  dung  to  cook  the  food  that  is  used,  but 
with  this  the  whole  prairies  are  covered,  and  it  is  an  excellent  substitute. 

"  We  overtook  the  caravan  in  sight  of  the  Arkansas,  about  400  miles  from 
the  line  of  the  United  States,  and  800  from  St.  Louis,  without  being  troubled 
by  the  Indians,  and  attached  ourselves  thereto  for  duty  in  crossing  the  river, 
which  is  much  larger  than  at  the  mouth,  and  always  muddy,  and  rolling  her 
quicksands  into  bars  almost  every  hour,  so  that  fords  and  crossings  are  dangerous 
and  uncertain.  From  the  Arkansas  river,  the  scarcity  of  water  commences,  and 
even  the  little  to  be  had  is  so  deeply  impregnated  with  salt,  sulphur,  &c.,  that 
stern  necessity  alone  brings  the  traveller  to  the  use  of  it.  On  the  Simerone 
river  there  are  one  or  two  good  springs,  at  one  of  which  we  met  500  warriors 
of  the  Arapahoe  Indians,  who  treated  us  with  a  proper  friendship,  being  elated 
with  their  success  ten  days  before,  when  in  battle  they  killed  seventy-six  Pawnees. 
We  gratified  them  by  encamping  on  the  battle-ground,  where  the  unburied  bodies 
were  yet  almost  unbroken.  The  next  day  we  visited  their  lodge,  six  miles  from 
the  battle-ground,  where  we  had  a  full  view  of  savage  life  in  a  perfect  state  of 
nature;  amongst  500  women  and  children,  there  were  but  few  who  had  ever 
before  seen  the  dress  and  equipage  of  the  white  man. 

"  After  leaving  these  friendly  Indians,  we  were  cheered  in  eight  or  ten  days 
with  the  far  distant  appearance  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  From  day  lo  day,  as 
we  approached  them,  the  beauty  of  the  scenery  increased,  and  when  within 
twenty  miles,  the  reflection  of  the  sun  through  the  snow  that  eternally  crowns 
their  highest  peaks,  is  splendid  beyond  description.  Here  the  traveller  beholds 
a  chain  of  many  hundred,  nay,  thousands  of  miles,  varied  with  nothing  but  the 
white  caps  of  snow  and  rough  and  terrific  precipices,  until  you  reach  the  cross- 
ings of  Canadian  river,  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains ;  and  here  the  pine  and 
cedar  tree  on  the  mountain  side  and  in  the  valley  again  greet  the  eye.  On  this 
plain  we  encountered  about  300  Eutaw  warriors ;  but  after  repeated  skirmish- 
ing, they  were  fain  to  retreat  without  effecting  any  damage  of  consequence. 
From  here  to  the  good  town  of  Bogas,  we  found  water,  wood,  and  good  cheer. 
We  arrived  in  this  city  on  the  2d  July,  all  in  good  health,  in  less  than  two 
months,  the  quickest  trip  ever  made  over  the  desert. 


48  EOADS — TRAVELLED  ROUTES — MODES  OF  TRAVELLING. 

"  Santa  Fe  is  situated  in  a  valley  ten  miles  long,  and  from  two  to  five  wide, 
surrounded  by  immense  mountains  covered  with  pine  and  cedar  trees,  and 
affords  the  most  beautiful  scene  the  eye  can  conceive,  or  the  mind  imagine. 
It  is  the  seal  of  government  of  New  Mexico,  and  is  commanded  by  a  governor- 
general.  It  is  also  a  military  post,  port  of  entry,  and  depository  of  all  the 
ancient  archives  of  the  neighbouring  states.  The  houses  are  built  of  unburn! 
bricks,  two  feet  long,  six  inches  deep,  and  one  foot  wide,  made  with  straw  and 
mud,  and  dried  in  the  sun ;  and  such  is  their  durability,  that  many  houses  are 
standing  more  than  200  years  old,  and  look  well;  they  are  only  one  story  high, 
handsomely  whitewashed  inside,  with  dirt  floors.  Even  the  palace  in  which 
his  excellency  resides,  has  no  other  than  a  dirt  floor,  but  they  are  generally 
covered  with  carpets ;  the  houses  are  covered  with  stones  and  dirt,  and  are  flat- 
roofed,  perfectly  weather-proof.  The  town  contains  six  churches,  generally 
richly  fitted  out.  The  population  is  about  3600,  all  rigid  Roman  Catholics. 
It  is  situated  on  a  small  branch  of  the  Rio  Grande  del  Norte,  about  14  miles 
from  the  main  river,  which  is  here  near  the  size  of  the  Wabash,  at  Vincennes. 

"  The  inhabitants  are  honest — perhaps  more  so  than  those  of  the  same  class 
in  the  United  States;  and  proud  and  vain  of  their  blood,  both  the  descendants 
of  the  ancient  Spaniards  of  unmixed  descent,  and  those  of  the  Spaniards  and 
Indians.  The  pure  blood  cannot  hold  oflice  here  ;  the  present  governor-general 
and  all  the  officers  of  state,  are  of  the  mixed  blood  of  Montezuma.  In  this 
.piace  there  is  but  one  officer  of  justice,  the  alcalde,  and  he  has  nothing  to  do. 

"  The  commerce  of  Santa  Fe  is  certainly  very  considerable ;  and  although 
there  is  but  one  gold  mine  worked  here  now,  and  one  copper  mine,  yet  the 
daily  receipts  afford  about  600  or  700  dollars  net.  The  number  of  hands  em- 
ployed at  work  is  from  100  to  220,  The  revolution  has  set  every  thing  back 
here  in  the  mining  departments,  as  they  w^ere  generally  held  by  natives  of  old 
Spain,  and  accounted  forfeits  to  the  general  government  after  the  revolution. 

The  distance  from  Santa  Fe  to  Mexico  may  be  computed  as  follows  :  To 
Passo  del  Norte,  210  miles;  to  Chihuahua,  ISO  miles;  to  Jose  del  Parral,  140 
miles;  to  Durango,  240  miles;  to  Somnete,  90  miles;  to  Zacatecas,  85  miles; 
to  Aguascalientes,  80  miles  ;  to  Guanaxuato,  100  miles  ;  to  Mexico,  210  miles  ; 
in  all,  1335  miles. 

[5.]    Acaptdco  to  Mexico. 

In  former  times  Acapulco  derived  great  importance  from  its  enjoying  a  monopoly 
of  the  trade  between  Manilla,  in  the  Philippine  Islands,  (belonging  to  the  crown 
of  Spain,)  and  Mexico.  The  richly-freighted  Spanish  galleons  made  its  noble 
harbour  their  only  place  of  resort  on  the  western  coast,  and  extensive  fairs  for 
the  sale  of  every  description  of  goods  suitable  for  the  markets  of  the  Indian 
ocean,  were  held  in  the  town.  M.  Pages,  the  French  traveller,  embarked  here 
in  one  of  those  ships,  on  his  arrival  from  New  Orleans  via  the  city  of  Mexico, 
the  2d  of  April,  1768.  The  cargo,  among  other  things,  comprised  three  millions 
of  piastres  in  specie,  destined  in  part  to  defray  the  expenses  of  government  in 
the  Philippine  islands  ;  and  of  the  hundred  passengers  on  board,  at  least  forty, 
says  Pages,  were  monks.  The  harbour  of  Acapulco  is  one  of  the  finest  in  the 
•world.  Capt.  Basil  Hall,  who  visited  it  in  1822,  expresses  the  highest  profes- 
sional admiration  of  this  celebrated  port.  He  says,  "  it  is  easy  of  access  ;  very 
eapacious ;  the  water  not  too  deep;  the  holding  ground  good;  quite  free  from 
hidden  dangers ;  and  as  secure  as  the  basin  at  Portsmouth  dock-yard.  From 
ihe  interior  of  the  harbour  the  sea  cannot  be  discovered  ;  and  a  stranger  coming 
to  the  spot  by  land,  would  imagine  he  was  looking  over  a  sequestered  lake." 

The  Mexican  muleteers  reckon  the  distance  from  Acapulco  to  Mexico  at  110 
leagues ;  other  itineraries  make  it  five  or  six  leagues  less. 


INHABITANTS,    POPULATION    AND   GOVERNMENT   OF    MEXICO. 


49 


CHAPTER  VIII. 


INHABITANTS,  POPULATION,  AND  GOVEKNMENT  OF  MEXICO. 


INHABITANTS. 


The  inJiahitants  of  Mexico  are  generally  divided  inlO-sejffin^  distinct  races, 
though  there  are  various  definable  and  indefinable  intermixtures  oF  all  these. 
The  lirsl  class--2.re  tin-  I'''ii-.iji'M!'~^.  Tii"  si'i'dud  race  consist-;  of  the  Creoles,  or 
native  «iiiJLe;5._or  llie  EurnniTui  rare-  lu  these  wei'e  found  the  tilled  nobility. 
The  third-rare  comprehends  the  Mestizos,  or  the  offspring  of  whites  uud  Indians.. 
They  are  as  numerous  almost  as  the  Indians.  They  are  almost  white.  The 
fourth  race  is  that  of  the  Mulattoes,  or  the  offspring  of  whites  and  negroes. 
The  fifih-iacre  is  that  of  the  native  Indians.  The  sixth  comprehends  the  African 
negroes  and  their  descendants.  They  have  straight  hair,  are  few  in  number, 
and  are  all  either  free  or  under  the  proleclion.of  laws  whose  eventual  operation 
is  to  liberate  them.  The  seventh  race  is  the  offspring  of  negroes  and  Indians, 
called  Zamboes  or  Chinese.     • 

The  Indinns  form  about  two-fifths  of  the  whole  population.  They  have  not 
only  survived  the  process  of  civilization,  but  their  number  is  on  the  increase. 
There  are  now  hardly  any  other  classes  of  people  than  the  rich  and  poor.  The 
titled  nobility  were  always  Creoles,  and  were  the  highest.  The  lawyers, 
merchants,  and  shopkeepers,  are  next  in  influence.  The  most  numerous,  and 
lowest,  is  the  disorderly  rabble  that  infests  the  cities,  especially  Mexico,  where 
there  are  20,000,  who  beg,  steal,  and,  as  a  last  resort,  work  for  a  subsistence. 
They  resemble  the  Lazzaroni  of  Naples,  and  live  much  in  the  open  air.  Thev 
are  partially  fed  by  the  convents,  which  have  charitable  funds  for  the  daily  dis- 
tribution of  food  to  the  poor. 

Of  the  number  of  the  inhabitants  we  cannot  speak  with  certainty,  as  no  census 
has  been  taken  recently. — All  writers,  howev^er,  agree  that  the  population  fairly 
estimated  is  about  as  represented  in  the  following  table,  which  presents  a  view 
of  the  population  of  the  states  and  territories,  together  with  their  capitals. 


States.      •  |> 

Population. 

Capitals. 

Population 

Chiapas    - 

93,000 

Chiapas        -         -         - 

3,000 

Yucatan 

-    500,000 

Merida      - 

10,000^ 

Tabasco    - 

75,000 

Tabasco        -         _         - 

5,000  f 

Oaxaca 

-     600,000 

Oaxaca     -         -         - 

40,000 

Vera  Cruz 

200,000^ 

Vera  Cruz    -         -         - 

30,000  y 

Puebla 

-  9oo,ooo^y 

Puebla      - 

70,000 

Mexico      - 

-      1,500,000^ 

Tlalpan 

6,000 

Mechoacan 

-    450,000 

Valladolid 

25,000 

Queretaro 

200,000 

Queretaro     -        -         - 

40,000 

Guanaxuato 

-    450,000 

Guanaxuato 

60,000 

Xalisco     - 

800,000 

Guadalaxara 

60,000 

Zacatecas 

-    272,000 

Zacatecas 

25,000 

San  Luis  Potosi 

250,000 

San  Luis  Potosi    - 

40,000 

New  Leon    - 

-     100,000 

Monterey 

15,000  . 

Tamaulipas 

150,000 

Aguayo         -         .         - 

6,000  • 

Cohahuila    - 

-     125.000 

Monclova 

3,000  « 

Chihuahua 

112,000 

Chihuahua  -         -         - 

30,000  » 

Durango 

-     175,000 

Durango 

25,000  - 

Sonora  and  Cinaloa 

180,000 

Villa  Fuerte 

4,000 

Federal  District  - 
4 

•        »        - 

Mexico     -        .        - 

180,000. 

M 


INHABITANTS,    POPrLATION    AND   GOVERNMENT    OF    MEXICO'. 


Tlascala 
New  Mexico 
Colima 

Upper  California 
Lower  California 


Territories. 

_ 

Tlascala 

150,000 

Santa  Fe 

150,000 

Colima 

25,000 

Monterey 

15,000 

Lore  to 

small  town 
3,500    • 

sn>aU  town 
2,500   * 


M.  de  Mofras,  in  speaking  of  the  population  of  Upper  California,  says  that  in 
1842,  the  whole  population,  (exclusive  of  Indians)  was  only  5,000,  distributed  thus : 

Californians  descended  from  Spaniards              -  4,000 

Americans  from  the  United  States              -             -  360 

English,  Scotch,  and  Irish       -            -            _  300 

European  Spaniards          -             _             _             -  80 

French  (including  Canadians)              -             -  80 
Germans,    Italians,    Portuguese,    Sandwich-Islanders, 

and  others     -----  90 

Mexican  colonists        -             .            -             -  90 

Total,  5,000 

To  these  were  to  he  added,  at  that  time,  300  convicts  and  soldiers  who  had 
just  arrived  with  General  Micheltorena. 

Of  the  foreigners,  the  Americans  were  particularly  concentrated  at  Los  An- 
geles and  Branciforte,  the  English  and  Spaniards  at  Santa  Barbara  and  Monterey, 
and  the  French  at  Los  Angeles  and  Monterey. 

Among  the  English  and  Americans  were  many  discharged  or  runav/ay  sea- 
men ;  but  the  bulk  of  the  latter  consisted  of  emigrants  from  the  West,  the  number 
of  whom  must  have  increased  greatly  in  the  last  few  years. 

This  population  was  distributed  as  follows : 

District  of  San  Diego        -            -            -  -       1,300 

Do.    of  Santa  Barbara         -             -             .  800 

Do.    of  Monterey          -             .             -  -       ],Q00 

Do.    of  San  Francisco          -             -             _  ^wOO 

Scattered  over  the  country  among  the  Missions  -       1,100 

Total,  spread  over  a  territory  of  about  2,000  square 

leagues    -----  5,000 

The  population  of  the  whole  confederacy  is  estimated  at  present  to  be  about 
7,000,000  souls,  including  about  3,000,000  Indians,  and  as  mixed  breed. 


GOVERNMENT. 

The  government  of  Mexico  is  intended  to  be  republican,  but  the  frequent  political 
changes  which  have  taken  place,  renders  a  brief  history  of  them  somewhat 
necessary  to  a  proper  understanding  of  its  present  political  condition.  Her 
history  is  deeply  interesting,  and  from  it  the  world  may  glean  many  lessons  of 
instruction.  Our  own  country,  now  commencing  a  neio  era,  would  do  well  to 
study  it. 

Mexico  was  subdued  by  the  Spaniards  under  Cortes,  in  1521.  Montezuma 
was  at  that  time  emperor,  and  fell  in  defence  of  his  capital.  The  inhabitants 
were  considerably  advanced  in  civilization ;  they  were  acquainted  with  the  arts 
of  working  gold,  silver,  and  copper,  and  with  a  kind  of  printing ;  and  their  cities 


INHABITANTS,    POPULATION   AND   GOVERNMENT   OF    MEXICO.  51 

were  adorned  with  temples  and  palaces,  and  regulated  by  a  police.  The  country 
continued  a  province  of  Spain  till  1810,  when  an  insurrection  commenced  in 
Durango,  and  after  a  variety  of  revolutionary  movements,  Inturl)ide,  a  Creole, 
caused  himself  to  be  proclaimed  emperor,  in  1822.  His  imperial  sway  was 
brief,  as  his  empire  was  overthrown  in  the  following  year,  and  he  was  banished 
the  country.  In  1S24,  the  Mexicans  adopted  a  constitution  modelled  on  that 
of  the  United  States.  This  constitution  was  not,  however,  sufficient  to  prevent 
civil  dissensions,  and  the  sword  was  too  often  appealed  to,  to  decide  the  claims 
of  rival  chiefs  or  factions.  But  it  preserved  a  nominal  existence  until  1835, 
when  it  was  abolished  by  a  decree  of  congress,  suppressing  the  state  constitu- 
tions, and  establishing  a  central  government.  Several  of  the  stales  opposed  this 
measure,  and  the  inhabitants  of  Texas,  who  were  desirous  of  forming  a  separate 
state,  having  had  their  requests  rejected,  refused  to  acknowlecge  the  new  govern- 
ment, and  established  a  provisional  government  for  themselves.  In  the  following 
spring,  Santa  Anna  invaded  Texas,  and  was  defeated  at  San  Jacinto,  and  made 
prisoner.  After  his  return  to  Mexico,  he  remained  upon  his  estate  until  1839, 
when  he  made  an  attack  upon  the  French  who  landed  at  Vera  Cruz,  in  which 
he  lost  his  leg,  but  recovered  his  reputation,  and  in  the  fall  of  1842,  overthrew 
and  banished  Bustamente.  The  chiefs  of  the  army  then  assembled  at  a  little 
village  near  Mexico,  and  established  a  provisional  government,  until  a  new  con- 
stitution could  be  formed,  for  which  purpose  members  were  elected.  They 
assembled,  and  after  a  free  discussion,  were  about  to  adopt  9.  federal  constitution, 
but  this  created  so  much  dissatisfaction  throughout  the  republic,  that  the  work 
of  the  convention  was  denounced,  and  the  President  closed  its  session.  A  new 
convention  assembled,  the  members  chiefly  nominated  by  the  President.  They 
adopted  a  constitution  which  went  into  effect  in  1844,  a  very  good  synopsis  of 
which  follows,  as  given  by  Mr.  Thompson 

Slavery  is  forever  prohibited. 

The  liberty  of  the  Press  is  guaranteed  ;  a  guarantee.,  however,  purely  iheoreU 
teal;  it  is  no  freer  than  in  France,  nor  as  free. 

Equally  theoretical  is  the  provision  that  no  one  shall  be  arrested  but  by  the 
authority  of  law. 

No  taxes  are  to  he  imposed  but  by  the  legislative  authority. 

Private  property  not  to  be  taken  for  public  use,  but  with  just  compensation. 

Mexicans  to  be  preferred  for  public  offices  to  strangers,  if  their  qualifications 
are  equal — a  qiialification,  by  the  xoay,  of  this  provision  vjhich  neutralizes  it. 

Persons  who  have  attained  the  age  of  eighteen  years,  if  married,  are  entitled 
to  the  rights  of  citizens  ;  if  unmarried,  twenty-one  years  ;  and  those  who  have  an 
annual  income  of  two  hundred  dollars,  either  from  labour  or  the  profits  of  capital. 

After  the  year  1850,  those  only  are  to  exercise  the  privileges  o^  a  citizen  who 
can  read  and  write. 

By  becoming  a  domestic  servant,  the  privileges  of  a  citizen  are  suspended  ; 
so,  also,  pending  a  criminal  prosecution — being  an  habitual  drunkard  or  gam- 
bler, a  vagrant  or  keeping  a  gaming-house. 

The  rights  of  citizenship  are  lost  by  conviction  of  an  infamous  crime,  or  for 
fraudulent  bankruptcy,  or  by  malversation  in  any  public  office. 

The  legislative  power  is  composed  of  a  house  of  deputies  and  a  senate,  one 
deputy  for  every  seventy  thousand  inhabitants  ;  a  supernumerary  deputy  shall  be 
elected  in  all  cases  to  serve  in  the  absence  of  the  regular  deputy. 

The  age  prescribed  for  members  of  Congress  is  thirty  years.  They  must 
have  an  annual  income  of  twelve  hundred  dollars.  One  half  of  the  members  to 
be  re-elected  every  two  years. 

The  Senate  is  composed  of  sixty-three  members,  two-thirds  of  whom  are  to 
be  elected  by  the  departmental  assemblies,  the  other  third  by  the  House  of 


52  INHABITANTS,    POrULATION    AND   GOVERNMENT   OP   MEXICO. 

Deputies,  the  President  of  the  Republic,  and  the  Supreme  Court ;  each  depart' 
ment  to  vote  for  twenty-three  persons,  and  those  having  the  highest  number  of 
votes  of  the  aggregate  of  all  the  departmental  assemblies  are  elected  Senators. 
The  judges  of  the  Supreme  Court  and  the  President  shall  vote  in  like  manner 
for  the  remaining  third  ;  and  out  of  the  names  thus  voted  for  by  each  of  those 
departments  of  the  government,  the  House  of  Deputies  selects  the  proper  num- 
ber (twenty-one.)  The  first  selection  of  this  third  of  the  Senators  to  be  made 
by  the  President  alone. 

The  President  of  the  Republic  and  Judges  of  the  Supreme  Court  are  required 
to  vote  only  for  such  persons  as  have  distinguished  themselves  by  important 
public  services,  civil,  military,  or  ecclesiastical.  Amongst  others  disqualified  from 
being  elected  members  of  the  House  of  Deputies  are  the  Archbishops,  Bishops, 
and  other  high  Ecclesiastical  officers. 

The  Senators  elected  by  the  Departments  are  required  to  be  five  agricultU" 
rists,  and  the  same  number  of  each  of  the  following  occupations — miners,  mer- 
chants, and  manufacturers  ;  the  remainder  to  be  elected  from  persons  who  have 
filled  the  office  of  President,  Minister  of  State,  Foreign  Minister,  Governor  of 
a  Department,  Senator,  Deputy,  Bishop,  or  General  of  Division.  The  age  of 
a  Senator  is  thirty-five  years,  and  an  annual  income  of  two  thousand  dollars  is 
required. 

One-third  of  the  Senate  to  be  renewed  every  three  years. 

All  laws  must  originate  in  the  House  of  Deputies.    / 

All  treaties  must  be  approved  by  both  Houses  of  Congress.  Congress  has  a 
veto  upon  all  the  decrees  of  the  Departmental  Assemblies  which  are  opposed  to 
the  Constitution  or  the  laws  of  Congress. 

Congress  are  forbidden  to  alter  the  laws  laying  duties  on  imports  which  are 
intended  for  the  protection  of  domestic  industry. 

No  retrospective  law  or  laws  impairing  the  obligations  of  contracts  to  be  passed* 

The  Senate  to  approve  the  President's  nomination  of  foreign  ministers,  con- 
suls, and  of  ofiicers  in  the  army  above  the  rank  of  Colonel. 

Members  of  Congress  not  to  receive  executive  appointments  except  with  cer- 
tain limitations,  amongst  which  is  the  consent  of  the  body  to  which  they  belong. 

The  other  powers  of  Congress  are  pretty  much  the  same  as  in  our  own  and 
other  popular  Constitutions.  The  President  must  be  a  native  of  the  country, 
and  a  layman,  and  hold  his  office  for  the  term  of  five  years.  It  is  made  his  duty 
to  supervise  the  courts  of  justice,  and  he  may  prescribe  the  order  in  which  cases 
shall  be  tried.  He  may  impose  fines  not  exceeding  five  hundred  dollars  upon 
those  who  disobey  his  lawful  commands.  Certain  large  powers  are  conferred 
upon  him  in  relation  to  Concordats,  Bulls,  Decrees,  and  other  ecclesiastical 
matters.  He  possesses  a  very  qualified  veto  upon  the  acts  of  Congress.  He 
may  call  an  extra  session  of  Congress,  and  prescribe  the  only  subjects  to  be 
considered.  He  cannot  exercise  any  military  command  without  the  consent 
of  Congress.  He  cannot  leave  the  Republic  during  his  term  of  office,  nor 
for  one  year  after  its  expiration,  but  with  the  cou-ont  of  Congress,  nor  go 
more  than  six  leagues  from  the  Capital,  without  the  like  permission.  He  can 
in  no  case  alienate,  exchange  or  mortage  any  portion  of  the  territory  of  the 
Republic.  All  his  acts  must  be  approved  by  fhe  Secretary  of  the  Department 
to  which  it  properly  belongs.  He  cannot  be  prosecuted  criminally  except  for 
Treason  against  the  national  independence  or  the  form  of  government  established 
by  the  Constitution  during  his  term  of  office,  nor  for  one  year  afterwards. 

During  the  temporary  absence  of  the  President,  his  functions  devolve  upon 
the  President  of  the  Senate  ;  if  his  absence  continues  longer  than  fifteen  days 
a  President  ad  interim  shall  be  elected  by  the  Senate.  The  other  grants  of 
power  to  the  Executive  seem  to  be  pretty  much  copied  from  our  own  Constitution, 

The  difTerent  Secretaries  may  attend  the  Sessions  of  either  branch  of  Con- 


INHABITANTS,    POPULATION    AND    GOVERNMENT    OF    MEXICO.  53 

gress,  whenever  required  by  them,  or  so  ordered  by  the  President,  to  give  any 
explanations  which  may  be  desired.  The  Secretaries  arc  responsible  for  all  acts 
of  the  President  in  violation  of  the  Constitution  and  laws  which  they  may  have 
approved. 

The  Council  of  the  President  consists  of  seventeen  members  selected  by  him- 
self. These  Councillors  must  be  thirty-five  years  old,  and  have  served  at  least 
ten  years'  without  intermission  in  some  public  station. 

The  Judges  of  the  Supreme  Court  must  be  forty  years  old. 
The  government  may  be  impleaded  in  this  Court  by  any  individual  (I  think  a 
wise  and  just  provision) ;  as  may  also  t:he  Archbishops  and  Bishops  in  panicular 
cases. 

A  permanent  court  martial  is  also  organized,  composed  of  Generals  and  law- 
yers, appointed  by  the  President. 

Each  Department  has  an  assembly  of  not  more  than  eleven,  nor  less  than 
seven  members.  Their  powers  are  to  impose  taxes  for  the  use  of  the  Depart- 
ment; establish  schools  and  charitable  institutions  ;  make  roads  and  keep  them 
in  order;  arrange  the  mode  of  raising  troops  w^iich  may  be  required  of  the  De- 
partment ;  establish  corporations  ;  superintend  the  police,  and  encourage  agri- 
culture ;  propose  laws  to  the  Congress,  and  fit  persons  to  the  President  for  the 
office  ol  Governor  of  the  Department  (from  the  persons  thus  recommended,  the 
President,  except  in  extraordinary  cases,  must  make  the  selection,)  establish 
judicial  tribunals  for  their  Departments,  with  many  other  powers  of  a  similar 
character,  and  constituting  the  assembly  a  sort  of  state  legislature,  with  juris- 
diction of  matters  appertaining  strictly  to  the  Department. 

The  whole  Republic  is  divided  into  sections  of  five  hundred  inhabitants.  Each 
of  these  sections  selects  by  ballot  one  elector.  These  electors  in  turn  elect 
others  in  the  ratio  of  one  for  every  twenty  of  the  electors  thus  primarily  elected. 
These  last  constitute  the  electoral  college  of  the  Department,  which  again  elect 
the  deputies  of  the  general  Congress,  and  the  members  of  the  Departmental 
assembly.  All  persons  who  have  attained  the  age  of  twenty-five  years  are  eli- 
gible as  primary  electors.  The  secondary  electors  must  also  have  an  income  of 
five  hundred  dollars  a  year.  On  the  first  of  November  preceding  the  expiration 
of  the  term  of  office  of  the  President,  each  of  the  Departmental  assemblies  is 
required  to  meet  and  cast  their  votes  for  his  succ?ssor.  A  majority  of  the  votes 
of  this  assembly  decides  the  vole  of  this  Department.  On  the  second  day  of 
January  both  houses  of  Congress  assemble  together  and  declare  the  election. 
If  no  one  has  received  the  votes  of  a  majority  of  the  Departments,  the  two 
houses  of  Congress  make  the  election  from  the  two  who  have  received  the 
greatest  number  of  votes.  If  more  than  two  have  an  equal  number  of  votes, 
the  election  is  made  from  those  who  have  received  such  equal  number.  If  one 
has  received  a  high  number,  and  two  others  have  received  a  less  and  equal  num- 
ber of  votes,  Congress  selects  by  ballot  one  of  these  last  to  compete  with  him 
who  has  received  a  high  number.  This  election  is  required  to  be  finished  in  a 
a  single  session. 

In  cases  of  a  tie  a  second  time  in  these  elections,  the  choice  is  to  be  made  by  lot. 
Punishments  shall  in  no  case  ex1.end  to  confiscation  of  property,  or  to  attainder. 
No  cruel  punishment  shall  be  inflicted  in  capital  cases,  only  such  as  are  neces- 
sary to  take  life. 

The  Judges  are  responsible  for  any  irregularities  or  mistakes  in  their  official 
proceedings.     They  hold  their  offices  for  life. 

Amendments  of  the  Constitution  to  be  made  by  a  vole  of  two-thirds  of  both 
branches  of  Congress. 

The  Catholic  religion  is  established  to  the  exclusion  of  all  others.  Most  of 
the  other  provisions  of  the  Constitution  seem  to  be  almost  exactly  copied  from 
that  of  the  United  States. 


54  TH  E     AK  M  Y  . 

CHAPTER        IX. 

THE      ARMY. 

The  unsettled  state  of  Mexico,  and  the  rapid  succession  of  its  political  revo- 
lutions, have  prevented  the  collection  of  statistical  information  of  every  sort ;  a 
census  of  the  country  has  not  been  taken  since  the  revolution  in  1810,  not  even 
for  the  purpose  of  arranging  the  ratio  of  representatives  in  Congress.  It  is  there- 
fore impossible  to  give  a  correct  statistical  view  of  the  Army  and  Navy. 

In  1827,  Mr.  Ward,  the  British  Charge,  had  recourse  to  the  public  documents, 
and  from  them,  gave  the  condition  of  the  military  and  naval  force  of  that  period. 
Mexico  was  then  divided  into  eighteen  military  districts,  each  under  the  order  of 
a  Commandant,  who  received  his  instructions  from  the  Minister  of  War.  The 
whole  military  force  for  that  year,  consisted  of  58,955  men,  of  whom  J^2,161 
were  actually  under  arms ;  the  remainder  ready  to  be  called  out  should  their 
services  be  required.  The  troops  of  the  line  were  composed  of  twelve  battalions 
of  Infantry,  each  of  823  men,  (full  war  compliment,  1,223)  ;  twelve  regiments 
of  Cavalry,  each  of  559  men,  (war  compliment,  815)  ;  and  three  brigades  of 
Artillery,  of  1,767  men  in  all.  In  addition  to  these,  there  were  thirty-four  Presi- 
dial  companies,  consisting  entirely  of  Cavalry,  and  employed,  principally,  in  the 
protection  of  the  northern  frontier ;  and  eleven  companies  of  local  Infantry  and 
Cavalry,  distributed  upon  different  points  of  the  coast.  The  first  consisted  of 
3,317  men  in  all ;  the  second  of  1,120 ;  making  a  grand  total  of  22,788  regular 
troops  under  arms. 

Mexico  possesses  only  five  fortresses,  St.  Juan  de  Ulloa,  Campeche,  Perote, 
Acapulco,  and  San  Bias — most  of  them  in  a  state  of  decay. 

The  following  table,  made  up  from  the  Government  Report,  exhibits  the  quan- 
tity of  arms  of  all  kinds,  in  the  public  magazines,  or  distributed  among  the  troops. 
Most  of  the  muskets,  sabres,  pistols,  and  lances,  were  purchased  in  1824,  and  are 
in  good  order.  The  brass  artillery  are  all  of  Spanish  manufacture,  and 
beautiful;  but  many  of  the  iron  guns,  twenty  years  ago,  were  unfit  for  service; 
but  since  that  time  large  additions  have  been  made  to  their  military  stores: — 

QUANTITY  OF  ARMS  IN  POSSESSION  OF  THE  MEXICAN  GOVERNMENT  IN  1827. 

Brass  cannon  of  different  calibres  _         _         -         308 

Iron        do  do         -         -         -         -  456 

Brass  culverines  -.-__-  35 

Mortars  _.._-..  17 

Corranades,  &c.  _--___  93 

Cannon  balls  of  from  36  to  6  -         -         -         210,145 

Rounds  of  grape  ------     19,913 

Shells  - 38,644 

Muskets 111,564 

Rifles  2,000 

Carbines    - 15,280 

Pistols  (pairs) 8,000 

Sabres,  &c.         -         - 26,500 

Lances 6,000 

Ball  cartridges 3,701,113 

Of  the  present  actual  condition  of  the  military  force  of  Mexico,  we  cannot  for 
the  reasons  already  stated,  speak  with  any  degree  of  accuracy  ;  we  must  rely 
upon  the  personal  observation  of  intelligent  writers,  whose  residence  in  Mexico 
has  given  them  some  knowledge  of  its  military  and  naval  affairs. 


THEARMY.  35 

In  1840,  according  to  Mr.  Mayer,  the  Mexican  Army  was  composed  of  14 
Generals  of  Division,  26  Generals  of  Brigade.  Artillery — .']  Brigades,  on  foot; 
!  do.  mounted  ;  5  separate  companies.  Engineer  Corps — 1  Director  General, 
3  Colonels,  6  Lieutenant  Colonels,  1  Adjutant,  11  Captains,  IG  Lieutenants,  10 
sub-Lieutenants.  Sappers — 1  Battalion.  Permanent  Infantry — S  Regiments 
of  2  battalions  each,  each  battalion  of  8  companies,  each  company  of  112  men, 
officers  included— or,  in  all,  14,336  persons;  each  soldier  is  paid  $11,93  3-4 
per  month.  Active  Infantry — 9  Regiments  ;  this  body  differs  from  the  preced- 
ing, in  being  liable  to  service  only  when  required  by  Governmeni,  or  in  other 
words,  it  is  a  sort  of  national  militia,  well  drilled.  Total  number,  16,128. 
Permanent  Cavalry — 8  Regiments,  each  regiment  composed  of  2  squadrons,  each 
squadron  of  2  companies  ;  each  regiment  composed  in  all  of  676  men — or  the  8 
of  4,056  men,  under  a  nominal  pay  of  812,50  per  month  ;  35  separate  compa- 
nies in  various  places  throughout  the  Republic.  Active  Cavalry — 6  Regiments, 
of  4  squadrons,  each  squadron  of  2  companies. 

The  whole  force  amounting  to  about  40,000  :  tbis  has  been  increased  since 
1840,  and  is  now  estimated  at  50,000.  Each  officer  and  soldier  is  his  own 
commissary,  no  rations  being  issued. 

From  a  work,  written  by  M.  Duflot  de  Mofras,  entitled  "  Exportation  du  Ter- 
ritoire  de  I'Oregon,  des  Californies,  et  de  la  Mer  Vermeill^,"  and  lately  published 
in  Paris,  by  order  of  the  French  King,  under  the  auspices  of  the  President  of  the 
Council,  (Marshal  Soult),  and  of  the  Minister  of  Foreign  Affairs,  (M.  Guizot), 
we  make  the  followin<r  interesting  extract : — 

"  The  Mexican  army  is  recruited  in  part  by  the  aid  of  countrymen  and  Indi- 
ans torn  by  force  from  their  villages,  and  in  part  arfiong  tl)e  criminals  shut  up 
in  the  prisons  and  penitentiaries.  I  was  myself  informed  by  a  Mexican  colonel 
at  Guadalajara,  that,  in  order  to  supply  the  place  of  deserters,  he  had  caused  the 
eight  hundred  malefactors  in  the  public  prison  to  be  paraded  before  him  by 
squads,  in  order  to  choose  from  among  them  the  best-looking  and  most  robust 
men.  This  being  done  in  the  first  place,  he  then  inquired  of  each  one  the  length 
of  his  punishment,  and  a  convict,  for  instance,  who  had  been  condemned  to 
imprisonment  at  hard  labour  for  ten  years,  had  the  residue  of  his  punishment 
remitted,  on  condition  of  his  serving  five  years  in  a  regiment.  What  could  be 
expected  from  such  soldiers?  In  Europe,  the  military  uniform  is,  for  him  who 
wears  it,  an  honourable  distinction.  The  army  is  purified  constantly  by  turning 
over  the  criminals  to  penitentiary  establishments.  In  Mexico,  the  difference 
between  the  galley-slave  and  the  soldier  is  almost  null,  since,  as  we  see,  the 
regiments  are  filled  up  by  means  of  miserable  bandits. 

"  Desertion  cannot  fail  to  be  very  great  in  an  army  where  no  military  disci- 
pline is  exercised,  where  no  authority  is  respected  :  tlie  countrymen  escape  and 
regain  their  farms,  while  the  malefactors  rejoin  their  bands,  or  hide  themselves 
in  the  suburbs  of  the  cities. 

"  In  spite  of  the  efforts  of  the  new  President  (Santa  Anna)  to  augment  the 
military  resources  of  Mexico,  he  has  only  succeeded  thus  far,  in  forming  an 
effective  force  of  twenty  thousand  soldiers,  in  rags,  barefoot  in  great  part,  and 
armed  with  bad  English  muskets. 

"  The  regiments  of  infantry  are  commonly  composed  of  two  battalions,  and 
are  commanded  by  a  colonel.  Each  battalion,  under  the  orders  of  a  lieutenant- 
colonel,  and  frequently  of  an  honorary  colonel,  is  at  the  most  of  three  hundred 
men,  and  many  of  them  do  not  count  one  hundred  and  fifty.  The  companies, 
of  twenty-five  to  thirty  men,  have  for  commander  a  lieutenant-colonel  or  major, 
to  whom  are  joined  a  captain,  two  lieutenants,  and  two  sub-Iicutenants,  that  is 
to  say,  one  officer  for  four  soldiers.  There  are  the  same  disproportions  and  the 
same  disorders  in  the  cavalry,  and  squadrons  of  fifty  men  include  six  or  seven 
officers. 


SSf 


THE     ARMY, 


"  The  artillery  would  find  it  difficult  to  assemble  thirty  field-pieces,  mounted 
and  of  the  same  calibre:  as  to  siege,  hill,  and  coast  batteries,  workmen,  bridge- 
equipages,  and  artillery-train,  they  are  things  wholly  unknown.  Almost  all  the 
powder,  even,  has  to  be  bought  in  the  United   States  or  in  England. 

"  The  engineer-arm,  which  is  quite  on  a  level  with  the  artillery  in  regard  to 
materiel,  is  composed  of  a  battalion  of  two  hundred  men  in  garriso-n  at  Malamo- 
ras,  and  of  a  company  occupying  the  barracks,  ridiculously  called  the  citadel  of 
Mexico." 

"  It  will  be  perceived,  that,  judging  from  the  number  and  composition  of  the 
etats-majors,  the  Mexican  army  ought  to  exceed  that  of  all  Europe  united;  for 
though  it  has  hardly  twenty  thousand  soldiers, \\.  counts  twenty-four  thousand  officers, 

"  Besides,  if  mere  individual  courage  is  not  wanting  either  to  officers  or 
soldiers,  still  it  is  not  sustained  by  that  ardour  of  patriotism,  which  enables  men 
to  bear  up  patiently  under  sufferings,  privations,  and  reverses,  and  facilitates  the 
greatest  achivements." 

"  Composed  of  six  (seven)  millions  of  inhabitants,  Mexico  is  subjected  to  the 
intrigues  of  six  or  seven  thousand  officers  ;  and  *  *  *  this  beauiiful  country, 
so  prosperous  and  so  opulent  when  it  was  called  New-Spain,  is  now  crashed 
beneath  a  military  despotism. 

"  At  every  point  of  the  Mexican  territory,  the  magnificent  works  of  fortifica- 
tion, erected  at  great  cost  by  the  Spaniards,  are  falling  into  ruins.  The  frontiers 
of  the  North  are  stripped,  and  the  northern  provinces  wasted  by  hordes  of  savages, 
who  advance  to  within  thirty  leagues  of  the  city  of  Mexico." 

Hon.  Waddy  Thompson,  our  late  Mexican  minister,  in  speaking  of  the  Mexi- 
can army,  says  that  they  are  generally  collected  "by  sending  out  recruiting 
detachments  into  the  mountains,  where  they  hunt  the  Indians  in  their  dens  and 
caverns,  and  bring  them  in  chains  to  Mexico  ;  there  is  scarcely  a  day  that  droves 
of  these  miserable  and  more  than  half  naked  wretches  are  not  seen  thus  chained 
together,  and  marching  through  the  streets  to  the  barracks,  where  they  are 
scoured,  and  then  dressed  in  a  uniform  made  of  linen  cloth  or  of  serge,  and  are 
occasionally  drilled,  which  drilling  consists  mainly  in  teaching  them  to  march 
in  column  through  the  streets.  Their  military  bands  are  good,  and  the  men 
learn  to  march  indifferently  well,  but  only  indifferently  well ;  they  put  their  feet 
down  as  if  they  were  feeling  for  the  place,  and  do  not  step  with  that  erect  and 
graceful  air  which  is  so  beautiful  in  well-drilled  troops.  As  to  the  wheelings 
of  well-trained  troops,  or  the  prompt  and  exact  execution  of  other  evolutions, 
they  know  nothing  about  them.  There  is  not  one  in  ten  of  these  soldiers  who 
has  ever  seen  a  gun,  nor  one  in  a  hundred  who  has  ever  fired  one  before  he  was 
brought  into  barracks.  It  is  in  this  way  that  the  ranks  of  the  army  are  generally 
filled  up.  In  particular  emergencies  the  prisons  are  thrown  open,  which  always 
contain  more  prL-^oners  than  the  army  numbers,  and  these  felons  become  soldiers, 
and  some  of  them  officers.  Their  arms,  too,  are  generally  worthless  English 
muskets,  which  have  been  condemned  and  thrown  aside,  and  are  purchased  at 
a  low  rate  by  the  Mexican  government.  Their  powder,  too,  is  equally  bad  ;  in 
the  last  battle  between  Santa  Anna  and  Bustamcnte,  which  lasted  the  whole  day, 
not  one  cannon  ball  in  a  thousand  reached  the  enemy ;  they  generally  fell  about 
half  wav  between  the  opposing  armies." 

The  Rancheros  form  an  important  part  of  the  Mexican  cavalry,  and  in  the 
late  contest  on  the  Eio  Grande,  they  bore  a  conspicuous  part;  among  their 
achievements  was  the  murder  of  Col.  Cross,  before  active  hostilities  commenced 
between  the  two  armies.  "  Kancheros "  is  an  appellation  derived  from  their 
occupation  and  mode  of  life,  and  is  common  to  a  similar  class  of  men  who  sub- 
sist on  the  pampas  of  South  America,  half  Indian  and  half  Spanish  in  their 
extraction,  gaunt,  shrivelled,  though  muscular  in  their  frames,  and  dark  and 
svvarthy-visaged  as  they  are,  these  men  are  the  Arabs  of  the  American  continent. 


T  H  E     N  A  V  Y  .  57 

Living  half  of  the  time  in  the  saddle,  for  they  are  unrivalled  horsemen,  with 
lasso  in  hand  they  traverse  those  va^t  plains  in  search  of  the  buffalo  and  wild 
horse,  who  roam  them  in  countless  herds.  The  killing  of  these  animals,  and 
the  preparation  and  pale  of  their  hides,  is  their  sole  means  of  livelihood,  other 
than  occasionally  lending  a  helping  hand  to  some  of  the  partisans  in  the  civil 
wars  iliat  are  being  continually  waged  around  them.  Their  costume  generally 
consists  of  a  pair  of  tough  hide  leggins  with  sandals  of  the  same  material  bound 
together  with  leathern  thongs,  over  which  is  a  blanket  with  a  hole  in  the  centre 
large  enough  to  allow  the  head  to  be  thrust  out,  and  which  falls  not  ungracefully 
over  their  shoulders,  leaving  ample  room  for  the  play  of  their  arms.  Add  to 
this  a  broad  straw  sombrero,  and  the  lasso  hanging  at  his  saddle-pummel, 
and  you  have  the  Ranchero  as  he  appears  in  the  time  of  peace,  or  in  the  pursuit 
of  his  occupation.  Join  to  this  a  long  lance  with  a  sharp  spear  head,  ornamented 
with  a  strip  of  red  bunting,  on  a  horse  as  savage  and  unmanageable  as  himself, 
and  his  belt  plentifully  supplied  with  pistols  and  knives,  and  you  have  the  Ran- 
chero as  a  member  of  the  troop  of  banditti,  or  as  a  soldier  in  a  body  of  cavalry. 
Cowardly  as  they  generally  are  in  the  open  field,  yet  in  a  conflict  among  the 
chapparels  of  Mexico,  or  in  an  atnbuscade,  they  are  indeed  a  formidable  enemy. 
Their  power  of  enduring  fatigue  is  almost  inexhaustible,  and  a  scanty  meal  per 
diem  of  jerked  beef  and  plantain  suffices  them  during  months. 

Such  are  the  Ranchcros,  and  under  disciplined  control  they  would  be  rendered 
the  best  light  troops  in  the  world.  These  are  the  men  who  comprise  the  great 
body  of  the  Mexican  cavalry,  and  they  are  to  the  armies  of  that  nation  what  the 
Cossacks  are  to  the  Russians — ever  on  the  alert,  never  to  be  surprised,  and 
untiring  in  the  pursuit  of  the  foe  when  plunder,  no  matter  how  trifling,  is  to  be 
obtained. 

Such  is  the  condition  and  character  of  the  Mexican  army  ;  but  notwithstanding 
the  materials  of  which  it  is  composed,  it  contains  some  men  as  brave  as  ever 
fought  upon  a  battle  field.  The  gallant  manner  in  which  they  conducted  them- 
selves in  the  recent  battles  on  the  Rio  Grande,  has  given  the  American  people  a 
high  estimate  of  Mexican  valour. 

All  accounts  represent  the  Mexicans  as  having  fought,  on  the  8th  and  9th  of 
May  last,  with  the  courage  and  desperation  which  would  have  reflected  credit 
on  the  troops  of  any  nation.  They  were  nearly  in  a  state  of  starvation,  and  had 
been  promised  the  ample  supplies  of  the  American  camp,  in  case  they  should 
secure  the  victory.  They  met  the  charge  of  our  troops  manfully,  and  stood  the 
destructive  fire  pouring  in  upon  them  without  giving  way,  until  the  works  were 
encumbered  with  the  dead  and  wounded  ;  but  notwithstanding  their  bravery, 
Mexicans  cannot  contend  successfully  against  the  superior  skill  and  scientific 
knowdedge  of  our  officers,  nor  against  the  perfect  discipline  of  our  troops  ;  there- 
fore, in  all  contests  with  American  soldiers,  they  must  be  defeated. 

T  H  E      N  A  V  Y  . 

When  the  Spanish  troops,  after  being  driven  from  the  capital  and  continent, 
occupied  the  castle  of  San  Juan  d'UUoa,  the  necessity  of  driving  them  froi'ft  this 
last  stronghold,  and  the  impossibility  of  eflTecting  it  without  a  naval  force,  induced 
the  government  to  purchase  six  gunboats  and  two  sloops  of  war  in  the  United^ 
States,  which,  with  one  brig  and  two  launches  on  the  Pacific  side,  constituted, 
in  1823,  the  whole  navy  of  Mexico.  During  the  siege  of  the  castle,  which 
continued  until  November,  1825,  this  force  gradually  increased  ;  until,  in  1827, 
it  consisted  of  one  ship  of  the  line,  two  frigates,  one  corvette,  four  brigs,  one 
schooner,  four  gunboats,  four  large  launches,  and  two  pilot  boats.  With  a 
squadron  co:^, posed  of  such  materials.  Com.  Porter  attempted  to  blockade  Ha- 
vana, but  he  was  unable  to  keep  the  sea  a  moment  before  Admiral  Laborde' 


S8  REVENUE RESOURCES EXPENDITURES — PUBLIC    DEBT. 

squadron,  and  was  forced  to  take  refuge  in  Key  West,  whence  he  did  not  extri- 
cate himself  for  some  time. 

The  present  effective  force  consists  of  the  steamer  Guadalupe,  77S  tons,  two 
68  shell  guns,  four  of  12,  and  a  machine  for  rockets  ;  steamer  Montezuma,  1100 
tons,  one  63  shell  gun,  two  long  32's,  two  32  pound  gunnades,  two  32  pound 
carronades,  and  a  machine  for  rockets;  brig  Mexican,  one  shell  gun  of  12,  and 
fourteen  gunnades  of  IS;  brig  Vera  Cruzana  Libre,  one  shell  gun  of  32,  six 
gunnades  of  18,  and  12  pound  carronades  ;  brig  Tempoalteca,  six  carronades  of 
12  ;  schooner  Eagle,  one  shell  gun  of  32,  and  six  18  pound  carronades  ;  schooner 
Liberty,  one  shell  gun  of  12 ;  schooner  Morelos,  one  shell  gun  of  12 ;  and  four 
gunboats,  each  mounting  a  long  24  pounder  on  a  pivot.  All  these  vessels  are 
stated  to  be  deficient  in  men;  and,  with  the  exception  of  the  two  steamers  and 
gunboats,  require  repairs  before  they  would  be  able  to  put  to  sea. 

It  is  uncertain  whether  the  steamers  Guadalupe  and  Montezuma  now  actually 
belong  to  the  Mexican  government.  It  is  said  that  they  were  given  as  security 
by  the  Mexican  government  to  an  English  firm  in  Vera  Cruz,  Messrs.  M-lntosh 
&  Manning,  for  a  loan  of  between  500  and  $600,000.  This  firm  having  posses- 
sion of  them,  and  being  desirous  of  protecting  their  own  interests,  took  advantage 
of  the  absence  of  the  American  squadron  under  Com.  Conner,  to  send  them  to 
Havana,  a  neutral  port,  v/here  they  arrived  under  British  colours  on  the  24th 
of  May  last. 


CHAPTER    X. 

REVENUE,  RESOURCES,  EXPENDITURES,  AND  PUBLIC  DEBT. 

The  Revenue  of  Mexico  is  derived  from  duties  on  imports  and  exports:  from 
imposts  on  internal  commerce,  from  direct  taxation,  from  the  post  office,  stamped 
paper,  tobacco,  lotteries,  cockpits,  and  playing  cards ;  from  the  excise  on  ice  and 
pulque,  which  is  the  common  beverage  of  the  people,  and  from  other  sources  of 
trifling  importance. 

The  tariff  of  duties  on  imports  is  constantly  changing,  but  always  high.  A 
few  years  ago,  the  duty  on  all  goods  not  prohibited,  was  25  per  cent,  ad  valorem  ; 
on  most  articles,  the  value  was  fixed  by  the  tariff,  the  residue  was  to  be  valued 
by  appraisers.  Tobacco,  in  leaf,  snuff,  and  segars,  paid  a  duty  of  82  a  pound. 
Raw  cotton,  cotton  yarn  below  No.  60,  cotton  tapes,  and  twist,  wrought  wax, 
macaroni,  vermicelli,  gold,  silver,  and  silk  lace,  and  a  few  other  articles,  were 
entirely  prohibited. 

The  articles  which  may  be  imported  free  of  duty  are  as  follows: 

S^entific  and  surgical  instruments,  quicksilver,  all  unbound  books,  except  those 
contrary  to  the  Catholic  religion,  which  are  strictly  prohibited,  drawings,  paintings, 
sculpture,  models  and  designs  for  teaching  different  arts,  useful  machinery,  printed 
or  manuscript  music,  exotic  seeds  or  plants,  flax,  raw  or  manufactured,  and  a  few 
other  articles. 

All  produce  of  the  country  may  be  exported  free  of  duty  except  cochineal, 
vanilla,  gold,  and  silver. 

In  1S40,  (according  to  Mr.  Mayer,  who  had  recourse  to  the  best  sources  of 
information,)  the  revenues  are  stated,  in  the  report  of  the  minister  of  the  treasury, 
as  follows : 


Total 

$12,744,157 

'or  the  years  1841  and  1842. 

Tonnage  Duty. 

Net  Proceeds. 

$31,032 

$3,374,528 

-      7,363 

1,019,046 

3,525 

279,627 

-      6,245 

397,213 

2,092 

46,189 

810 

85,982 

573 

7,193 

2,719 

190,270 

REVENUE RESOURCES EXPENDITURES PUBLIC    DEBT.  fi9 

Net  proceeds,  after  deducting  expenses  of  collection 

Imposts  on  foreign  commerce         -  -           $7,115,849 

Do.     on  interior        -             -  -             -     4,306,535 

Do.     on  property,  income,  &c.  -                466,061 

Exchanges,  &c.             -             -  -             -        307,427 

Creditos  activos     -             -             -  -                     3,309 

Balances  of  accounts     -             -  -             -               355 

Enteros  de  productos  liquidos         -  -                452,146 

Extraordinary  subsidy                .  .             _                103 

Arbitrio  estraordinario       .             -  -                  78,177 

Capiiacion        -             _             -  .             _               483 

Donations              _            _             _  -                  13,662 


Custom  Houses. 
Vera  Cruz    - 
Tampico 
Matamoras 
Mazatlan 
Guayamas 
Monterey 
Acapulco 
San  Bias     - 

Total,  $55,259  $5,399,948 

Reports  from  the  other  custom-houses  of  the  republic  had  not  been  received. 

A  very  large  revenue  is  derived  from  internal  commerce,  as  every  article  of 
commerce  passing  from  one  department  to  another,  provided  it  has  been  opened, 
pays  a  heavy  tax.  The  duty  on  money,  for  example,  sent  from  Mexico  to  Vera 
Cruz  to  be  exported,  is  five  per  cent.,  besides  the  six  per  cent,  duty  for  its  ex- 
portation. In  1840,  the  revenue  from  this  source  amounted  to  four  millions  and 
a  half. 

Direct  taxation  is  another  fruitful  source  of  revenue,  for  every  thing  is  taxed, 
'•  from  the  splendid  palaces,  coaches,  and  plate  of  the  wealthy,  to  the  dozen 
eggs  which  the  poor  Indian  brings  to  market."  A  large  revenue  is  received 
from  the  product  of  the  mines,  as  it  receives  about  five  per  cent. 

The  government  enjoys  a  monopoly  of  the  tobacco  trade,  the  net  proceeds  of 
which  is  equal  to  about  $600,000  per  annum.  The  culture  of  tobacco  is  pro- 
hibited, except  in  the  districts  of  Orizaba  and  Cordova,  where  it  is  limited  to  a 
certain  number  of  acres.  The  tobacco  thus  produced,  is  sold  to  the  government 
agents  at  a  stated  price,  much  below  its  real  value,  and  by  them  manufactured 
into  segars  and  snufF,  and  sold  at  a  large  profit.  * 

The  Indians  bring  ice  upon  their  backs  from  the  mountains,  a  distance  of  some 
forty  miles  from  Mexico,  from  which  the  government  derives  a  large  revenue, 
some  years  amounting  to  $50,000. 

A  very  considerable  amount  of  revenue  is  received  from  special  licenses  given 
to  merchants  or  private  companies  to  import  articles  prohibited  by  law,  for  which 
a  stipulated  sum  is  paid. 

The  following,  although  not  pretending  to  minute  accuracy,  may  be  regarded 
as  in  some  degree  an  approximation  to  a  correct  estimate  of  the  present  revenues 
of  the  government,  and  the  sources  from  which  they  are  derived. 


REVENUE RESOURCES EXPENDITURES PUBLIC    DEBT. 

From  maritime  custom-houses       -             -  $6,500,000 

Interior  commerce         .             -             -  .     4,500,000 

Direct  taxes           -             -             -             -  3,000,000 

Per  cenlao-o  on  produce  of  mines            -  -     1,000,000 

Profis  of  Mints              ...  -        500,000 

Tobacco  monopoly              ...  500,000 
Post  office,  lotteries,  manufactures  of  powder  and 

salt    '          -             -             -             -  500,000 

Tolls  and  all  other  sources              -             -  500,000 


Total,  $16,000,000 

It  is  proper  to  add  to  this  amount  the  taxes  levied  by  the  different  departments, 
which  may  be  stated  at  four  millions  more,  making  an  aggregate  of  twenty-one 
millions,  to  which  an  addition  should  be  made  of  five  or  ten  millions  more,  which 
is  paid,  but  embezzled,  and  therefore  does  not  find  its  way  into  the  public  treasury. 

In  1803,  according  to  Mr.  Poinsett,  the  government  received  for  the  sale  of 
playing  cards,  $120,000;  from  cockpits,  $45,000;  for  the  sale  of  Papal  indul- 
gences, $270,000 ! 

In  1829,  the  revenues  amounted  to  $11,215,848.  The  income  from  the  post 
office,  was  $178,738.  In  1840,  the  lotteries  produced  $215,  437;  the  cost  of 
managing  them  as  $158,455,  leaving  a  balance  of  $58,952. 

Expenses  of  the  Gove.r7iment. 

In  1833,  according  t)  the  report  of  the  secretary  of  the  treasury,  the  expenses 
amounted  to  $22,392,508.  Of  this  sum,  $16,466,121  was  devoted  to  the  army. 
In  1840,  the  whole  expenses  were  $13,155,922;  of  the  army,  $8,000,000.   ' 

The  restrictions  placed  upon  commerce,  both  internal  and  external,  have  given 
rise  to  an  immense  amount  of  smuggling,  which  the  republic  has  no  power  to 
prevent;  as  the  reader  will  at  once  perceive,  when  he  learns  the  fact,  that 
Mexico  possesses  a  frontier  of  five  thousand  miles  on  the  Pacific,  three  thou- 
sand miles  on  the  United  States  and  Texas,  and  above  two  thousand  five  hundred 
miles  on  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  ;  making  in  all  ten  thousand  five  hundred  miles  of 
frontier  to  guard  against  illicit  trade,  without  scarcely  an  individual  on  the  whole 
space  to  give  notice  of  any  depredation  that  may  happen. 

Puhlic  Belt. 
The  public  debt  of  Mexico  is  at  the  present  time  quite  formidable.  In  1841,  Mr. 
Mayer  says  it  was  $84,150,000.  Mr.  Thompson  gives  it,  in  1844,  as  a  little 
less  than  $100,000,000  ;  and  as  they  are  now  engaged  in  the  third  war  sinc« 
that  period,  it  is  safe  to  say  that  the  public  debt  is  now  more  than  .$100,000,000. 
In  1842,  the  internal  debi  amounted  to  $18,550,000;  for  the  payment  of  which 
the  customs  were  mortgaged,  and  was  to  be  paid  in  the  following  subdivisions: 
17  per  cent,  of  the  customs  devoted  to  a  debt  of  $2,040,000 


15       do. 

do.                       do. 

410,000 

12      do. 

do.                       do. 

2,100,000 

10      do. 

do.                       do. 

3,100,000 

8      do. 

do.                       do. 

1,200,000 

10      do. 

do.     Tobacco  fund  debt 

9,700,000 

16  2-3  do. 

Interest  on  English  debt 

10      do. 

Garrison  fund 

98  2-3 

$18,550,000 

11-3  balance,  clear  of  lien,  for  the  govemmeut! 
100 


THE    CHURCH — ITS    WEALTH    AND   INFLUEWCE.  61 


The  foreign  debt  is  still  larger;  and  including  the  above,  the  entire  national 
responsibility,  as  it  existed  at  the  end  of  1842,  was  as  follows : 

Internal  debt       -             -  -             -  $18,-550,000 

Debt  to  English  creditors          -             -  60,000,000 

United  claims  and  interest,  say  -             *  2,400,000 

Copper  to  be  redeemed             -             -  2,000,000 

Claims  for  Hilazo               -  -             -  700,000 

Bustamente  loan                -  •             -  500,000 


$84,150,000 


CHAPTER   XI. 

THE  CHURC  H — I  TS  WEALTH  ANDINFLUENCE^ 

The  Roman  Catholic  is  the  religion  of  Mexico,  and  is  established  by  the 
constitution,  to  the  exclusion  of  all  others.  The  ecclesiastical  establishment 
consists  of  one  archbishop,  (that  of  Mexico,)  and  nine  bishoprics  ;  namely  those 
of  La  Puebla,  Guadalajara,  Valladolid,  Durango,  Monterey,  Oajaca,  Yucatan, 
Chiapa,  and  Sonora.  AH  of  these,  except  Sonora,  have  cathedral  churches  and 
chapters,  which,  with  the  collegiate  chapter  of  Guadaloupe,  (in  the  environs  of 
the  capital,)  contain  185  prebendaries  and  canonries,  formerly  in  the  gift  of  the 
king.  The  number  of  parishes  is  about  1200.  In  1S02,  the  nnmber  of  eccle- 
siastics in  the  country,  both  secular  and  regular,  was  estimated  at  10,000,  or  at 
13,000,  including  the  lay-brothers  of  convents,  and  other  subordinates  of  the 
church.  The  secular  clergy  was  composed  of  about  5000  priests  ;  the  regulars, 
wearing  the  habits  of  different  orders,  of  nearly  an  equal  number,  of  whom  2500 
resided  in  the  convents  of  the  capital  alone.  It  appears  from  reports  presented 
to  the  Mexican  congress  in  1826  and  1827,  by  the  minister  for  ecclesiastical 
affairs,  that  the  number  of  the  secular  clergy  in  1826,  was  estimated  at  3473, 
and  in  1827,  at  3677.  The  regular  clergy  was  divided  into  fourteen  provinces, 
possessing  150  convents,  which  contained  in  all,  1918  friars. 

The  following  table  shows  the  situation  and  number  of  convents,  and  other 
particulars,  derived  from  the  reports  of  the  Mexican  minister  : 


Situation  of  Convents. 


<-  <n  a  a  B         .3    .        > 

O     .  -3  "  ■■"   Si  T3   £  c 

■z6  ^.3         5::=  J         6.2       Z-S 


Dominicans — 

Mexico  10  123  15  8  6  2  18 

Puebla  6  42  4  4  —  2  — 

Oaxaca  5  50  13  11  2  9  — 

CiudadReal  4  44  7  7  —  9  — 

Franciscans — 

Mexico  34  532  116  64  20  2  33 

Queretaro  15  162  86  33  9  3  8 

Potosi  11  125  20  12  8  4  19 

Guadalajara  7  128  28  17  1  2  23 

Merida  1  61  —  —  —  3  -- 


THE    CHURCH — ITS   WEALTH   AND    INFLUENCE. 


Augustins — 

Mexico 

11 

143 

49 

18 

12 

2 

Salamanca 

11 

92 

34 

28 

4 

2 

Carmelites — 

Mexico 

16 

224 

50 

19 

11 

— 

Mercedarians — 

Mexico 

19 

192 

40 

26 

14 

— 

150   1918  462  247   87  40   101 

There  were  at  the  same  period  six  colleges  in  Mexico  for  the  propagation  of 
the  faith,  distributed  as  follows  : 


Number  of 

Number  of 

Where. 

Religious. 

'Misisiona. 

Mexico 

66 

21 

Upper  California. 

Queretaro 

56 

9 

Sonora. 

Pachuca 

42 

9 

Cohahuila  and  ) 
Tamaulipas.       ) 

Orizava 

35 

0 

Zacatecas 

83 

22 

Las  Tarahum-    ] 

Zapopan 

25 

0 

aras  and  Texas,  j 

307 


61 


The  salaries  of  the  bishops,  in  1802,  were  supposed  to  be  as  follows ; 


The  Archbishop  of  Mexico 
The  Bishop  of  Puebla     - 
Do.         Valladolid 


Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 

Guadalajara 
Durango 
Monterey- 
Yucatan 

Do. 

Oaxaca    - 

Do. 

Sonora 

Total, 


$130,000 

110,000 

100,000 

90,000 

35,000 

30,000 

20,000 

18,000 

6,000 

$439,000 


The  value  of  the  church  property  is  estimated  at  ninety  millions  of  dollars, 
according  to  the  annexed  valuation : — 


Real  property  in  town  and  country         -         -     S18,000,000 

Churches,  houses,  convents,  curates,  dwellings, 

(armiure,  jewek,  precious  vessels,  &c.  -         52,000,000 

Floating  capital — together  with  other  funds — 
and  the  capital  required  to  produce  the 
sum  received  by  them  annually  in  alms    -     20,000,000 

Total $90,000,000 

This  estimate,  large  as  it  is,  is  undoubtedly  too  small ;  no  one  pretends  to 
know  the  value  of  the  coin,  jewels,  and  ornaments,  belonging  to  the  various 
churches ;  which  have  been  accumulating  ever  since  the  establishment  of  the 
Catholic  religion ;  and  their  real  estate  is  constantly  increasing.  They  own 
very  many  of  the  finest  houses  in  Mexico  and  other  cities  (the  rents  of  which 


THE    CHURCH — ITS    WEALTH    AND    INFLUENCE.  63 

must  be  enormous),  besides  valuable  real  estates  all  over  tbe  Republic.  Almost 
every  person  leaves  a  bequest  in  his  will  for  masses  for  his  soul,  which  consti- 
tute an  incumbrance  upon  the  estate,  and  thus  nearly  all  the  estates  of  the  small 
proprietors  are  mortgaged  to  the  church.  The  property  held  by  the  church  in 
mortmain  is  estimated  at  fifty  millions. 

Mexico  is  the  only  country  where  the  church  property  remains  in  its  untouched 
entirety.  Some  small  amount  has  been  recently  realized  from  the  sale  of  the 
estates  of  the  banished  Jesuits  ;  but,  with  that  exception,  no  President,  however 
hard  pressed  (and  there  is  no  day  in  the  year  that  they  are  not  hard  pressed), 
has  ever  dared  to  encroach  upon  that  which  is  regarded  consecrated  property, 
with  the  exception  of  Gomez  Farrias,  who,  in  1834,  proposed  to  the  legislative 
chambers  to  confiscate  all  the  church  property,  and  the  measure  would,  no  doubt, 
have  been  adopted,  but  for  a  revolution  which  overthrew  the  administration. 

Mr.  Thompson  says  that  he  has  heard  intelligent  men  in  Mexico  express  the 
opinion  that  one-fourth  of  the  property  of  the  country  was  in  the  hands  of  the 
priesthood,  and  instead  of  diminishing,  it  is  constantly  increasing. 

That  the  reader  may  have  some  idea  of  the  magnificence  and  richness  of  the 
Mexican  churches,  we  will  transfer  to  our  pages,  the  Hon.  Waddy  Thompson's 
description  of  the  Cathedral  at  Mexico  : — 

"  The  Cathedral,  which  occupies  the  site  of  the  great  idol  temple  of  Monte- 
zuma, is  fr\'e  hundred  feet  long  by  four  hundred  and  twenty  wide.  Like  all  the 
other  churches  in  Mexico,  it  is  built  in  the  Gothic  style.  The  walls,  of  several 
feet  thickness,  are  made  of  unhewn  stone  and  lime.  Upon  entering  it,  one  is 
apt  to  recall  the  wild  fictions  of  the  Arabian  Nights ;  it  seems  as  if  the  wealth 
of  empires  was  collected  there.  The  clergy  in  Mexico  do  not,  for  obvious  rea- 
sons, desire  that  their  wealth  should  be  made  known  to  its  full  extent ;  they  are, 
therefore,  not  disposed  to  give  very  full  information  upon  the  subject,  or  to 
exhibit  the  gold  and  silver  vessels,  vases,  precious  stones,  and  other  forms  of 
wealth  ;  quite  enough  is  exhibited  to  strike  the  beholder  with  wonder.  The 
first  object  that  presents  itself  on  entering  the  cathedral  is  the  altar,  near  the 
centre  of  the  building  ;  it  is  made  of  highly-wrought  and  highly-polished  silver, 
and  covered  with  a  profusion  of  ornaments  of  pure  gold.  On  each  side  of  th:s 
altar  runs  a  balustrade,  enclosing  a  space  about  eight  feet  wide  and  eighty  or  a 
hundred  feet  long.  The  balusters  are  about  four  feet  high,  and  four  inches  thick 
in  the  largest  part ;  the  hand-rail  from  six  to  eight  inches  wide.  Upon  the  top 
of  this  hand-rail,  at  the  distance  of  six  or  eight  feet  apart,  are  human  images, 
beautifully  wrought,  and  about  two  feet  high.  All  of  these,  the  balustrade, 
hand-rail,  and  images,  are  made  of  a  compound  of  gold,  silver,  and  copper — more 
valuable  than  silver.  I  was  told  that  an  offer  had  been  made  to  take  this  balus- 
trade, and  replace  it  with  another  of  exactly  the  same  size  and  workmanship,  of 
pure  silver,  and  to  give  half  a  million  of  dollars  besides.  There  is  much  more 
of  the  same  balustrade  in  other  parts  of  the  church  ;  I  should  think,  in  all  of  it, 
not  less  than  three  hundred  feet. 

"  As  you  walk  through  the  building,  on  either  side  there  are  different  apart- 
ments, all  filled,  from  the  floor  to  the  ceiling,  with  paintings,  statues,  vases,  huge 
candlesticks,  waiters,  and  a  thousand  other  articles,  made  of  gold  or  silver.  This, 
too,  is  only  the  every  day  display  of  articles  of  least  value  ;  the  more  costly  are 
stowed  away  in  chests  and  closets.  What  must  it  be  when  all  these  are  brought 
out,  with  the  immense  quantities  of  precious  stones  which  the  church  is  known 
to  possess?  And  this  is  only  one  of  the  churches  of  the  city  of  Mexico,  where 
there  are  between  sixty  and  eighty  others,  and  some  of  them  possessing  little 
less  wealth  than  the  cathedral ;  and  it  must  also  be  remembered,  that  all  the 
other  large  cities,  such  as  Pupbla,  Guadalajara,  Guanajuato,  Zacatecas,  Durango, 
San  Louis  Potosi,  have  each  a  proportionate  number  of  equally  gorgeous  estab- 
lishments.    It  would  be  the  wildest  and  most  random  conjecture  to  attempt  an 


64  STATEOFEDUCATION. 

estimate  of  the  amount  of  the  precious  metals  thus  withdrawn  from  the  useful 
purposes  of  the  currency  of  the  world,  and  wasted  in  these  barbaric  ornaments, 
as  incompatible  wiih  good  taste  as  they  are  with  the  humility  which  was  the 
most  striking  feature  in  the  character  of  the  Founder  of  our  religion,  whose  cho- 
sen instruments  were  the  lowly  and  humble,  and  who  himself  regarded  as  the 
highest  evidence  of  his  divine  mission,  the  fact  that  "  to  the  poor  the  gospel  was 
preached."  I  do  not  doubt  but  there  is  enough  of  the  precious  metals  in  the 
different  churches  of  Mexico  to  relieve  sensibly  the  pressure  upon  the  currency 
of  the  world,  which  has  resulted  from  the  diminished  production  of  the  mines, 
and  the  increased  quantity  which  has  been  appropriated  to  purposes  of  luxury, 
and  to  pay  the  cost  of  much  more  tasteful  decorations  in  architecture  and  statu- 
ary, made  of  mahogany  and  marble." 


STATE     OF     EDUCATION. 

In  a  country  where  the  people  are  oppressed  by  a  military  and  religious  des- 
potism, we  are  not  to  look  for  a  very  high  standard  of  education.  It  is  estimated 
that  out  of  seven  millions  of  people  who  inhabit  Mexico,  only  687,748  are  able 
to  read  and  write,  and  of  these,  80,120  are  Negroes  and  Indians.  Education, 
which  should  receive  the  especial  care  of  Republican  governments,  is  least 
regarded  in  Mexico.  In  1S40,  $180,000  were  expended  for  hospitals,  fortresses, 
and  prisons — $8,000,000  for  the  army,  (without  a  foreign  war)  and  only  8110,000 
were  given  to  all  the  institutions  of  learning. 

In  the  city  of  Mexico,  there  are  four  collegiate  establishments,  one  being  under 
the  immediate  supervision  of  the  Archbishop,  and  supported  by  a  portion  of  the 
ecclesiastical  revenues,  and  the  other  three  are  under  the  care  of  the  Govern- 
ment. There  is  also  a  normal  school  supported  by  the  Government,  devoted  to 
the  instruction  of  the  soldiers  of  the  army  ;  improvement  in  this  school  is 
rewarded  by  advancement  in  rank.  The  city  is  also  divided  into  parishes,  in 
each  of  which  there  is  established  a  school  for  boys  and  another  for  girls,  sup- 
ported by  the  Town  Council.  In  the  former,  the  pupils  are  taught  to  read,  write  and 
calculate,  and  are  also  instructed  in  religious  and  political  catechisms.  The 
same  branches  are  taught  in  the  girls'  school,  and  in  addition  they  learn  sewing 
and  other  suitable  occupations.  The  instruction,  books  and  stationery  are  all 
furnished  without  charge.  There  is  also  a  Lancasterian  Company,  composed 
of  the  most  wealthy  and  educated  citizens  of  Mexico,  who  are  extending  their 
schools  all  over  the  Republic  ;  they  are  already  in  all  the  principal  cities,  towns, 
and  villages.  In  these  schools,  like  those  already  described  in  the  capital,  the 
pupils  are  taught  without  charge.  Schools  have  also  been  organized  in  the 
Prisons  and  House  of  Correction  for  juvenile  delinquents,  which  are  taught  by 
the  most  respectable  ladies  of  Mexico,  who  devote  a  portion  of  their  time  to  this 
very  benevolent  object.  Besides  all  these  establishments,  there  are,  in  the  city 
of  Mexico,  a  large  number  of  private  or  select  schools,  which  are  conducted  by 
foreigners  as  well  as  natives,  so  that  in  the  matter  of  education,  the  Mexicans 
are  making  great  advancement.  ,God  grant  that  they  inay  soon  realize  that 
important  truth — that  man  was  created  for  a  higher  and  a  nobler  purpose  tharj  to 
waste  his  energes  upon  the  battle-field. 


CONTENTS. 

Preface  -.--..--  -  -3 

CHAPTER   I— Physical  Features. 
Sources  of  Information — Boundaries — Extent  of  Surface — Natural  Divisions — The  Eastern 
Region — Anahuac — Ascent  to  the  Table-Lands — The  Table-Lands — Mountains     -     C — 10 

CHAPTER   II— Rivers— Lakes— Bays—  Gulfs. 
Rio   Grande    del    Norte — Rio    Sacramento — The   Colorado — Rio    Santiago — Rio   Panuco— 
Lakes— Bays  and  Gulfs— Gulfof  Mexico.  -  -  -  -  -       10—12 

CHAPTER  in— Civil  Divisions— Towns,  &fc. 
Yucatan — Tabasco — Chiapa — Oaxaca — Vera  Ciuz — Puebla — Tlascala — Mexico — The  Fed- 
eral District — The  Valley  of  Mexico — Description  of  the  City — The  Halls  of  the  Monte- 
zumas — Queretaro — Guanixuato — Michoatan — Colima — Xalisco — Zacatecas — San  Luis 
Potosi — Durango — New  Leon — Tamaulipas — Cohahuila — Chihuahua — New  Mexico — 
Occidente         ..--.----  12—24 

CHAPTER   IV — Climate — Soil — Vegetable  Productions — Animals. 
Climate — Soil  and  Vegetable  Productions — The  Banana — Indian  Corn — Wheat — Potatoes — 
Other  Vegetables — Sugar — Cotton — CofTee — Chocolate — Tobacco,    &c. — Animals — Birds 
—Insects— Fisheriea  .......  24—28 

CHAPTER  V — Agriculture — Manufactures — Commerce 
Agriculture — Mexican    Plough — Manufaf  tures — Statistics  of  Manufactures — Commerce — 
Commerce  of  the  difTerent  Ports — Santa  Fe  Trade  ....     28 — 34 

CHAPTER  Yl— Mines  and  Minerals. 

Mines    of    Guanaxuato — Zacatecas — Catorce — Pachuca — Biscaina — Zimapan — Durango — 

Gold  Mines — Inferior  Minerals — Mining  Companies — Method  of  working  the  Mines 

34—40 
CHAPTER   YU— Roads— Travelled  Routes— Modes  of  Travelling. 

Vera  Cruz  to  Mexico — Tampico  to  Mexico — Texas  to  Mexico — Independence,  (Missouri), 
to  Santa  Fe — Acapulco  to  Mexico      ......  41 — 43 

CHAPTER  Y III— Inhabitants,  Population,   and  Government  of  Mexico. 
Inhabitants — Population — Government         ......    49 — 53 

CHAPTER   IX— The  Army  and  J^avy. 
The  Army— The  Navy     ^        ......  .  54—58 

CHAPTER  X — Revenue — Resources — Expenditures — Public  Debt. 
Revenue — Resources — Expenses  of  the  Government— Public  Debt  -  -     58 — 61 

I,     CHAPTER  XI— The  Church— Its   Wealth  and  Influence— State  of  Education. 
The  Church— Its  Wealth  and  Influence— State  of  Education  -  -  61 — 64 


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